Fitting knitwear over shirts

[Mirage-]

I've long wondered why it seems like I'm the only person that absolutely dreads wearing standard knitwear over shirts, which is the fall-winter "smart casual uniform" for most people I know. Indeed, it takes me like 5 minutes of literal fighting against the knit and small readjustments of both knit and shirt to get it over the collar and especially the arms properly, i.e. by showing a little bit of cuff. Which is also part of the reason why I actually find jackets much more comfortable & easy to wear and remove than knits, with the exceptions of sleeveless knits which I wear daily under jackets in winter. And I usually only wear knits casually over t-shirts (but then I feel naked and/or cold without a collar so I almost exclusively wear those that have one).

Now, I had basically resigned myself to the fact it was never going to feel comfortable for me, but actually I recently purchased a second-hand Gran Sasso ribbed zip-neck on Vinted, and it turns the fit is significantly larger than everything else I have had in the arm (while remaining normally proportioned elsewhere). It doesn't look weird at all, in fact if anything I like it more than the usual, yet the knit is SO much more comfortable. Both with tees (I often experience irritation at the arm seams, especially at the cuff, since they tend to dig into my wrist/arm), and with shirts, which I can finally fit under it with very small effort instead of the usual battle.

I should note that I barely lift, so it's not like I have huge biceps at all. it just seems *all* the knits I own, including others from Gran Sasso, are cut to really hug the arm without any spare room.
Obviously, sizing up is not really an alternative with most brands since 48 is clearly my size for every other detail, particularly a 50 would be too long and too roomy in the waist. Hell, I have a 50 from Cavour (which I purchased thinking M meant 48 as is for Gran Sasso and many other italian brands) and while it is a bit long and large in the body, it *still* manages to cling to the arm too much, particularly the cuff.
So, am I really the only one that has had such experiences with knitwear? And what brands should I be looking into to solve this problem?

 

[GoldenBrahms]

I’ve found that materials play a big part in how easy it is for me to wear a sweater over a shirt. For one, the smoother the sweater and shirt, the better. I have no problems getting a merino sweater or cardigan over a standard and well worn OCBD. Chunky knits work fine, too, due to the weight.

Sweaters that are, in general, fuzzier or scratchier get way more hung up for me. You’ll scarcely find any lambswool or Shetland in my collection. I have one fair isle sweater, and it gets worn 2-3 times per year during the holidays. I love how it looks - I hate putting the damn thing on.

And, of course, sizing plays a huge part. Despite their distinct “fashion” proclivities, Banana Republic produces some nice Italian Merino sweaters that have always been a perfect fit for me. I typically wear a 38R (5’9, 160lbs, athletic), and their Medium is perfect for me. A little loungey with just a t shirt underneath, but a clean fit with a shirt.

Last, maybe there’s a bit of technique? I grab my shirt cuffs with the same hand at a specific angle (buttons aligned with sweater seams) as I push my arm through the sleeve. This sorts out the alignment as I don the sweater, and I hike the sleeves up too far/tight when going in, and readjust by pulling them down towards the cuff rather than up. Getting the shoulder set properly is the first order of business for me, the sleeves are easy after that.