The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Isbister · Sep 16, 2013

wurger said:

wurger · Sep 16, 2013

Had a quick look on the Duckers site, a lot classic in a round profile. Reading from Simon Crompton's blog, they seemed to be made in Grenson.

Isbister · Sep 16, 2013

wurger said:
Had a quick look on the Duckers site, a lot classic in a round profile. Reading from Simon Crompton's blog, they seemed to be made in Grenson.

That's interesting - Grenson seem to have gone downhill a bit in recent years, but my first pair of Oxfords, bought in 1975, were tan Grensons. The stitching was superb - 16 to the inch or thereabouts. I had the shoes until very recently; they had developed a wonderful patina.

Louis XIV · Sep 16, 2013

wurger said:
As you agree, they are good looking, but good quality none the less, and a premium for the John Lobb brand, but would you extend your views to G&G and EG RTW, as they are in the price range?

The difference in longevity is negligible.
Buy based on what fits and looks best to you and what you are able and willing to afford.
Don't confuse a "mass"produced RTW shoe with the piece of art a unique pair of bespoke shoes is.

goodlensboy · Sep 16, 2013

Very useful thread, especially the group photo

JubeiSpiegel · Sep 16, 2013

Which ones are the C&Js, wurger?

Louis XIV · Sep 16, 2013

Audley on the right of the top row.

MoneyWellSpent · Sep 16, 2013

Nice thread. From the overhead view provided, I like the looks of either the C&J or the Edward Green's the most.

wurger · Sep 16, 2013

Louis XIV said:
wurger said:

As you agree, they are good looking, but good quality none the less, and a premium for the John Lobb brand, but would you extend your views to G&G and EG RTW, as they are in the price range?

Click to expand...

The difference in longevity is negligible.
Buy based on what fits and looks best to you and what you are able and willing to afford.
Don't confuse a "mass"produced RTW shoe with the piece of art a unique pair of bespoke shoes is.

Definitely wont be confused, as bespoke is twice to quadruple the price again.

chogall · Sep 16, 2013

JL 7000 is such an elegant last; EG 82 is a close second.

But eight pairs of the exact same style and same color. DAYMN. That's some dedication right there.

Viral · Sep 16, 2013

No love for Carmina Simpson black captoe?

scurvyfreedman · Sep 16, 2013

I'm very interested in following this thread. While last shape is something of personal fit and preference, the finishing of the different shoes I think can be applied across the various lines. I'm glad it's a handgrade C&J that's in the comparison. Which AS model is it? Exclusive or Handgrade? I'm sure I can just wait for the write up on that particular pair.

Thanks for doing this.

wurger · Sep 16, 2013

Viral said:
No love for Carmina Simpson black captoe?

someone else might have to do that one.

wurger · Sep 16, 2013

scurvyfreedman said:
I'm very interested in following this thread. While last shape is something of personal fit and preference, the finishing of the different shoes I think can be applied across the various lines. I'm glad it's a handgrade C&J that's in the comparison. Which AS model is it? Exclusive or Handgrade? I'm sure I can just wait for the write up on that particular pair.

Thanks for doing this.

Exclusive, all shoes are RTW, while AS Handgrade are like MTOs.

wurger · Sep 17, 2013

Edward Green

In 1890 Edward Green began to make hand-crafted shoes for gentleman in a small factory in Northampton. He soon gained the reputation for making the finest shoes in England for the discerning few. This reputation was founded on the skill of his craftsmen and his belief in excellence.

The company was sold in 1977 by Green’s nephew to an American leather entrepreneur, Marley Hodgson, but financial problems continued and it was sold for a single British Pound to another bespoke shoemaker, John Hlustik, an expert at finishing who is often credited with making brown shoes acceptable to British gentlemen. Upon Hlustik’s unexpected death in 2000, the company was willed to his partner, Hilary Freeman.

Following the departure of Tony Gaziano in 2006, Edward Green discontinued their bespoke shoe programme and introduced their Top Drawer range, in addition to their Made to Order and Ready to Wear range.

My Edward Green Ready to Wear Chelsea Black in 82 last, size UK 6.5E
Purchased from Edwards of Manchester, RRP £550 ext. VAT
Topied at Coombs in the Strand Arcade Sydney

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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

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