The Rubinacci Thread.

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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Oh no you did'unt.
Is your avatar mooning me as a result of my comment?

Originally Posted by RSS

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Is your avatar mooning me as a result of my comment?

I do not have the requisite intellect for an effective comeback, so yes, in all instances.

Originally Posted by RSS

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Is your avatar mooning me as a result of my comment?
In the case of this particular avatar, I would construe it as a compliment.

Originally Posted by poorsod

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In the case of this particular avatar, I would construe it as a compliment.
This being Style Forum, naturally I am a moon connoisseur.

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

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Sorry, I didn't mean to sound so demanding there.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Too much has been made of this "feature." There is no extra padding or other material added to the chest; in fact, the chest canvas is extremely thin and light. Rather, I think the roundness in the chest you're talking about is largely the result of good cutting. You see it on many other bespoke jackets, not just those made by Rubinacci or in Naples, and it is typically lacking in RTW.

That said, I'm sure the lightness of Rubinacci's construction influences the overall effect in some way.

Thanks, I guess I had trouble rectifying what I'd read about Neapolitan jackets (how natural feeling they are etc) with what I'd seen in some of the Rubinacci pictures here.

It clicked for me after seeing that gray stripped suit a couple pages back.

I think perhaps because people (rightly so) like perfect wrinkle, ruffle and divot-free shots to show off fit and WAYWN which might make those drape chested jackets seem stiffer, and more unnatualrly still than they are.

What do you mean by balance?

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The front-back balance of a suit, I think anyways.

When people comment of the balance of a jacket being off it's usually noticeable to me that something is off, but I'd like to learn more about the cause, the symptoms, how it's fixed etc.

I've learned a lot reading through threads here, FNB, the london lounge and AAAC, but was hoping that there might be some books out there with more information in a more accessible form (so I wouldn't have to wade through pages of inside jokes and forum politics to learn something about sleeves).

Most of the books I've picked up seem to be full of the same sort of uninteresting conventional wisdom about avoiding pant cuffs if you're short, DBs if you're fat, two buttons if you're tall and matching collar shapes to the face, I'd like to learn more.

There are so many people here who know so much about this sort of thing, where did you all learn from?

Originally Posted by TRINI

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Makes it easier to adjust the length of the sleeve if necessary.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Yes, that's the explanation I was given.

I am not sure I am following this; assuming the 4th button is the one farthest removed from the end of the sleeve, I don't see how it being non-functional would help. I am assuming you're referrring to adjusting it at the sleeve end - as opposed to the sleevehead - but either way, I am confused. What am I missing?

Originally Posted by Lonneker

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I am not sure I am following this; assuming the 4th button is the one farthest removed from the end of the sleeve, I don't see how it being non-functional would help. I am assuming you're referrring to adjusting it at the sleeve end - as opposed to the sleevehead - but either way, I am confused. What am I missing?

If you lengthen the sleeve from the sleeve end, you will have the 4 buttons higher up the sleeve than before.

With the 2 non-functional buttonholes, you can remove those buttons and place them below the 2 functional buttonholes.

In a bespoke why would the sleeve length need to be changed after the buttonholes are put in ?

Originally Posted by aj_del

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In a bespoke why would the sleeve length need to be changed after the buttonholes are put in ?

So you can pass them on to your kids.

Originally Posted by aj_del

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In a bespoke why would the sleeve length need to be changed after the buttonholes are put in ?

Mostly for if a family member inherits your jacket or if you sell it to someone else.

Here is another photo of the infamous misplaced button. It is in fact off by a mm or two. It doesn't bother me all that much but I can see why it would bother others. Dealing with the hassle of it just seems well...not worth my time or effort - especially when it fits so well otherwise.

And on a lighter note - here is the current line up of LH in my closet. Still need to find a good brown suit, solaro, and will eventually get a POW DB as well as an overcoat.

Originally Posted by RSS

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This being Style Forum, naturally I am a moon connoisseur.

My new signature. It made me laugh.

Originally Posted by whnay.

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Brilliant collection.

^ Nice, but I think they would love some more space.

Originally Posted by Kaplan

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^ Nice, but I think they would love some more space.

But then I'd have no place to put my shirts.

Originally Posted by whnay.

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Here is another photo of the infamous misplaced button. It is in fact off by a mm or two. It doesn't bother me all that much but I can see why it would bother others. Dealing with the hassle of it just seems well...not worth my time or effort - especially when it fits so well otherwise.

I had to look three times to see what you were talking about...on a closeup shot. I'm sure not a soul in the world would ever notice that. Ever.

Great looking SC btw.