A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread

[sevenfoldtieguy]



Today's Hober is a repeat and is the Macclesfield #136 (6-fold construction).

Nice tie.

 

[MSchapiro]

Hi David,

There is a bit of a debate going on in another thread about inkjet fabric printing. Since I know many of your fabrics are hand printed, is it possible to see the back side of the raw fabric? The claim is that inkjet printed fabrics have a white backside while hand printed and silkscreen do not. Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[MSchapiro]

Thanks, that was a great response. So what accounts for the white backgrounds on many tie silks?

Also I need to get around to ordering a few more of your ties when I get back to the US. Anything particularly interesting yet conservative enough for work you think is a must have? Already have a few of the solid Grenadines.

 

[T4phage]



Lets use logic:

When you are silk screening you are typically applying pressure so dyes do go through the fabric to one extent or another.

In theory you could have very light pressure and the dyes do not go all the way through - or only partially.

Inkjet printers also could in theory have a light touch (lighter than screening anyway) and have no dye go through the fabric. But, I have not seen this; instead I have seen ink jet fabric printing (two fabrics and two different printers in mind) with the dye going through the fabric but not so deeply.

The colors that do tend to go through in general (inkjet or silkscreening) are the dark background colors.

So the comment that inkjet printing will leave a white back is a sartorial myth. At least not always.

'at least not always....'
from what i have seen
and from what
patrizio cappelli
has told me
(and he knows
his silks
and he has been
in this business
for a bit)
it is moar likely
than not
to be white
(or mostly
white)

many if not
most of teh printed
silk pocketsquares
from brand name
italian clothing
companies
are inkjet
and even if
they have a
'dark background'
the backs
are mostly
white.

see images below

i had an interesting
conversation with patrizio
about vintage silks
and sellers
and inkjets
and silkscreens

inkjet printing
is a recent
development
and a much cheaper
way of printing silks
and also
gives the ability to print
smaller runs
although it is not
as nice
as a silkscreened
fabric
it is easy
to distingush

nor would you
say an inkjet
fabric is a vintage
thing
unless one was
born yesterday.

also patrizio
mentioned how
it is relatively easy
to tell an english
vs italian woven
tie silk
by the way the silk
is woven.

hopefully it is visible
from teh photos
below

are yours
real vintage
or inkjet
italian
or
english....

not always
there are also
heavier italian
silks..
i note
that english silks
for silkscreening
tend to be finished
with a drier hand
while italians
tend to finish
with a 'silkier' hand


here are moar
italian inkjet samples
that patrizio cappelli
was showing
in various weaves
of silk

cappelli says
it is very easy
to recognize
silks printed
in this new
digital manner
by looking at
teh back

 

[T4phage]



T4phage,

Beautiful photos - what type of lens do you use?

As for the ink jet fabric printing debate - I am a bit late to the party and don't want to get involved with talking about other clothing makers and sellers.

A few more thoughts:

On my monitor none of the fabric backs are white - so either I am seeing something very different than your photos (always possible with the internet) or we are not agreeing on terminology or the samples shown are not the ones you are thinking of.

Here is a link of an example of a necktie fabric that is printed in Italy using an ink jet printer.

http://samhober.com/ink-jet-print.htm

As you can see there is a reverse side.

The same type of stripe using woven yarn that had been dyed would usually show a darker reverse.

Depending on the type of weaving sometimes you can use either side for tie making and you would not be likely to see a difference.

I don't know where my other ink jet sample is at the moment but it was printed in England and you can clearly see the back it is not white.

I don't have time to buy and learn how to use a fabric printer but it surely would be interesting....

thank you
david

i think we may
be talking about
the same thing
but using different
terminologies.

what i call 'white'
is the term cappelli
uses
but it does not mean
virgin white
none of the inkjets
that i saw was pure
snow white
like the photo
you showed.
i would have called that
'white'

all it means
is that the ink
has not fully penetrated
all teh way thru
so that the top white
fibres of silk
are generally undyed
and remain whitish

since most
if not all inkjet
silks start off on
a white piece of silk
(like printing paper)
unlike the silkscreened
fabrics

edit:
fuji lens
but using
nikon lenscap

 

[jeffd]

My current thoughts are that the new lens will be more important than the camera.

Always - though the current generation of sensors are allowing a lot of natural and low-light photography that previously wasn't possible by non-professionals. If you haven't discovered www.dpreview.com yet, do check it out - lots of incredibly thorough reviews and comparisons and an excellent forum as well.

Are you thinking about rephotographing your ties? That would be quite a project.

 

[pinkpanther]

Today's Hober is a repeat and is the Macclesfield #84 (6-fold construction).

 

[venividivicibj]

Pink panther, I think i represent everyone on this thread in saying thank you for keeping this thread alive, and always giving us more ideas taking our money

 

[tdude]

definitely!!

 

[LeviMay]



Pink panther, I think i represent everyone on this thread in saying thank you for keeping this thread alive, and always giving us more ideas taking our money

Yeah. Jerk.

 

[pinkpanther]



Pink panther, I think i represent everyone on this thread in saying thank you for keeping this thread alive, and always giving us more ideas taking our money

definitely!!

Yeah. Jerk.

You are all welcome. We may be parting with our $$, but we are getting great ties in return.

 

[applky]

You are all welcome. We may be parting with our $$, but we are getting great ties in return.

PP exactly how many Hobers do you have?

 

[pinkpanther]



PP exactly how many Hobers do you have?

I have north of 100 Hobers (111 to be exact).

 

[LeviMay]

 

[sevenfoldtieguy]

PP exactly how many Hobers do you have?

I have north of 100 Hobers (111 to be exact).

Nice collection.