Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.
Those look lightly worn, the heel looks pretty good.
Tend to agree (check out the ankle openings) - but with a recraft, they will be like new.
I'd been using only saddle soap to clean my cognac McTavish, and I'd definitely advise against it. It slowly strips away the deep dark cognac color. So, I'll go back to using just leather lotion on them.
Here they are after a few cleanings with saddle soap.
Here they are after a few coats of Neatsfoot Oil to restore some of the depth of color (oh, and of course make them super soft).
Just wondering if anyone can shed some insight on the sizing for the Amok. I own a Dundee in 9D and it fits perfectly. Should I go the same for the Amok? I've read through much of this thread and noticed people mentioning the Amok has a narrow-ish toe and just thought I'd ask for some opinions from people who may have both as well.
Looking at the eBay listing, these appear to have been resoled already, not by AE.
Doesn't that prevent a recraft by AE?
I tried the Amok. I couldn't get the sizing down. I opted for the Alden 1494 and haven't looked back since. The Amok is great if the last works for you.
yeah we'll have to see. Picked up a pair of snuff of Kristle in Jeffersonville. 2nd's for $99. Last pair in the system and she checked and no noticeable defects. I figured, for $99, I really can't go wrong. I sized them the same as the dundee I own and will just have to wait til wednesday to find out if I made the right decision. If not, I'm sure someone on SF or ebay will take em off my hands.
If I could get a paid of Alden snuff chukkas in the under $200 range I certainly wood. But at ~$460-500, it just isnt feasible for most budgets.
The Aldens are expensive, but I'm very happy with them.
Thanks for sharing this. I'm planning on buying Cognac McTavishes, and I would've definitely done the same as you. Do most of y'all agree with no saddle soap? I'm surprised to hear this since AE's website recommends it.
So what is recommended? I still am unclear on the different effects of the following, and which leathers to use them on:
AE Conditioner/Cleaner: Mainly cleans, but also moisturizes? For regular calf only?
AE Saddle Soap: Cleans and restores oils. For distressed/waxy leathers only?
AE Leather Lotion: No clue why one would use this instead of other things.
AE Shoe Cream: No clue. Alternative to polish?
Saphir Renovateur: Most recommended on SF. Sounds like it's just a better Conditioner/Cleaner, that also won't darken?
neatsfeet oil: Dunno. Alternative to the mink oil in Reno?
Leather Honey: Something I bought for furniture to restore oils before I was into shoes. Known to darken. Wonder what y'all think of it.
Okay, I know that's open-ended and gets a little into general shoe care, but curious about any information y'all have on the effects of these on different AE offerings, especially regular calf or the Rough Collection.
I believe AE makes such calls on a case-by-case basis, but, as a general rule, they don't recraft shoes that have been resoled or had other major work done by other cobblers.
I keep my eye out in the Shoe Mart irregulars updates, but they never seem to have the snuff chukka in my size. or rarely and its sold by the time I call. One day...one day...ha
I believe that using just the lotion would be the safest bet, especially on shoes with contrast stitching because it doesn't transfer the color from the leather to the stitching (which conditioners can).
Neatsfoot is great for making the leather supple, but it has a tendency to darken the leather, and you need to keep that in mind. In this case, that's what I wanted, and it's worked out well (they feel fantastic). I should have waited till the oils evened themselves out (which they do over hours), because they've returned to having a very even, but full, color and regained a touch of sheen. The wrinkles are less noticeable, filling in color wise and smoothing out a bit as they dried on trees. They look better than new.
To address another issue you raised, cream is a means of polishing, which doesn't apply to these.
Saddle soap is a pretty strong soap that cleans the leather deeply, but you'll see that your cloth is turning the color of the shoes. Since you're using a neutral colored cream, I bet you can guess from where that color might be coming.
Renovateur is a neutral product that could probably work well here, but you'd probably do just fine with some lotion and riding them like the rough shoes they are.
Just don't fall into using just saddle soap, no matter what they recommend.
I hope that helps.
It absolutely does. Thank you.
Agree, but those are still the original soles and heels, just with a topy and heel taps. You can just barely make out the ALlen Edmonds on the sole of the left shoe. They have been worn heavily, and are in need of care, but salvageable IMO. I still wouldn't spend very much money on them though (I'm just not into used shoes).
I like the idea of an unlined suede chukka, and the Amok is certainly attractive and can be had for $99 for firsts from the shoe bank. I tried the Amok but did not keep it. I do not own Dundees, but do own dark brown suede Loake Pimlicos as my only chukka.
I'm a 11.5 D on the 5 last, and had to go up to a 12 D with the Amok (the largest size they had). Even then, they were a little tight in the front/toes. I probably would have been okay with a thin sock.
Two other issues were: (1) the heel squeaked on the first pair I got (but not on the second), and (2) I found the suede to be noticeably lower in quality than on my Neumoks. I have heard both of these points made in the past on this thread.
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