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Advice on the pinch test

dba

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When using the pinch test to determine if a suit is canvassed on not, exactly how thick or thin should the middle layer feel. I was checking some of my suits and seem to have an inner layer of some sorts on one that I wouldn't expect to be canvassed so not really sure what I am feeling, lol.

Please advise!
dba
 

dba

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
All coats have a chest piece, so pinching the chest can be misleading. Try pinching below the bottom buttonhole -- if there's a third layer there, the coat is fully canvassed.

Yeah I tried that and got nothing = ( so was wondering if it might have been half-canvassed. Would you say the canvas layer is roughly the same thickness at the outer layers? Or is it much more padded feeling?
 

lee_44106

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Canvas can come in different thickness. As long as there is a DISTINCT third layer when doing the pinch test at the bottom, you got yourself a fully canvassed coat. FWIW, I do my pinch test at the very bottom, about 1" from the hem line and 1" in from the quarter portion of the jacket.
 

Zubberah

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In general i find traditional suit makers have a very thick canvas (Isaia, borrelli, Brioni, Kiton) and fashion-forward designers much thinner (Versace, Gucci). well that's my experience from those names that I own.
 

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