Bespoke suits London - where to go next?

[Winot]

For some time now I have been buying bespoke suits from Graham Browne in the City of London, and as I have posted elsewhere I am very happy with the PQR of these. However I am now thinking of stepping up a level to Savile Row quality, and would appreciate your thoughts on (a) the gaps in my wardrobe and (b) where to go to fill these gaps.

I presently have the following work suits. I am a patent agent which although a legal profession doesn't require the same level of conservative formality as e.g. a City solicitor or investment banker.

Summer suits

French blue wool/mohair 2B SB (Graham Browne) - soon to commission a matching DB jacket
Grey windowpane 3B SB (Hackett)
Light brown windowpane 3B SB (Hackett)

Three season suits

Grey fresco 3B SB peak lapel (Graham Browne)
Brown fresco pinstripe 2B SB peak lapel (Graham Browne)
Charcoal grey sharkskin 1B SB peak lapel with DB waistcoat (Graham Browne)
Charcoal grey nailhead B SB (Adrian)

Winter suits

Light blue birdseye 3B SB peak lapel with SB waistcoat (Graham Browne)
Grey/brown herringbone/windowpane 6x2 DB (Graham Browne)

Suits on their way out

Grey birdseye 3B SB (Roderick Charles)
Blue pinstripe 3B SB (Roderick Charles)
Grey/blue pinstripe 3B SB (Andrew's Tailors)

I have been thinking that the next suit should be a winter suit and I am tempted by a grey flannel chalkstripe. I also think I am lacking a dark blue or navy suit and wonder about getting something lightweight for next summer, probablt 3B SB notch.

Now - where to get them. I suspect my Graham Browne suits are moderately drapey in style and it seems logical to try one suit from either end of the scale to see what I like. I wondered therefore about getting one suit from Steven Hitchcock and one from Dege & Skinner.

My thinking as to Steven Hitchcock was that I'd like to try the soft tailoring approach but would rather not pay A&S prices. He is also young and so will be around for a good while (I hope) if I like his stuff. However from looking at his blog the SB jackets look to have quite closed quarters (in common with the A&S cut?) and I'm not a fan of this. I am tempted therefore to commission a DB suit from him. However part of me thinks I shouldn't start a relationship with a tailor if I do't like their SB suits! So you can see I am all confused - any advice?

As far as the military cut is concerned, my thinking was influenced by this post of Scott's in which the Dege jacket looks fantastic. However I am open to suggestions.

Another issue is that I really like the Italian look shown in the first photo here - but realistically I am unlikely to get to Italy to commission suits and I'm not sure I can stomach Rubinacci prices in London.

Over to you...

Confused of London.

 

[Concordia]

Hitchcock can cut away the quarters a bit if that's what you really want. His are much less close than some other tailors', e.g., Kilgour.

Whether his DB suits you will depend a bit on your build and the decisions you make up front with him.

 

[Frog in Suit]

If looking for a military cut, why not try Jones Chalk & Dawson (aka Meyer & Mortimer, or Ward & Kruger)? They are military tailors, I am sure less expensive than Dege, in fact full-fledged Savile Row, but at the lower end of the price spectrum. They are large enough, and my cutter, Mr. Munday is young enough, that they should be around for quite a while as well.

Of course, they can cut DB as well as SB, and are quite flexible if you have any particular requests. They are at 6 Sackville Street.

I write only as a satisfied customer (three DB suits, with two more orders on the way).

Frog in Suit

 

[Winot]

Originally Posted by Frog in Suit

If looking for a military cut, why not try Jones Chalk & Dawson (aka Meyer & Mortimer, or Ward & Kruger)? They are military tailors, I am sure less expensive than Dege, in fact full-fledged Savile Row, but at the lower end of the price spectrum. They are large enough, and my cutter, Mr. Munday is young enough, that they should be around for quite a while as well.

Of course, they can cut DB as well as SB, and are quite flexible if you have any particular requests. They are at 6 Sackville Street.

I write only as a satisfied customer (three DB suits, with two more orders on the way).

Frog in Suit

Thanks for the suggestion - I'll check them out (particularly as I see from other threads that Dege have lost some key personnel to Davies recently).

 

[palladio211]

What do you mean by "closed quarters"?

I have several A&S suits and a few jackets by Huntsman. The look is quite different obviously. The military tailored look is very spiffy, but it's hard to beat the A&S for sheer comfort. I have better looking bespoke suits than A&S, but none more comfortable.

I'd be curious to try Mr. Hitchcock as well, if he is doing the A&S style for less money. Is he a relative of the Mr. Hitchcock from A&S who did some of my fittings years ago?

I'm about due to order another suit from A&S, but I'm afraid to see what it would cost given the current exchange rate for the dollar.

 

[Winot]

Some progress on the projects mentioned above:

I paid Connock & Lockie a visit today to order three more shirts and a sports jacket. The jacket is going to be a SB 3B rolled to 2 with notch lapels, an action back (vertical inverted pleat with half belt) and patch pockets with vertical inverted pleats. I chose a 14oz Porter & Harding tweed - a beautiful dark green herringbone/barleycorn with a red overcheck.

I have also ordered 5m of Rangoon 0121 (blue pin dot) from Minnis for a suit for next summer (Rangoon cloth is on sale at £16+VAT/m while stocks last).

