Bespoke balance study: lapel width

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by binge

I shall try to keep my criticism more covert then.

Keep your stinkin' sleeve fullness and waist suppression comments out of my lapel thread.


- B

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I bet it look great...no reason not to have both. You mean a 3 to 2.5 or 2, right, not a two button? I can't support a two button bespoke jacket unless you're going for a paddock over/under close (i.e, cut for both buttons to be buttoned).



iammatt was doing well until the chest hair came out.


- B

Wait a minute, I thought that was a wool tie from the 70s?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Wait a minute, I thought that was a wool tie from the 70s?

I hope that he sleeps face up. Face down, there could be irreversible felting.


- B

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Hah! You are a good sport, my friend.

- B

Well, you did call me dapper.*

* Yes, yes, I know, "But Iammatt is the dapperest and has a regular body and a regular head."

 

[Fuuma]

I'll instantly side with anyone who fights what you guys call "normalization", for some reason I think Schutzstaffel or 1984 when I read that talk. I know you guys think classicism but I can't stop my mind from free-associating.

With that being said your body and demeanour have to somehow click with what you're wearing. Matt will never look youthful or sleek but he can definitely be sleazy (I mean that in the nicest way) or stately. Looking at whnay's picture I couldn't help thinking I'd trust that guy with my money but would expect him to go to sleep at ten. Mafoo has a youthful and, for a lack of better word, "cute" air about him that IMHO goes awful with his sunglasses but great with something stylized like the DB; he does studied elegance well and I'm sure his fiancÃ

e agrees. You wouldn't be surprised to hear him discuss the intricacies of pocket square folding and I think he can use that to his advantage in aiming for eccentric cuts.

Just a few jumbled thoughts that focus on something beside button stance.

 

[TheFoo]

My lapels are off-kilter. Bill started a thread to discuss my off-kilter lapels. Fuuma thinks I'm cute.

All in all, an upsetting and disconcerting day on SF for mafoofan.

 

[Wes Bourne]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I'd like to point out that I suffer the distinct disadvantage of having my head plainly attached to my body--and in my case, the disadvantage is not a small one.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Hah! You are a good sport, my friend.

****, mafoofan, you get my vote for sportsman of the year for that statement! For the rest, while I think voxsartoria is probably on to something (alright, I didn't read the whole theory), I'll just say I find mafoofan looks pretty good here, where the proportions are best:

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Mafoofan: SB tweed

I find the other suits/pics are rather unflattering. I subscribe to the notion that a suit should highlight your best attributes and hide less desirable features; this should be all the more true when you've gone through the trouble and considerable expense of bespoke.

As for the pics, I applaud mafoofan for having the balls to post them for public scrutiny though I must say mafoofan, you don't look very at ease posing for pics (neither am I). As such, I rarely `pose`, though I always enjoy pictures that were snapped while I was unaware, or at least not looking. Looking comfortable/at ease goes a long way in making one look good, the cut and make of the suit is just a (small) part of the equation.

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

3. The balance of the lapel to shoulder on mafoofan in the upper right in the DB is also correct for me...I expect and want fuller lapels on DB jackets for myself, and I expect a peaked lapel to extend closer to the shoulder than a notch lapel on the same man.

Thoughts on PL width on SB vs. DB? I have some pictures to post when I get home tonight that seem to be contrary to this accepted wisdom.

--Andre

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

All in all, an upsetting and disconcerting day on SF for mafoofan.

Since you exhibit style, generosity, and good humor, you have no reason to be disconcerted.

You know, if my theory turns out to have merit, and you end up sharing the preference of bringing your lapels in a little on the Donegal jacket to where it is on the other tweed jacket, it's just five minutes with a iron, a mister, and a press cloth.

If you don't share it, just wear the Donegal as is. It will still rock as a whole.


- B

 

[vitaminc]

Just adding mfan's first jacket for more comparisons.

Even though mfan insisted that his jackets are cut the same, i honestly don't think the lapels have the same width (when worn) or cut the same way. The differences are especially apparent if you pay attention to how jacket lapels covering the chest pockets.

MFan's second jacket is a hit, his db suit is a hit. But the first jacket and the donegal jacket are both well tailored tragedies, imo.

 

[tailor made or naked]

It is all in the eye of the beholder. I think the beauty of having cloth cut and assembled in the requested way to please the owner is the most important aspect. Others are entitled to their opinions but if one is pleased and comfortable with the final product, why study, let's be happy. We all have different physical appearances and opinions, what a great world.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Andre Yew

Thoughts on PL width on SB vs. DB? I have some pictures to post when I get home tonight that seem to be contrary to this accepted wisdom.

--Andre

I'm sure that there are exceptions, but in general (not always), the accepted wisdom is accepted and wise.

If we keep things to the same maker under discussion, here is iammatt...DB dinner jacket on the left, SB odd jacket on the right (I had to process the contrast on the dinner jacket quite a bit to bring out the lapel line from a very dark photograph):

Again, the comparison is not pixel perfect, so one's eye should be on the percentage of width of the chest real estate that is lapel and the percentage that is not. I think you can easily see that the peaked DB lapel is wider...even though it is dropping to a more acute buttoning point that is beyond the centerline of the torso, where the SB drops to the centerline, which is relatively fattening (to the lapel, that is).

Would there be a reason for the two proportions to converge on a smaller frame? Maybe, but I would prefer not. I particular, I see no reason for an SB notch lapel to get closer to the edge of the chest than a DB peaked lapel.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by vitaminc

MFan's second jacket is a hit, his db suit is a hit. But the first jacket and the donegal jacket are both well tailored tragedies, imo.

I don't agree with that at all. Here is different and later shot of mafoofan's first jacket:

It looks debonair to me. I had some concerns about the collar when he first got it, and I don't know if this later shot reflects an adjustment for that or not, since we only see the front, but the jacket looks phenomenal. And it makes him look splendid.

Given the expertise and quality at Rubinacci, and since there wasn't a change to the pattern, I do not think that a variance in cut is what we are seeing in the lapels.

Maybe one could argue that with different fabrics, the cut should be adapted more. But I honestly think just a little bit of ironing would take care of what I am noting about the Donegal jacket.

- B

 

[binge]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

My lapels are off-kilter. Bill started a thread to discuss my off-kilter lapels. Fuuma thinks I'm cute.

All in all, an upsetting and disconcerting day on SF for mafoofan.

I offer you this in comfort

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by tailor made or naked

It is all in the eye of the beholder. I think the beauty of having cloth cut and assembled in the requested way to please the owner is the most important aspect. Others are entitled to their opinions but if one is pleased and comfortable with the final product, why study, let's be happy. We all have different physical appearances and opinions, what a great world.

That is both true and yet incomplete.

- B