Australian Members

[blahman]

^^ Dormeuil are some pricey fabrics there though... I know Sarti Tailor has a bit of them.

 

[fxh]

Originally Posted by blahman

^^ Dormeuil are some pricey fabrics there though... I know Sarti Tailor has a bit of them.

yes sarti in lonsdale has a huge heap of books on a table

 

[Prof. B. Bear]

Originally Posted by fxh

As blah said its probably Dormeuil http://www.dormeuil.com/cloth/en/

Nothing wrong with it at all - but there are wider ranges around

Where are you - Melbourne?

Its pretty easy to find fabric books of cloth to look at.

In the wastelands of Adelaide. Should I just stick with 100% wool and find a shade of Navy I like or go for a blend?

 

[fxh]

Originally Posted by blahman

pharmaboy: Also, non-wool suits (and I don't mean poly suits) seem to be largely ignored by most Australians. And considering that Australia isn't really THAT cold (relative to other parts of the world that is - but daaaamn it's freezing today) you can probably find a cotton suit that you can wear from Spring to end of Autumn for cheap from outlets.


I agree about cotton or linen suits - however it is very hard to find half decent cotton or linen suits.

They do suffer from the problem of creasing - linen especially so - and you do need to be able to carry it off.

As far as feeling hot goes - the modern light wool suits especially with a buggy lining are as cool to wear. And wool always hangs better. I'm told Fresco is good - but I have no experience - I think meister does.

However nothing says SUMMER more than a cotton or linen jacket or pants. And sometimes its how it seems /appears to be and the message it sends that counts a lot for me.

 

[Prince of Paisley]

Originally Posted by Prof. B. Bear

Alright guys need a few questions answered about MTM and fabrics. I am able to get MTM shirts made from a local tailor for $280, with discounts given on orders >3. They're a very well respected establishment but have only recently expanded into MTM shirts. Is $280 a reasonable amount? I have not found ONE shirt which fits in at the collar, through the body and at the sleeves. I usually have to go 2-3 sizes up in order to find something which fits in the sleeves and I'm not too sure what can be done about 2-3cms of extra material around the collar. Secondly, I'm wanting to get a navy reefer jacket made. At the present time I can't afford P. Johnson and will only be able to go in for a fitting this time next year. The same tailors as above have quoted me $650 if I provide the material and anywhere from $750-$990 if I choose one of their fabrics (the only have 1 brand of fabric which I've never heard of, think it's spelled Dummel or Drummel or Dnummel or something along those lines). However I need suggestions on fabrics. I've seen this great Zenga 82% wool 18% silk sport coat at work and really like the feel, but am unsure if it is "professional enough". I'm wanting to wear it with odd pants to work but also in more casual situations. What do you guys suggest?
$280 is about right for a MTM shirt from a respectable tailor, but I suspect you could do a little better in Sydney with tailors who have been specialising in shirts as well as suits for years.

Charles Nakhle in Parramatta would be around that price range and he has an excellent reputation (though I am not a client of his and use another MTM tailor for my shirts).

 

[Prince of Paisley]

Originally Posted by Prof. B. Bear

In the wastelands of Adelaide. Should I just stick with 100% wool and find a shade of Navy I like or go for a blend?
Sorry for some reason I thought you were in Sydney.

If you intend to travel here or to Melb soon I and no doubt a few others could steer you toward a good shirtmaker. Once they have you measured you can then order your shirts while still in Adel.

 

[fxh]

Originally Posted by Prof. B. Bear

In the wastelands of Adelaide. Should I just stick with 100% wool and find a shade of Navy I like or go for a blend?

aaah - theres a few Adelaideans here I think

Blends usually cost more - for not a lot of appreciable difference.

How big is your wardrobe?

If starting out - don't bother with a blend just for the sake of it. Yet.

I've said this before - and its a serious proposal - Routleys in Hobart. I have never seen such a wide and quality selection of suits, pants, SCs and such in one store (not a large departmental) anywhere in my worldly but limited travels. Not all the most expensive quality but a good range.

http://www.routleys.com.au/

Well worth a cheap airfare to Hobart (Tiger anyone?) for weekend or even just a day -early morning till 5 pm - to check out the stuff. There is really no substitute for trying on stuff, feeling material, looking at colours etc to learn about clothing.

The cost of flying there and even committing to spending less than $1,000 would be a saving on buying online or MTM or bespoke that doesn't workout. And theres plenty of disasters.

It really does help to know a bit about cloth and different cuts and fits etc. up close.

 

[fxh]

Originally Posted by Prince of Paisley

Sorry for some reason I thought you were in Sydney.

If you intend to travel here or to Melb soon I and no doubt a few others could steer you toward a good shirtmaker. Once they have you measured you can then order your shirts while still in Adel.

Whats the problem with measurements - a lot of simple online places with ready made shirts like Lands End - offer a much much wider range of collar sizes and sleeve lengths than here - half sizes collars and infinitely variable sleeve lengths. And cheap.

 

[fxh]

Originally Posted by The Ernesto

Small piece by Gay Talese on pocket squares and dressing up.

http://www.gilt.com/giltmanual/2011/04/puff-piece/

If I was a famous 79 year old writer I'd dress more flamboyantly too.

But I'd never wear that dreadful yellow tie.

Talese is interesting he usually looks very well dressed in a dandyish way - his father was a tailor and he's worn bespoke suits since he was a kid.


Waiter Waiter

- Yes sir?

Theres a fly in my soup

- Thats alright sir - the cook used to be a tailor.



Talese's most famous essay - the one that started it all - http://www.esquire.com/features/ESQ1...T_SINATRA_rev_

Frank Sinatra Has a Cold

"Frank Sinatra Has a Cold" ran in April 1966 and became one of the most celebrated magazine stories ever published, a pioneering example of what came to be called New Journalism -- a work of rigorously faithful fact enlivened with the kind of vivid storytelling that had previously been reserved for fiction.

 

[__PG__]

Originally Posted by fxh

http://www.routleys.com.au/


I wonder how he stays in business and who his clientele are.

 

[TheWraith]

Originally Posted by The Ernesto

Sometimes see people with their winter coats on and the label still on the sleeve. Always feel like whispering 'you should take that off, looks better without..'.

Saw someone just like this at Central station in Sydney today. I smiled at him but let him be.

 

[fxh]

Originally Posted by __PG__

I wonder how he stays in business and who his clientele are.

re Routleys - its all pretty affordable and wearable. Beats any local competition - including Myers - hands down - even has their own version of the Lads Suit.

 

[CHECKstar]

My Saphir came in today, a week to the day that I ordered it from A Fine Pair of Shoes... will be ordering from them again for sure.

 

[TheWraith]

Originally Posted by fxh

re Routleys - its all pretty affordable and wearable. Beats any local competition - including Myers - hands down - even has their own version of the Lads Suit.

I'll have to check it out next time I'm down there.

 

[Dicko]

Anyone recommend a navy sportscoat?? I like the look of the J. Crew stuff.
I'm 23.

thanks