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A few APC Rescue questions

Arethusa

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How's the fabric? I've seen a lot of comments about APCs "wearing like iron" and generally being among the more durable of high end denim. Is this accurate? Does it only apply to the popular New Standards, or can I expect fairly tough, heavyweight denim in a pair of Rescues as well?

How's the rise? I generally prefer lower rise (8-9"), and I am definitely not a fan of the current high rise trend. Where do the Rescues fit into this? I imagine if I size up, will I lose any chance of a slim fit?

If I'm planning on buying a pair now while training (and expandingmy waist, thighs, etc by extension), will they expand slowly over time as I fit into them, or will they be just incredibly baggy after two weeks? I'm mainly wondering if I can buy a pair three sizes down from an estimated eventual waist size (which would be around one down from my current waist or my current waist, depending on where they sit) and wear them long term as I become less waifish.

How's the bleeding on these? I was originally quite ambivalent about dry denim as I was worried that they'd bleed everywhere, but a few people mentioned that Nudies almost don't bleed at all. Is this the case with APC as well, or would I have to worry about everything I wore and sat on before the first few washes?

I realize there are some sizing questions in here, but I figured I should make a separate thread due to the general questions.
 

montecristo#4

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Originally Posted by Arethusa
How's the fabric? I've seen a lot of comments about APCs "wearing like iron" and generally being among the more durable of high end denim. Is this accurate? Does it only apply to the popular New Standards, or can I expect fairly tough, heavyweight denim in a pair of Rescues as well?

How's the rise? I generally prefer lower rise (8-9"), and I am definitely not a fan of the current high rise trend. Where do the Rescues fit into this? I imagine if I size up, will I lose any chance of a slim fit?

If I'm planning on buying a pair now while training (and expandingmy waist, thighs, etc by extension), will they expand slowly over time as I fit into them, or will they be just incredibly baggy after two weeks? I'm mainly wondering if I can buy a pair three sizes down from an estimated eventual waist size (which would be around one down from my current waist or my current waist, depending on where they sit) and wear them long term as I become less waifish.

How's the bleeding on these? I was originally quite ambivalent about dry denim as I was worried that they'd bleed everywhere, but a few people mentioned that Nudies almost don't bleed at all. Is this the case with APC as well, or would I have to worry about everything I wore and sat on before the first few washes?

I realize there are some sizing questions in here, but I figured I should make a separate thread due to the general questions.


APC denim is not heavy weight. After it's broken in, it's light and soft, although with a fairly dense weave.

Rescues are midrise.

I would buy three sizes down. In fact, I DID buy three sizes down. The waist will stretch a bit.

The bleeding isn't bad at all. Mine barely bled at all after a few wears. Compare that to my Sugarcane Okinawas, which bled profusely at the slightest touch and eventually needed to be warm water washed to be wearable in any practical environment.
 

Arethusa

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Is that common with most Japanese denim, or something? I've heard that about Samurai and a few others, too. Seems strange to pay so much for such an undesirable and impractical dye process.

[edit]

Also, how quickly did the waist stretch for you? How was the fit initially, and how do they fit now?
 

montecristo#4

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The waist stretched out pretty quickly over the first week of wear. Right now the waist is stretched out so it is about an inch too big for me, meaning that the jeans hang on my hips, which I am fine with. This doesn't surprise me either since the way my body is (thin waist, larger hips and thighs) this generally happens. Thighs do take a bit longer to stretch with APC. After a wash, everything shrinks back a little again but restretches. Unless you want to go anti-fit, I'd buy them tight. They will pretty much mold to your body over time.

The weird thing about the Sugarcanes (Okinawas) is that despite the fact that I turned my washing machoine water blue washing them, they are still just as dark as they were out of the box. They are much darker, in fact, than any other denim I own. It's going to be real interesting to see how they break in. The difference between something like APC and the Okinawa denim seems to me to be quite analagous to the difference between a 10 oz Loro Piana Super 120 and an old school heavy 13 oz Lessers worsted. Both are nice fabrics, but just completely different animals when it comes right down to it.
 

drake

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My Rescues are by far my favorite jeans right now. I didn't notice any bleeding at all, only a tiny bit close to the soles of my Chucks but that might have been because I wore them in the rain.

