Are the larger size watches simply a fad?

[mell]

After purchasing my Patek 3940, which is a 36mm size watch, I notice that many of the newer model Pateks are larger in diameter. These larger watches look to me to be more of a sport watch than a dress watch. I am aware that many other brands now offer these larger sport watches and I assume Patek is going along with this trend. I am wondering if this larger sport watch look is a fad. I never liked the look of a large diameter watch paired with a suit. Opinions?

 

[Merlino]

I cringe when I see small wrist with watches that are twice the size... I believe it started with Panerai and U-Boat watches... I think it's very unelegant.

 

[Gherkins]

Couldn't agree more. Although it is all coming down to personal taste and preferences I simply don't understand the appeal of large watches, even less sports watches. Nowadays I definitely don't find a modern watch I'd like to buy.

 

[TheFoo]

The popular trend definitely seems to favor larger watches, but that doesn't mean there isn't a good reason for larger watches in some applications.

After all, even slightly larger watches can be significantly more legible; this is particularly important when you've got complications like perpetual calendars that take up a lot of dial real estate. Of course, it's also easier to incorporate complications into larger movements.

Some watches are large for other functional reasons. Panerai's original watches needed to be large so they could be strapped on over wet suits and be more legible underwater. The B-Uhr (of which the IWC Big Pilot is a modern iteration) had to be big to fit over flight suits and so that pilots could tell time better while in battle.

Larger watches can also be more accurate because they allow for larger movements that can incorporate larger balance wheels. This was the original notion behind the Portuguese: create a wristwatch using a pocketwatch movement for the sake of improved accuracy and precision.

I'll consider any watch, big or small. But I hate it when watch cases are made disproportionately large compared to movements. Weird things can happen to the dial layout when this is done: most often, subdials float conspicuously close to the dial's center. It usually looks awful.

 

[mell]

My Patek 3940 is a perpetual calendar at 36mm. You will notice that even the perpetual minute repeaters, such as the 5004 Grand Complication is only 36.7mm.
Certainly a tribute to Patek for this accomplishment. This is why I have such appreciation of Patek's time pieces. I find them simply amazing. Even my 3940 has a 100 year gear which, as the name implies, turns once, every 100 years. This watch will account for every date, day including leap years, without the aid of electronics, just the use of gears. Watch making truly is an art.

 

[Thurston]

I don't think the larger trend will ever go away completely. I believe that 38mm will be established as the new men's dress size, with 40mm as midsize.

My IWC Jubilee Portuguese was made in 1993 and is 42mm in diameter. I don't think that it looks, feels or is too large. It is, in fact, an exact reproduction of earlier IWCs from the early-middle part of the 20th century. There's no spacer ring here.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

The popular trend definitely seems to favor larger watches, but that doesn't mean there isn't a good reason for larger watches in some applications.

After all, even slightly larger watches can be significantly more legible; this is particularly important when you've got complications like perpetual calendars that take up a lot of dial real estate. Of course, it's also easier to incorporate complications into larger movements.

Some watches are large for other functional reasons. Panerai's original watches needed to be large so they could be strapped on over wet suits and be more legible underwater. The B-Uhr (of which the IWC Big Pilot is a modern iteration) had to be big to fit over flight suits and so that pilots could tell time better while in battle.

Larger watches can also be more accurate because they allow for larger movements that can incorporate larger balance wheels. This was the original notion behind the Portuguese: create a wristwatch using a pocketwatch movement for the sake of improved accuracy and precision.

I'll consider any watch, big or small. But I hate it when watch cases are made disproportionately large compared to movements. Weird things can happen to the dial layout when this is done: most often, subdials float conspicuously close to the dial's center. It usually looks awful.
+1

Though I have a higher tolerance for smaller movements in larger watches - not that I'm a particular fan of that.

 

[TheFoo]

^^ Gorgeous. How much are those going for these days on the secondary market?

 

[Thurston]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

^^ Gorgeous. How much are those going for these days on the secondary market?
Too much.

I actually haven't followed them lately. I bought this two years ago and paid $12k. I do wear it quite regularly though, 2-3 days a week.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Beautiful IWC.

 

[CTGuy]

Everything in moderation. I have a large wrist, so I prefer something pretty large; however, I have seen some watches that look positively ghetto fabulous.

 

[farfisa23]

I'm wearing a 47MM Ernst Benz today: (http://www.topperjewelers.com/watche...z/cscopecont47) with a steel band and white/black dial. I love the watch. The thing is massive, but comfortable. I wear it a lot but when I put on something smalller, say a 38-40mm, they feel tiny. I was trying on a suit at Paul Stuart in NYC and when I took off my jacket, the salesman was, wow, that's a serious watch. A serious watch for serious times. That said, large watches have their time and place (pun, intended). Like good shoes, you can't just own one. A lot of variety is good. To me, as long as the movement is well made, that's what matters the most.

 

[gherrmann]

yes. hopefully one that will die soon.

 

[Coho]

People can do whatever they want. However, my opinion is that a consideration for aesthetics as to how they look on the wrist should be # 1 priority. Watches, afterall, are just accessories to enhance a suit or a nice car.

But, small/skinny wrists + big watches = look thuggish. A lot of skinny-wristed WIS I know are not completely honest with themselves as to what look good and what they like. In sort, Panerai and some IWC pilots do not look good on small wrists at all.

The ideal size for me is 35-38 for sport and 33 for dress. If you look hard enough, there are some gorgeous pieces out there in the smaller sizes. I have seen many early 90s Breguets, Gerald Genta, and Vacheron Constantin, loaded with moon phase, reserve, minute repeater, etc. all in 33-35mm in size.

On the other hand, guys with big/fat wrists should obviously stick to big watches.

Originally Posted by CTGuy

Everything in moderation. I have a large wrist, so I prefer something pretty large; however, I have seen some watches that look positively ghetto fabulous.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

Have you guys met Sator?

I think that anythinge between 36-41mm is here to stay. The "fad" is that U-Boat sizes schnat. I don't think you'll see things going down to like 32-34 as that is too dainty or precious to the modern man.