Finally, I still plan on visiting Steven Hitchcock to order a winter DB suit.

 

[andreyb2]

Originally Posted by palladio211

I'd be curious to try Mr. Hitchcock as well, if he is doing the A&S style for less money. Is he a relative of the Mr. Hitchcock from A&S who did some of my fittings years ago?
There are two Hitchcocks -- father and son. Father (John) is currently MD of A&S. Son (Steven) runs his own tailoring business. A few years ago Steven worked for A&S -- thus, either he or his father measured you.

Andrey

 

[Concordia]

Originally Posted by andreyb2

There are two Hitchcocks -- father and son. Father (John) is currently MD of A&S. Son (Steven) runs his own tailoring business. A few years ago Steven worked for A&S -- thus, either he or his father measured you.

Andrey


I don't think Steven would have been working the front room at A&S. He did the full apprenticeship but cut out on his own pretty soon after. Even now nearly 10 years later, he's only just past 30.

 

[Loudly]

Boldly resurrecting this post. Has anyone used Connock & Lockie or Sims & Macdonald recently? And does anyone care to share pictures?

I've been in the MTM camp for a while (in the price range of Sims bespoke), and am thinking of moving to full bespoke. I am tossed up on spending a lot of money at Meyer & Mortimer for what will no doubt be top notch work, or going with one of the above as a toe in the water and/or potential better value for money.

I am looking for a more "military" than soft cut.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on this.

Originally Posted by Winot

Some progress on the projects mentioned above:

I paid Connock & Lockie a visit today to order three more shirts and a sports jacket. The jacket is going to be a SB 3B rolled to 2 with notch lapels, an action back (vertical inverted pleat with half belt) and patch pockets with vertical inverted pleats. I chose a 14oz Porter & Harding tweed - a beautiful dark green herringbone/barleycorn with a red overcheck.

I have also ordered 5m of Rangoon 0121 (blue pin dot) from Minnis for a suit for next summer (Rangoon cloth is on sale at £16+VAT/m while stocks last).

Finally, I still plan on visiting Steven Hitchcock to order a winter DB suit.

 

[Frog in Suit]

Originally Posted by Loudly

Boldly resurrecting this post. Has anyone used Connock & Lockie or Sims & Macdonald recently? And does anyone care to share pictures?

I've been in the MTM camp for a while (in the price range of Sims bespoke), and am thinking of moving to full bespoke. I am tossed up on spending a lot of money at Meyer & Mortimer for what will no doubt be top notch work, or going with one of the above as a toe in the water and/or potential better value for money.

I am looking for a more "military" than soft cut.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on this.

FWIW, I am still happy with Meyer & Mortimer, having had five suits (3DB, 2 SB three-piece) plus a navy "blazer" and grey trousers made by them since May 2007.
I have no direct knowledge of the two other firms you mention; I do not think they offer a military cut, however.

Frog in Suit

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by palladio211

I'd be curious to try Mr. Hitchcock as well, if he is doing the A&S style for less money. Is he a relative of the Mr. Hitchcock from A&S who did some of my fittings years ago?

I'm .

Father and son (Stephen)

 

[jamesbond]

The quarters on that Huntsman 1btn are devine! The R.A. has nicely cut quarters too but more structured shoulders. Then again i guess thats what you get when you pay top dollar on the row.

 

[Winot]

Originally Posted by Loudly

Boldly resurrecting this post. Has anyone used Connock & Lockie or Sims & Macdonald recently? And does anyone care to share pictures?

I've been in the MTM camp for a while (in the price range of Sims bespoke), and am thinking of moving to full bespoke. I am tossed up on spending a lot of money at Meyer & Mortimer for what will no doubt be top notch work, or going with one of the above as a toe in the water and/or potential better value for money.

I am looking for a more "military" than soft cut.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on this.

Loudly - thank you for reminding me that I hadn't updated this thread (apologies). Here is the precis:

Connock & Lockie - the sports jacket is a superb piece of work - probably my favourite and most successful bespoke item to date. It is quite soft and drapey in construction. Only downside (and the thing that would stop me ordering from C&L again) is that it was ordered in late July 2008 and not ready until early March 2009, when I had asked for it to be ready by Christmas.

Steven Hitchcock has also made me a DB winter flannel suit which I have posted about on the A&S ex-pats thread and which has attracted brickbats and bouquets (both deserved). However Steven saw that thread and contacted me to fix the problems (I would of course have contacted him anyway). By coincidence I am seeing him tomorrow.

Finally, Meyer & Mortimer has made me a beautiful 3 piece SB in a blue herringbone (Smiths). Again, a very good piece of work - Paul Munday nailed my rounded back and dropped shoulder on his first attempt. Very different to C&L - a much leaner suit which I have decided I prefer for business (I would go back to Steven Hitchcock for sports jackets). I will be back soon to order a summer two piece in a Minnis Airborne multistripe I bought in the sale.

Hope that helps.

 

[TheWraith]

My question is...if you're very happy with Graham Browne, why leave/change? If you find a tailor you're happy with, stick with him for goodness sake.

 

[Frog in Suit]

Originally Posted by TheWraith

My question is...if you're very happy with Graham Browne, why leave/change? If you find a tailor you're happy with, stick with him for goodness sake.

If I understand correctly, the OP has already reached that decision: he wants to "step up" to SR bespoke quality.

Frog in Suit