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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    Sometimes see people with their winter coats on and the label still on the sleeve. Always feel like whispering 'you should take that off, looks better without..'.

    On another issue, can you get tweed jackets in Melbourne (apart from op shops)? After a grey herringbone number.
     
  2. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    So guys...what kind of knots do you tie in your ties?

    Four-in-Hand
    Half-windsor
    Windsor

    Apologies if this has been covered!


    The FIH (Better known as the Schoolboy Knot) is the approved knot and also the easiest. Its also an important statement in these days of the grotesque super huge Windsor loosely tied as favoured by footballers and other sleazebags on the make.

    The Double FIH can be surprisingly tricky to do - but often works well with thinner ties. It does chew up a lot of tie length and therefore doesn't work well on all ties.

    I like to occasionally use the Pratt on thinner or slippery ties - or ones that are too long - it stays up well and gives a modest amount of bulk without being OTT. It is a bit symmetrical and not SF approved - but occasionally I like to push the envelope and live dangerously - I'm that kinda guy - rock n roll.
     
  3. Selvaggio

    Selvaggio Senior member

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    Was in the Herringbone clearance today at lunch (I am becoming a bit addicted), and half the shop was being boxed up to be sent to Melbourne.

    So Melburnians, cheap h-bone stuff coming your way.
     
  4. Selvaggio

    Selvaggio Senior member

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    I always use a Pratt knot on a spead collar (or, infact, with any collar with a wide tie gap). FIH is too stingy for all that room.

    Did anyone see the last the final ep of the ABC show On Trial? The defence solicitor every day wore a loose Windsor half the size of his head and, every day, he wore it a good inch below his top button. Mrs S reckons I can be a bit fussy about these sort things, but even she was [​IMG]
     
  5. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    Where do we stand on tie dimples? Personally, I'm a fan, but would never resort to this!

    [​IMG]
     
  6. blahman

    blahman Senior member

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    Was in the Herringbone clearance today at lunch (I am becoming a bit addicted), and half the shop was being boxed up to be sent to Melbourne. So Melburnians, cheap h-bone stuff coming your way.
    Please no! I've spent too much already! Anyway, half Windsor and double 4ih are knots I usually wear. More often half Windsors as I am going through a sort of cut-away collars phase at the moment. I need to chew up some tie length anyway - why are standard ties so long? I almost cried when I found my Zegna knit to be too long when I tried doing it 4ih.
     
  7. Selvaggio

    Selvaggio Senior member

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    I laughed - out loud! (at the dimpler, that is, I'm all for dimples)
     
  8. blahman

    blahman Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    This is a little bit more elegant..........
     
  9. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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    Half-windsor for me. I haven't tied a FIH knot literally since I was in school. I like symmetry and, done right, there is no hint of a "gorilla fist" knot a la <insert footballer name here>.

    I also find a HW easier when getting the dimple, though to be honest, that is often dependent on the quality/material of the tie.
     
  10. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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  11. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Hi guys, been lurking here a while , and figured Aussies are far more trustworthy to offer up advice on whats suitable (oh dear) for the sartorial environment in Australia.

    Certainly more trustworthy and (slightly) more mature in replies than the rest of SF

    i am located in Newcastle* and deal with mainly medicos, and am looking to update wardrobe up from the studio italia and Rundles suits I currently sport.

    Nothing particularly wrong with a Studio Italia - a well fitted Studio Italia or similar that has been chosen wisely and altered to fit well, will look better than a badly fitted expensive bespoke suit any day. (there are plenty of examples around SF of badly fitting very expensive bespoke suits)

    Modern fusing techniques rarely result in the dreaded bubbling of the past. The fact is that most people (including iGents) can't tell the difference between a fully canvassed suit, a partially canvassed suit and a good fused suit. Even tailors have to feel a jacket for a while to tell.

    That said - most other things being equal - a floating canvass jacket will be better than a half canvassing and that better than fused.

    6'2" 89kg, and a couple of options I have found are these.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/New-CANALI-Suit-...ht_3051wt_1139

    http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/...ln--42L/Detail

    http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Polo-Ralph-L...ht_1341wt_1139

    http://cgi.ebay.com/New-OXXFORD-1220...#ht_2269wt_905

    I only want 2 - already have a dark pinstripe charcoal, a medium charcoal by cambridge and co, and a black SI which is already a little worse for wear - so I figured navy blue would be a good start and something lighter, particularly for summer. The navy will probably make double duty as a blazer down the track with some contrasting buttons when the pants wear.

    Dont know whether it makes a difference, but i wear ties generally, though not over summer - side effect of being on the road and getting in and out of a car ;(.

    Any advice or comments greatly appreciated


    I have no particular comment on the above suits - it will depend on what you like and what fits you. I have one eHaberdasher suit and I can't really fault it - in fact for the price - it was on sale - its possibly some of the best value I've ever seen.

    I'd never buy two suits at a time - unless you are very experienced.. If you have to get one first and see how it fits - after a few wears - and you get it altered - until it feels like its yours.

