Bespoke balance study: lapel width

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Some time this weekend I will try to take clearer photos of the lapels--at the very least, I'll take some measurements!

It's only the Donegal that I find problematical.

Just so that I am clear: since you noted that the cut among the SB jackets is the same, then we already start with the assumption that the physical width of the lapels are the same. There is then, no disparity in width and a tape measure will not tell you much.

What differs in the photographs is how the lapels stand on the chest, which if other aspect of the cut are duplicated, is only a function of the point to which the lapel rolls.

If you roll all your SB jackets to the button, they will look the same. If you roll one to one point, and the other to another, then they will not...and that is what the comparison photograph below shows...what it shows is not, to my eye, dependent on photographic quality:

It's quite evident that the lapel on the lower right lies wider than the one on the lower left. That could be the result of cut...but we have exluded that. So it is the roll, which can be a function of differing padding, different fabric, and differences in how the jackets were ironed or otherwise formed.

So, I have no doubts that the jackets can be made to look more similar, since they are by cut, but will it be more like the Donegal or more like the other tweed? I would prefer the latter for myself. The jacket on the lower left hits mid-chest, the one on the lower right goes well past.

- B

 

[texas_jack]

in before the lock

 

[whnay.]

A lot of this is splitting hairs. A few comments.

1) With the exception of the donegal, which I agree has lapels that are slightly wider than I would prefer, Foo's garments are very well done.

2) In my opinion, Foo would benefit from a 2 or 2.5 button front on his coats. His fabric choices, however, are superb.

3) Matt's coats and suits set the bar for LH and SF. He also is a long standing client with numerous garments to his name. This counts for something.

4) It takes a lot of balls to post full length pics of yourself on places like SF and for that Foo should be commended. At the very least, it elevates the conversation around here especially when at times this place can be downright dismal and uninspired.

 

[SirSuturesALot]

Vox - Are you saying that the harder the lapel rolls down toward the button, the wider the lapel appears?

 

[dopey]

I love this thread. Perspective is good. I feel sane and practically cavalier, now.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by whnay.

A lot of this is splitting hairs. A few comments.

1) With the exception of the donegal, which I agree has lapels that are slightly wider than I would prefer, Foo's garments are very well done.

I like them too, but I hope that the other SBs do not chase the Donegal to the edge of the chest, which they will if the cut is the same and the jacket is pressed to go straight to the button like the Donegal...and like the other Rubinacci jackets that iammatt referenced.

Originally Posted by whnay.

2) In my opinion, Foo would benefit from a 2 or 2.5 button front on his coats. His fabric choices, however, are superb.

I like his single button, and does MR let you pick a less than superb fabric?

Originally Posted by whnay.

3) Matt's coats and suits set the bar for LH and SF. He also is a long standing client with numerous garments to his name. This counts for something.

I could be remembering this inaccurately, but I seem to recall left coast Matt saying that while there was a bit of evolution in the cut of his jackets, generally speaking, the fit is consistent from early to recent. I find this to be true for myself as well.

It is interesting to me, at least, to ask why, if you agree that iammatt's stuff sets the bar, that is so. Since other Rubinacci jackets are not met so well, why is that? This lapel thing about mafoofan's Donegal is just a way to explore that.

Originally Posted by whnay.

4) It takes a lot of balls to post full length pics of yourself on places like SF and for that Foo should be commended. At the very least, it elevates the conversation around here especially when at times this place can be downright dismal and uninspired.

It does, and I do, and thus, the conversation.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by SirSuturesALot

Vox - Are you saying that the harder the lapel rolls down toward the button, the wider the lapel appears?

To say it more accurately, the lower the roll, and the less actual roll in the lapel, the wider the lapel will be on the chest.

You can play around with this carefully with an iron. I repeat, carefully.

- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by dopey

I love this thread. Perspective is good. I feel sane and practically cavalier, now.

I expected you to weigh in, and now you have.


- B

 

[dopey]

I weary of your traps for the unwary.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by dopey

I weary of your traps for the unwary.

Hah!

What's your favorite mid-gray woolen flannel again?


- B

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I like his single button, and does MR let you pick a less than superb fabric?
Let's just put it this way, I'd be curious to his and SF's reaction if he went the route I proposed.

I could be remembering this inaccurately, but I seem to recall left coast Matt saying that while there was a bit of evolution in the cut of his jackets, generally speaking, the fit is consistent from early to recent. I find this to be true for myself as well.

It is interesting to me, at least, to ask why, if you agree that iammatt's stuff sets the bar, that is so. Since other Rubinacci jackets are not met so well, why is that? This lapel thing about mafoofan's Donegal is just a way to explore that.

My exceptions with Foo's garments are not related to fit but rather stylistic choices (wider lapel, one button closure, higher notch). The comments related to sleeve width and waist suppression seem overtly critical. On balance, I like Matt's style choices and I think, generally speaking, the forum would agree. I liked them so much in fact that I told MR to mirror the choices for my own garments taking cues from MR along the way (ie - more of a roped shoulder, etc.).

 

[binge]

Originally Posted by whnay.

The comments related to sleeve width and waist suppression seem overtly critical.

I shall try to keep my criticism more covert then.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Hah!

What's your favorite mid-gray woolen flannel again?


- B
If you mean the color I liked best, I chose the Harrisons 39029 ( a woolen flannel 400gms).
The other distributors had almost identical colors in their books in that weight and my choice of Harrisons was pretty arbitrary.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by dopey

If you mean the color I liked best, I chose the Harrisons 39029 ( a woolen flannel 400gms).
The other distributors had almost identical colors in their books in that weight and my choice of Harrisons was pretty arbitrary.

Thank you.

- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Let's just put it this way, I'd be curious to his and SF's reaction if he went the route I proposed.

I bet it look great...no reason not to have both. You mean a 3 to 2.5 or 2, right, not a two button? I can't support a two button bespoke jacket unless you're going for a paddock over/under close (i.e, cut for both buttons to be buttoned).

Originally Posted by whnay.

My exceptions with Foo's garments are not related to fit but rather stylistic choices (wider lapel, one button closure, higher notch). The comments related to sleeve width and waist suppression seem overtly critical. On balance, I like Matt's style choices and I think, generally speaking, the forum would agree. I liked them so much in fact that I told MR to mirror the choices for my own garments taking cues from MR along the way (ie - more of a roped shoulder, etc.).

iammatt was doing well until the chest hair came out.


- B