pinkpanther
Distinguished Member
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- Mar 17, 2013
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Today's Hober is a repeat and is the grenadine fina stripe #1 (6-fold construction).
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I have the same issue with most 3.25 inch ties. The primary cause is that your neck size and the length of your torso has the knot being tied on the part of the tie that is too slim to make a great knot. When I e-mailed David about this, I told him the issue and simply asked that he make the tie wider in the knot area for me. He responded by simply moving the taper further up and the result is a great knot on all my Hobers. I wouldn't get too hung up with specific measurements, but would simply correspond with David on the issue.
For what it's worth, I'm 6'2 and wear a 42L jacket, so comparable in size.
A great response.
While we are talking about tie construction - the answer is the same for shirts, jackets etc..
Communicate what you would like to see the end result to be. Let the clothing maker do their job by listening carefully and interpreting your thoughts.
Custom/bespoke makers are happy to work with actual measurement requests but most of the time a subjective comment like I wear spread collars please make the tie area a bit bigger works well. Again the listening by the maker is the most important part of the process.
Remember that there will be movement in a tie's size as the tie is handmade and designed to move - this is a good thing.
Adding interlining to make a bigger knot is an easy solution for a tie maker but not the best way. Instead adjusting the width in the knot area is much better.
Also asking for a very light interlining is not something that will always yield the best results. Using the normal interlining weight is almost always the best way to go. Because the tie will drape best with the interlining that has been chosen for the fabric. Note the normal weight is not very heavy/thick - it is just right.
The fabric and construction chosen for the tie will have more influence on the weight than the interlining.
^ Short answer is that at 6'1", 44" chest, you need 3.5" ties. And then, you don't need to worry about specifying a specific width at the knot area. Not sure why someone with your proportions is considering a narrower width anyway. I'm same size chest, couple inches shorter, roughly 4 inch lapels on my suits, and 3.5 inch ties are the sweet spot for me.
I'm expecting a batch in the coming days - likely to be my last in a long while as I will then have the final few pieces of my tie arsenal. (I know, I know...)
I feel like I owe this thread a good quality photo of the whole group of Hobers when they arrive as a thank you to David and the regular posters.
More than anything else, I hope the photo will prove helpful for colour comparisons. It should include a pretty good green spectrum, the 3 chocolate grossa variants, a midnight blue vs. black comparison, and other favourites.
Hold me to it gentlemen.
A great response.
While we are talking about tie construction - the answer is the same for shirts, jackets etc..
Communicate what you would like to see the end result to be. Let the clothing maker do their job by listening carefully and interpreting your thoughts.
Custom/bespoke makers are happy to work with actual measurement requests but most of the time a subjective comment like I wear spread collars please make the tie area a bit bigger works well. Again the listening by the maker is the most important part of the process.
Remember that there will be movement in a tie's size as the tie is handmade and designed to move - this is a good thing.
Adding interlining to make a bigger knot is an easy solution for a tie maker but not the best way. Instead adjusting the width in the knot area is much better.
Also asking for a very light interlining is not something that will always yield the best results. Using the normal interlining weight is almost always the best way to go. Because the tie will drape best with the interlining that has been chosen for the fabric. Note the normal weight is not very heavy/thick - it is just right.
The fabric and construction chosen for the tie will have more influence on the weight than the interlining.
Today's Hober is a repeat and is the grenadine fina stripe #1 (6-fold construction).
Fluorescent lights and white shirt make for a washed out pic, but the tie looks right:
Dark Red Grossa Stripe
Fluorescent lights and white shirt make for a washed out pic, but the tie looks right:
Dark Red Grossa Stripe