1st Chan suit -- pics

[max power]

I recently took delivery of my first suit from Chan, the ordering of which was discussed in this thread. I ordered in November, had a basted fitting in March, and got the suit in May. The fabric is a from the Holland & Sherry 10/11 oz. Target book (HS525), in charcoal. The shirt is from Chan as well, and is darted in the back.

I think the sleeves and trousers are a bit too long, and have some other thoughts as well, but would love to hear the forum's feedback. I have an appointment with Patrick next week in D.C., at which I plan to ask him to address some minor fit issues and probably order a second (navy) suit. Thanks! -MP

 

[aportnoy]

Pants and jacket sleeves are too long, otherwise it looks quite nice.

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by aportnoy

Pants and jacket sleeves are too long, otherwise it looks quite nice.

I would also have more open quarters

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by zjpj83

I would also have more open quarters

Agreed. Also, to me, the jacket looks short in front. I'm not sure if that's because it's actually short or because the higher button stance makes it look that way. I'm inclined to believe the latter is the case since the back of the jacket looks right.

 

[edmorel]

Other than the fabric, I don't really like anything else. I think the pants don't seem to go with the jacket, cut wise. I think the jacket has some issues, the flap pockets don't seem to work, the back vents are a bit off, I do like the shoulders and sleeves, if a bit too long.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by edmorel

the back vents are a bit off

This is dangerously close to nit-picking about sleeve pitch.

 

[zalb916]

The collar seems to be sitting a little off from your neck in a few of the pics and maybe just a little low as well.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Manton

This is dangerously close to nit-picking about sleeve pitch.
The sleeve pitch, which is often terrible on Chan suits, is actually quite good.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

1. The coat is too short
2. Trousers and sleeves are too long
3. As mentioned earlier, more open quarters would be nice
4. Vent needs to be closed better
5. Trousers are cut a bit loose imo
6. I would lower the buttoning point a tad

Not sure, but from some of the pics I get the impression that your left collar is pulling off your neck - you may want to have that looked at.

 

[Reborn]

Overall I think it's a good first try that is wearable.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

1. The coat is too short
2. Trousers and sleeves are too long
3. As mentioned earlier, more open quarters would be nice
4. Vent needs to be closed better
5. Trousers are cut a bit loose imo
6. I would lower the buttoning point a tad

Not sure, but from some of the pics I get the impression that your left collar is pulling off your neck - you may want to have that looked at.

But I agree with all of this.

To my novice eye it seems like the coat seeming to short might look differently if he goes with a slimmer and correct length pant?

 

[haganah]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

1. The coat is too short 2. Trousers and sleeves are too long 3. As mentioned earlier, more open quarters would be nice 4. Vent needs to be closed better 5. Trousers are cut a bit loose imo 6. I would lower the buttoning point a tad Not sure, but from some of the pics I get the impression that your left collar is pulling off your neck - you may want to have that looked at.
How the heck is that too short?? Now I'm worried you wear those 4 button NBA style jackets

As for open quarters, is that a style preference or are there rules to it that I should know about? I take it a lot of the Italian cuts are much more open, correct?

 

[gherrmann]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Agreed. Also, to me, the jacket looks short in front. I'm not sure if that's because it's actually short or because the higher button stance makes it look that way. I'm inclined to believe the latter is the case since the back of the jacket looks right.

isn't it a front-back balance issue? looks to me like the front of the coat should extend a bit further.

also, in addition to being too long, it looks as if the trousers are bagging a bit in the thighs/seat. I'm no expert, but I've heard others say that this is often caused by too much length in the back rise.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by haganah

How the heck is that too short?? Now I'm worried you wear those 4 button NBA style jackets

As for open quarters, is that a style preference or are there rules to it that I should know about? I take it a lot of the Italian cuts are much more open, correct?

Well, whatever the actual problem, the jacket gives the impression of being short in front. It's as it if its sliding back over the OP's shoudlers. As ghermann says, it's an issue of balance. I think it would look much better if the button stance was significantly lower (maybe by as much as an inch-and-a-half) and the front hem was a tad bit longer.

I don't know how 'correct' open quarters are in any objective sense, but I happen to prefer them. You get more leg that way.

 

[Tarmac]

I think it looks great. Slightly unusual but still conservative fabric, looks good. The pants are too long, that's the only thing I would say for certain.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by haganah

How the heck is that too short?? Now I'm worried you wear those 4 button NBA style jackets

But, but...I thought that was the cool look these days!