Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

[Kuro]

Good stuff.

I shall endeavor to provide similar reportage this fall for the forum...

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Nice. Look forward to the other reports.

 

[hst]

Very interesting read. I like the very vivid descriptions.
Looking forward to the next edition!

 

[TheTukker]

Just curious: how does he compare to La Rukico?

I think I know the difference between the two, but just checking.

 

[luk-cha]

nice post - been a while since we've had a cracker!

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I also ordered an overcoat

I'm glad you finally capitulated to SF groupthink. Details? That was also a really enjoyable update.

--Andre

 

[SpooPoker]

Great article, Matt. Well written.

 

[TexasDan]

I enjoyed the post quite a bit. They have an impressive operation. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Gus]

Good story. Glad you had an enjoyable experience.

 

[marcodalondra]

Matt,

Great post but you are indeed a bit biased.

If you are referring to service to foreign clients, fair enough, but as an Italian, not needing of communications special attention, you would get the same service at least at any reputable tailors.

The very rich Neapolitans, like the Grimaldi's shipping family, Lauro's and other big business families use other tailors....

With all due respect you and others experience Naples as tourists and get overhyped when you get special attention as such. When I first came to NYC I enjoyed it so much as I was a guest of some New Yorkers and experienced the city life as one of them.

Regards

Marco

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by A Y

I'm glad you finally capitulated to SF groupthink. Details? That was also a really enjoyable update.

I'll talk about that in a future blog post. I'll say this: it's a bit of a gamble.

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

Great post but you are indeed a bit biased.

If you are referring to service to foreign clients, fair enough, but as an Italian, not needing of communications special attention, you would get the same service at least at any reputable tailors.

The very rich Neapolitans, like the Grimaldi's shipping family, Lauro's and other big business families use other tailors....

With all due respect you and others experience Naples as tourists and get overhyped when you get special attention as such. When I first came to NYC I enjoyed it so much as I was a guest of some New Yorkers and experienced the city life as one of them.

I have no idea which rich Neapolitan families use which Neapolitan tailors. However, I'm not sure it even matters. What's popular in Naples may not be what I, or another person seeking a Neapolitan tailor, wants to wear. In fact, I'd go English before using many of the Neapolitan tailors whose work I've seen. For example, though I'm glad many are happy with Mina's work, it isn't my cup up tea and it is very, very different from what Rubinacci does. I'd switch to Huntsman before using Mina or Volpe. Anyway, if you've ever taken a look at the vintage Rubinacci suits from the 30's-50's, you'd see for yourself that nothings changed since.

As for service, my standard of comparison is against other internationally-renowned tailors. I've never had the problems others have in getting their tailor to make changes, even re-cutting entire jackets to correct a minor error. They also almost always deliver on time.

 

[Cary Grant]

Thanks for this, Foo.

 

[marcodalondra]

I agree it does not matter in general but it was in response to you stating that Neapolitan use Rubinacci.... Volpe would do the impossible to make sure a client is satisfied and I can say that first hand but also know tha most Neapolitan tailors would do the same. Also, as he openly told you, Rubinacci regularly approaches other tailors to go and work for him, and he even commissions work from some of the tailors you would not use... Volpe is not an Huntsman comparative, is it? Also not really in the same ballpark as Mina's tailoring team. I am only saying that you could, peraphs in future, explore other realities in Naples before thinking that Rubinacci is the absolute best.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I'll talk about that in a future blog post. I'll say this: it's a bit of a gamble. I have no idea which rich Neapolitan families use which Neapolitan tailors. However, I'm not sure it even matters. What's popular in Naples may not be what I, or another person seeking a Neapolitan tailor, wants to wear. In fact, I'd go English before using many of the Neapolitan tailors whose work I've seen. For example, though I'm glad many are happy with Mina's work, it isn't my cup up tea and it is very, very different from what Rubinacci does. I'd switch to Huntsman before using Mina or Volpe. Anyway, if you've ever taken a look at the vintage Rubinacci suits from the 30's-50's, you'd see for yourself that nothings changed since. As for service, my standard of comparison is against other internationally-renowned tailors. I've never had the problems others have in getting their tailor to make changes, even re-cutting entire jackets to correct a minor error. They also almost always deliver on time.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

I agree it does not matter in general but it was in response to you stating that Neapolitan use Rubinacci....

I didn't say a lot or many did, I said some--which was in response to another poster claiming Rubinacci is worn by no Neapolitan.

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

Volpe would do the impossible to make sure a client is satisfied and I can say that first hand but also know tha most Neapolitan tailors would do the same.

Obviously, I cannot and won't refute that with any firsthand knowledge, but I do find it implausible. Most tailors anywhere will naturally push back on changes after a certain point, as they pile on to the cost of the garment. It would very much surprise me if most Neapolitan tailors buck this trend.

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

Also, as he openly told you, Rubinacci regularly approaches other tailors to go and work for him, and he even commissions work from some of the tailors you would not use...

Now, this I strongly doubt. Everything I've personally seen worn by Mariano is a Rubinacci-made garment. I can't saw for sure he hasn't ordered from elsewhere, but it would be extremely odd.

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

Volpe is not an Huntsman comparative, is it? Also not really in the same ballpark as Mina's tailoring team.

I am only saying that you could, peraphs in future, explore other realities in Naples before thinking that Rubinacci is the absolute best.

I wasn't comparing Volpe to Huntsman. What I meant to say is that despite Volpe's popularity amongst Neapolitans or the quality of his work, I don't like his style. I prefer Rubinacci precisely because it is more moderate, more relaxed, and less aggressively 'Neapolitan'. Thus, if I could not use Rubinacci, I would probably turn to a place like Huntsman before using another Neapolitan tailor such as Volpe.

Obviously, I don't know Rubinacci to be the best--and I don't think I've ever made such a naked claim. I did say that Rubinacci believes itself to be the best and sees being the best as an imperative since they charge so much more than other tailors in the city. I also pointed out that other Neapolitan tailors and craftsmen I've met have mentioned that Rubinacci is excellent. The common theme seems to be: "Perhaps they do the best work, but why pay twice as much for something that is only ten percent better?"

 

[NOBD]

Interesting report, nice pictures. Thanks for sharing.