    My advice is to take the two suits you already have that you consider ok and get them altered so that the fit is as right for you as you can expect. Theres a lot to learn about fit. Its harder to get right than most people think. The things you think you might want often end up looking very different on you - trouser break is one thing - -f'rinstance a break varied by 1/4 of an inch or so makes a huge difference to how it looks. Too narrow at bottom opening can look great or bad - and thighs, knees and bum and waist need to be considered - its not unknowable - but in practice its takes a while to know yourself and your body. Thats not to mention sleeve length waist suppression and jacket length.

    Once you get it (roughly) right with your two suits you can then get the measurements and use them to buy other stuff. But even then - I have many jackets with almost the same measurements and they all differ with how they look on wearing.

    Finding a good tailor who you can trust in your area is as important as the brand /type of clothes you buy. A good tailor will make you look good in a pair of Target chinos.

    I think that Sport Coats (SCs) are under rated and undervalued in Australia. I think SCs are ideal for our climate and general casual attitude. They offer a degree of formality and dressing up - and can be worn with ties and open necked shirt and even polos. There aren't that many goods SCs around so they stand out in their own way and you are unlikely to run into a Real Estate Agent or footballer wearing your same jacket with baggy (or skin tight) jeans and white running shoes shoes.

    The difficult part is that SCs aren't easy to find.

    SCs also allow for a more interesting pairing of other items like shirts, trousers, ties, shoes etc. So that in summer when you take your jacket off, and unlike in UK we have to take our jackets off here, you don't just look like a bloke who has just taken his suit coat off.

    A standard navy blue jacket (also called reefer or blazer by some) looks dressy and goes with a lot of stuff. With the addition of a lighter jacket for summer - say linen - or cotton and later a tweedy Harris for winter and you'll be set.

    I think as you are on the road** a lot you'd be better off with a few SCs and only one new suit*** at present. Spend the $ on nice SCs - trousers, decent chinos for summer, nice shirts not too formal, a few pair of medium shoes.

    *One of the upsides of living in Newcastle is that there might still be some old tailors around or just as useful an old style menswear shop with and older bloke who knows how to fit you. Find a well dressed old bloke on the street and ask him about locals. OTOH it might be a wasteland of moccasins and trackies.

    ** I'm assuming your are a pharma rep calling on GPs or pharmacies?

    *** Given your height and build you might do better with one of the online MTM places -
     
  12. Prof. B. Bear

    Prof. B. Bear Senior member

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    Alright guys need a few questions answered about MTM and fabrics.

    I am able to get MTM shirts made from a local tailor for $280, with discounts given on orders &gt;3. They're a very well respected establishment but have only recently expanded into MTM shirts. Is $280 a reasonable amount? I have not found ONE shirt which fits in at the collar, through the body and at the sleeves. I usually have to go 2-3 sizes up in order to find something which fits in the sleeves and I'm not too sure what can be done about 2-3cms of extra material around the collar.

    Secondly, I'm wanting to get a navy reefer jacket made. At the present time I can't afford P. Johnson and will only be able to go in for a fitting this time next year. The same tailors as above have quoted me $650 if I provide the material and anywhere from $750-$990 if I choose one of their fabrics (the only have 1 brand of fabric which I've never heard of, think it's spelled Dummel or Drummel or Dnummel or something along those lines).

    However I need suggestions on fabrics. I've seen this great Zenga 82% wool 18% silk sport coat at work and really like the feel, but am unsure if it is &quot;professional enough&quot;. I'm wanting to wear it with odd pants to work but also in more casual situations. What do you guys suggest?
     
  13. blahman

    blahman Senior member

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    pharmaboy: Also, non-wool suits (and I don't mean poly suits) seem to be largely ignored by most Australians. And considering that Australia isn't really THAT cold (relative to other parts of the world that is - but daaaamn it's freezing today) you can probably find a cotton suit that you can wear from Spring to end of Autumn for cheap from outlets. Pooh Bear: Dormeuil - I doubt you never heard of it though? I hope its not Dunelm though - they do curtains [​IMG]
     
  14. Prof. B. Bear

    Prof. B. Bear Senior member

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    Pooh Bear: Dormeuil - I doubt you never heard of it though? I hope its not Dunelm though - they do curtains [​IMG]

    Hmm that sounds about right, but I could have sworn there was an "n" in there somewhere. For lack of a better word, their fabric sample books looked a little shitty. But then again I haven't done a massive amount of fabric research atm.
     
  15. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Hmm that sounds about right, but I could have sworn there was an "n" in there somewhere. For lack of a better word, their fabric sample books looked a little shitty. But then again I haven't done a massive amount of fabric research atm.

    As blah said its probably Dormeuil http://www.dormeuil.com/cloth/en/

    Nothing wrong with it at all - but there are wider ranges around

    Where are you - Melbourne?

    Its pretty easy to find fabric books of cloth to look at.
     
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