1st Chan suit -- pics

[rnoldh]

The amount of shirt sleeve that you show is a preference, but around here to show none is a glaring error.

Shorten those sleeves.

And yes, the pants seem way too long but that too is fixable.

And I would not have chosen quarters closed as much.

If this was your first bespoke suit, you did OK. It could be improved upon, but you will get there.

 

[max power]

Thank you for the comments!

The button stance was the first thing I noticed, too (after the sleeve and trouser length issues). My concern with this jacket is that it looks a little off-balance and almost pear-shaped at times, in light of the high button stance and pronounced waist suppression (e.g., in the pic where the colors are notably off for some reason).

I hadn't noticed the "short-in-front" issue, but appreciate the comments along those lines. Nothing we can do about that now (like the button stance), but I'll ask Patrick about these issues if I go for a second suit.

Another thing that bothers me is a slight bunching at the right shoulder, as you can kind of see in the zoomed-in picture. There's a persistent fold that comes down the front from the shoulder to the bottom of the arm-hole, and some corresponding rippling down the back as well. I am hoping Patrick can remedy this. I'll also have him take a look at the collar and vents.

As for the apparent trouser looseness (not length), I'm not sure how that can be remedied. My thighs/calves are fairly wide (and my inseam quite short), so there's not much space to work with, unfortunately. I would like to fix the bagging in the seat, as ghermann pointed out, though.

Ed: Why don't you like my flap pockets?

 

[AntonioG]

Originally Posted by max power

Thank you for the comments!

My concern with this jacket is that it looks a little off-balance and almost pear-shaped at times, in light of the high button stance and pronounced waist suppression

+1

 

[LawrenceUK]

Overall I think its a pretty nice fitting suit. Jacket length judged by the rule of dividing you in half looks fairly spot on. How this could be judged too short is beyond me, some people obviously like to wear sandwich boards...

Bottom line you are short and stocky with very sloping shoulders and big thighs. Not a natural suit model.

 

[JLibourel]

Originally Posted by Tarmac

The pants are too long, that's the only thing I would say for certain.

Agree. Sleeves a tad long perhaps, but I wouldn't bother changing them. I thought the open quarters business was more a matter of contemporary fashion. I am surprised they are so closed on the OP's suit since Patrick has been opening them up a bit more on the most recent jackets he's made for me. Jacket length looks okay to me.

 

[Vintage Gent]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

I am surprised they are so closed on the OP's suit since Patrick has been opening them up a bit more on the most recent jacket's he's made for me. Jacket length looks okay to me.

He's been doing the same for me, Jan, but that's only been by adamant request. My impression, from my initial suit and from what I've seen, is that Chan's default is relatively closed quarters.

 

[JLibourel]

He has been opening up the quarters on my jackets on his own volition, nothing I requested.

 

[Jumbie]

I pretty much like the suit with a few exceptions that have already been mentioned. The quarters are too closed and the length of the sleeves and pants is too long.

 

[teddieriley]

Never had any resistance from Chan regarding my request for open quarters. I actually sent the request by e-mail as an after thought. They did a great job with it. But it's probably something that should be specified if one wants a noticeable difference in the quarters.

 

[max power]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

He has been opening up the quarters on my jackets on his own volition, nothing I requested.

Hmm. I had asked for open quarters when I ordered this suit.

Originally Posted by LawrenceUK

Bottom line you are short and stocky with very sloping shoulders and big thighs. Not a natural suit model.

Guilty as charged! Given my frame, this is much better than anything I've found OTR. I'll see about fixing some of the minor issues with this suit and probably give it another whirl (i.e., order another one) next week. Appreciate the feedback.

 

[Omar1223]

im sorry but what are quarters? i apologize for the dumb question.

 

[Jumbie]

Originally Posted by Omar1223

im sorry but what are quarters? i apologize for the dumb question.

To put it in its simplest terms, it's where the two halves of your jacket meet below the bottom button.

 

[Verso]

Originally Posted by Omar1223

im sorry but what are quarters? i apologize for the dumb question.

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=1113540

 

[jcriswel]

Love the suit... love the fit. The only thing I would change is the length of the pants - too long. That's my pref... yours might be different. Everything else looks great to me. Congratulations!