Bespoke v. OTR armholes

[itsstillmatt]

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[Get Smart]

is this coming back..? sounds like an interesting discussion

 

[Jovan]

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[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Jovan

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Wow, a comedian

OK, so I was wasting time with a tape measure and some coats of mine this early evening, and I discovered some differences between the armholes of my bespoke suits and those of some very high end RTW also made in Naples. These particular RTW are characterized by a very high armhole. What I noticed was that while the overall dimensions were very similar +/- 1 cm, the distribution of te size was quite a bit different. On the RTW suits, the armhole was rather large in front, but tiny in back, while on the bespoke ones the armhole was very small in front and slightly roomier in back. My feeling is that the bespoke version is more useful as you get the attractiveness of a small armhole and the good features of one with the extra movement from the ease in the rear. I am interested to hear other experiences/thoughts including the differences between a rather round armhole (Italy) and a more trangularly shaped one (English).

 

[horton]

I haven't really thought about it at the sleeve head. Very interesting observations.

I do like a tapered sleeve though. And bespoke, I believe, always does this better though really nice OTR can do a fine job too.

 

[Jovan]

Thankfully there are more and more decent OTR jackets and suits made with smaller armholes nowadays. Banana Republic, some of Express' stuff, and Thom Browne come to mind.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by iammatt

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Where has the content gone from this interesting debate.