Bangkok tailors

[Kiwi Man]

Hello guys,

As a local here in Bangkok, I have not done a single thing to contribute, so here are the pictures of the shirt and a pair of pants done at Savile Row fashion located at Silom. Please be informed that I went to this place because I have done a research and it was one of the highly recommended places and if you know your fabric, I was told that they have the fabric that was used by famous brands such as Dunhill, Hugo Boss, or Burberry.

More importantly, I am that guy who wants to look good in the tailored clothes, so I had to rely heavily on these tailor advice. In the other word, I know a little to nothing when it comes to the quality men clothing tailoring.


Pants.

Shirt

Lastly, you're welcome, HALIFAX!

 

[Halifax]

KM, haha! You finally bowed to peer pressure.

I still can't tell if the stitching is single or double needle but it looks quite fine (18-20 per inch). The seams don't have any noticeable puckering so that's good. I don't think there is any handwork; the buttons seem to be machine cross-stitched but I can't be definitive from the resolution of the pics. Buttonholes are definitely made by machine. Is there a gusset or tack at the bottom of the side seam?

No lining on the back of the trousers, perhaps problematic?

How much was the cost per item?

Cheers KM

 

[Kiwi Man]

Hello,

How can I take a photo in the way that it shows if it is single or double stitch.

I got it done quite cheaply. I believe I paid about THB 3,800 for one pair of pants and two shirts.

For that price, I can only get one shirt done at Tanika!

 

[Halifax]

KM,

Looking at the right (outward facing) side of the shirt's side seam, you should see either one or two rows of stitches. Then looking at the wrong (inside facing) side of the shirt's side seam, again you should see either one or two rows of stitches. If two rows of stitches are visible on both side then this is double needle stitched; if there is only one row of stitches visible on either side, then this is most likely single needle stitched. Single needle stitching requires more time to complete than double needle (by a factor of 2.5-3.5 I'd estimate).

The type of stitch is also useful to note. Typically double needle is chain stitched and single needle is lock stitched, but this is not universally true.

Assuming that the shirt is standard double/single needle stitched (which Tanika's isn't), take a photo of the internal side seam. There will be two rows of stitches visible. If each row of stitches shows a single thread looping in and out then it is mostly likely lock stitched (preferable for reduced puckering I think). Alternatively, if each row of stitches appears to be braided (two threads looping in and out whilst crossing each other), then this is most likely chain stitched.

The interlining within the collar and cuff also has an influence on quality. Does it feel stiff (lower quality) or can you barely tell there's a piece of fabric between the shell fabric, apart from the obvious thickness. There seems to be a little crinkling of the collar, which is undesirable. The Rajawongse shirt that I had made used a very stiff interlining that suffered horrible corrugation after being washed.

The value of Tanika's shirts comes from the hand sews buttons. I think Alex Kabbaz stated somewhere that it takes 15 minutes for a layman to attached each button by hand, though I have never tried.

Cheers,
HPH

 

[jweiht]

Made me 2 shirts at Milan and collected in 48hrs.

The green one is 1200baht and the white is 1800baht

















Overall, I like the fit better than Tanika, but the handiwork and quality if fabric at Tanika is better. Will post pics of Tanika shirt later.

 

[Svenn]

^ is the Aloft still holding up well?

 

[jweiht]

Was staying at the Continent Hotel, not Aloft

 

[Svenn]

Finding a hotel in Bkkk that can stand up to the climate is as hard as finding a good tailor I tend to look for smaller, newer ones on side sois that have only been open a few months, anything older than that tends to get moldy.

Narins shirts were pretty awful for me, fused , bubbling collars, lots of shrinking, loose threads. Tailor on Ten was pretty good though, on par with WW chan. If only TOT did CMT!

 

[Halifax]

The fit of Milan's shirt looks good JW. I agree with you about the Tanika fit; they really like putting as much drape as possible into their shirts. This could perhaps be a comment about the preferential style of their typical clientele, or Tani's training (although I thought Italians would teach her tighter fits). You should ask Tanika if they can do non-fused collars, MoP/horn collar stays, and hand stitched button holes.

I also feel that once you get the fit right with one cutter/tailor, you should ask them to make a bunch of shirts out of muslin. Although, they would most likely reject this request because its obvious what you're going to do. If they are willing though, then you can take it to the tailor who makes the best constructed shirt and ask them to make a matching pattern. As Svenn mentioned, the final goal would be convincing them to accept CMT.

Speaking of which, any luck with Tanika regarding CMT JW? Did you speak with Tani? They emailed me saying that will be receiving new shirting books in the next week or two. Did they mention anything about the fabrics to you?

In terms of accommodation, I've found Centerpoint Silom and Muse agreeable. Kiwiman is the expert when it comes to accommodation in Bangkok. He mentioned checking out this website next time I visit.

On another note, has anyone tried using a Bangkok jeweler to source cuff links, shirt studs or silver collar stays?

 

[The Nino]



Finding a hotel in Bkkk that can stand up to the climate is as hard as finding a good tailor I tend to look for smaller, newer ones on side sois that have only been open a few months, anything older than that tends to get moldy.

Narins shirts were pretty awful for me, fused , bubbling collars, lots of shrinking, loose threads. Tailor on Ten was pretty good though, on par with WW chan. If only TOT did CMT!

Have you ever stayed at The Sukothai? One of the nicest hotels I've ever stayed at.

 

[jweiht]

Pants from Tanika was really nice. I was impressed but it was pretty expensive, 8400baht for VBC.














Better than the ones from Narin.

 

[jweiht]

I was pretty bz this week in Bkk with work, and only went in and out of the shop for fittings. Did not get a chance to talk about CMT with them, and did not meet Tani except the local thai tailor and the matriarch of the shop.

I wore the Milan shirt there on the last day, and they finally relented to correct the armholes for me to make it less "baggy".

The jacket was a little disappointing, as I felt we still didnt get it right but it can't be corrected as it's the cut. They did rush a little so that I can bring the suit back, but in doing so affected the quality. Maybe they didnt want to spend the money to ship it? Will post some pictures later.

 

[Halifax]

Pants from Tanika was really nice. I was impressed but it was pretty expensive, 8400baht for VBC.














Better than the ones from Narin.

Tanika gave you picked stitching on the pocket edges and outseam - I missed out, damn! It seems like they gave you machine made buttonholes on the trouser?

How fine did you go with the VBC fabric? I think my 130s VBC trousers and waistcoat came up at ~ THB 14,000.

Also ... pink lining!

 

[Svenn]

Tanika was firm with me no CMT a couple years ago, even though I showed up with the cloth in hand and offered to pay extra.

Narin is the only CMT I know of in bkk re legit tailors; Honestly it's so stupid... do they really think we will refuse to pay for our products if the cmt cloth breaks? Do they fear not getting their commission on imported cloth? I can't think of any other legit explanation other than brute inane stubbornness. Us CMT folks aren't customers worth turning away.

 

[Halifax]

Tanika was firm with me no CMT a couple years ago, even though I showed up with the cloth in hand and offered to pay extra.

Narin is the only CMT I know of in bkk re legit tailors; Honestly it's so stupid... do they really think we will refuse to pay for our products if the cmt cloth breaks? Do they fear not getting their commission on imported cloth? I can't think of any other legit explanation other than brute inane stubbornness. Us CMT folks aren't customers worth turning away.

I've been lead to believe that the margins are in the cloth sales, which would explain their aversion to CMT.