Once washed the denim is soft not amazingly soft, it still has a heft and roughness that denim should.

The rise is about normal trouser rise. If I recall correctly I put my Rescues up to a pair of RLPL trousers I have and the rise was exactly the same.

I'm normally a 33 or 34 I bought a 31 in my Rescues. They are tight right after a wash but loosen up after you wear them a lot or do what I did just strech them out. If I had to do it again I'd get a 32.
 

Edward Appleby

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I really love my New Standard's denim. It's not terribly heavy, but it's so dense.
 

GreyFlannelMan

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Originally Posted by Edward Appleby
I really love my New Standard's denim. It's not terribly heavy, but it's so dense.


I agree -- they feel like a denim chain-mail, but light.
 

tweedlesinpink

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i'd like to see denim swords and shields to go along with that...

also, aren't rescues selvedge as well?
 

seoulfully

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Originally Posted by tweedlesinpink
also, aren't rescues selvedge as well?

yeah, the rescues are selvedge. they do stretch a ton. the waist first, the thighs are a little slower to stretch but they get there. def get at least 2 sizes down. well i guess it depends on how you want to wear them.
 

Arethusa

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For anyone out there who decided to wear them as antifit jeans, how long did they take to stretch out? Is it slower by much if you're not wearing them skintight, initially?

Also, any suggestions on where I could pick up a pair on the (much) cheaper side of things?
 

tiger02

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Seems denimbar is tossed around as the cheapest retail outlet, still at $120.
 

LA Guy

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Originally Posted by Arethusa
For anyone out there who decided to wear them as antifit jeans, how long did they take to stretch out? Is it slower by much if you're not wearing them skintight, initially?

Also, any suggestions on where I could pick up a pair on the (much) cheaper side of things?


Not slower by much. But I tend to hook my thumb into my waistband, so jeans stretch out quickly for me. I am just above a 31 waist, and bought a size 32 NS, which were pretty loose on the hips to begin with. The 30's fit , but were a little tight (although I could easily button up all the buttons, and the tightness was in the butt and thighs rather than the waist, so probably not nearly tight enough for some people (they probably would have suggested I get a pair of 29 for "This is Spinal Tap" tightness). In retrospect, I would have gone with a pair of 31, which would have still been antifit, but not as loose on the hips. The 30's would have been slightly antifit, but not by a whole lot (they would have ended up fitting me like a pair of Helmut Lang Classics).
 

seoulfully

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Originally Posted by LA Guy
Not slower by much. But I tend to hook my thumb into my waistband, so jeans stretch out quickly for me. I am just above a 31 waist, and bought a size 32 NS, which were pretty loose on the hips to begin with. The 30's fit , but were a little tight (although I could easily button up all the buttons, and the tightness was in the butt and thighs rather than the waist, so probably not nearly tight enough for some people (they probably would have suggested I get a pair of 29 for "This is Spinal Tap" tightness). In retrospect, I would have gone with a pair of 31, which would have still been antifit, but not as loose on the hips. The 30's would have been slightly antifit, but not by a whole lot (they would have ended up fitting me like a pair of Helmut Lang Classics).
it was the same for my rescues. could easily do all buttons. waist not tight (snug is more like it). butt/thighs tight, not skintight, but tight. now after just over 2 weeks of wearing (only in the evening as my day job frowns on the denim) they are great. waist is big (should've worn a belt to try to minimize stretch), butt still snug enough to keep them from falling off. thighs a loose snug (if that makes any sense). i'd bet if you could wear them all day every day probably a few days, week at most to get them stretched out. though the APCs, relatively new or not, are going to start missing some time, as i just got some nudie RRDS's which are going to be getting most of the burn. then perhaps i'll figure out some kind of rotation based on when i can wear them and how much wear is showing on each.
 

jpgm

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so...i pretty much clarified things last time i asked about the rescues, but as always with APC sizing, there's many conflicting opinions.

i'm a 30, and my 28 new standards have stretched out in 4 months quite a bit, but they still fit great. i'm looking at getting the dyed grey rescues in 29 (which unfortunately is the smallest size), and i wan't a relatively relaxed fit, though still snugg-ish in the waist.

are the 29 going to be way too big for me, or will they be fine?

alternatively, should i just flip a coin?
 

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