The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

Nothing major, or posture issues except the low right shoulder but try sizing down. These look too big everywhere.

 

[tossaway321]



Nothing major, or posture issues except the low right shoulder but try sizing down. These look too big everywhere.

Thanks. That brings me to another thing. Those are both 40R. For me, really, the ideal RTW size tends to be a 39R for most brands. Of course, a lot of places don't carry 39... only even numbers. So I end up having a dilemma. I can either buy a 40, which feels too big in the shoulders, but doesn't pull in the buttoning area; or, I can buy a 38, which feels great in the shoulders but pulls quite a bit in the buttoning area (too tight in the waist, I assume). Is the solution to buy a 38 or 39, and then have an alterations tailor let out the waist a bit?

 

[Despos]

As long as the jacket has enough outlet to let out the waist, I would buy the best fit in the chest and shoulder. Which size works best for the trouser?

 

[tossaway321]



As long as the jacket has enough outlet to let out the waist, I would buy the best fit in the chest and shoulder. Which size works best for the trouser?

For the trouser, typically a 33 or 34 in the waist. As far as the jacket goes, how do you tell with RTW garments whether there is any (let alone enough) fabric to let out in the waist of the jacket? And am I correct in saying that if the jacket is pulling in the buttoning point, but fits fine in the shoulders, that means that the waist is too tight?

 

[Despos]

I think letting out a 38 or 39 will look better on you as long as it can be done with the outlets available. You can feel thru the lining or along the outside cloth along the seams for the edge of the outlet to see how much is there. Opening the lining and looking is also an option. The less expensive the make the less outlet. Some jackets have hardly any outlet. minimal at best.

Pulling on the button does not mean the jacket is tight at the waist, could be the cut of the shoulders. a result of a low shoulder or your posture and the balance of the jacket.

 

[IsteRed]



Lengthen right sleeve 1/4" and shorten left 1/2" or so. Fronts are short, you need about 1" more length added at the front shoulder.

Thank you! what about making the sleeves slimmer? and what is your comment on the suit in general?

 

[bnovc]

I bought two new shirts from ModernTailor. I'm interested in opinions.

First, a tuxedo shirt. I think this came out well in terms of fit, but the buttons in the front are visible through the placket. I'm not sure why it came out this way, since I copied an existing shirt from MT. It seems like the best solution will probably be to have the front buttons replaced with white buttons.








The second shirt is a purple gingham. I think this came out pretty well. Next time I think I will get a non-spread collar if I don't plan to have it buttoned. It seems like a point collar would look better?

Perhaps a little smaller at the waist to avoid the bulging in the second picture?






Thanks for any feedback!

 

[aw82]

Can I get some input on whether you would send this back for a size smaller? I'm primarily concerned by the dimples on the shoulders.

 

[Diefenbaker]

Thank you very much, a tailor and Despos. Hopefully with your advice, I can get this to a satisfactory resolution. If you don't mind, I do have a few follow up questions. I never knew my posture was that unusual!

atailor covered this one well, I want to comment on the trouser as you don't have an easy to fit posture for trousers. Reverse pleats would work better for your build and body type. They need to take note of your right hip being higher and larger but some MTM programs don't go that far.
I would taper and shape the thigh/knee area and make the bottoms 1" wider, change to reverse pleats. On these trousers the fit is tight on your abdomen, 2" below the waistband seam but this is due to the way the waistband has been sewn onto the trouser. Removing the waistband and sewing it on properly, reshaping the leg would transform these.

Can you further explain the waistband issue? In all my lurking here, I haven't seen this issue discussed before. I guess I'll excise forward pleats in the future, though I prefer them in theory. What exactly makes them not work for me?

Quote:

Diefenbaker
heres a second thought.
if the fabric is of H Freemans in stock of woolens, they may still have more yardage of it.
they can cut a new back that makes up for the shortness at the top. they will need the order
number inside the coat pocket. they can look up the cutting order to see how it was cut and
correct the problem. while they have the coat opened up you might ask them to shorten the
coat to a better length.
dont know who is going to get the bill, if its you, your tailor or if freeman is really free.
wish you good luck

I may have missed it, but I didn't see shortness at the top mentioned before. What symptom is this causing?

Thanks!

 

[Despos]



Can I get some input on whether you would send this back for a size smaller?  I'm primarily concerned by the dimples on the shoulders.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

Spoiler: More Pics

 

Can't see anything but black. The dimples on the sleeves are not related the jacket size

 

[aw82]

Can't see anything but black. The dimples on the sleeves are not related the jacket size

Yeah, sorry. My house is dark and the on-camera flash didn't help. The suit is actually charcoal in color. I'll take some more photos during the day outside.

If the dimples are not related to jacket size, what is the solution? It feels to me like it's a factor of the shoulder padding extending past my natural shoulder.

 

[Despos]

Thank you very much, a tailor and Despos.  Hopefully with your advice, I can get this to a satisfactory resolution.  If you don't mind, I do have a few follow up questions.  I never knew my posture was that unusual!

atailor covered this one well, I want to comment on the trouser as you don't have an easy to fit posture for trousers. Reverse pleats would work better for your build and body type. They need to take note of your right hip being higher and larger but some MTM programs don't go that far.

I would taper and shape the thigh/knee area and make the bottoms 1" wider, change to reverse pleats. On these trousers the fit is tight on your abdomen, 2" below the waistband seam but this is due to the way the waistband has been sewn onto the trouser. Removing the waistband and sewing it on properly, reshaping the leg would transform these.

Can you further explain the waistband issue?  In all my lurking here, I haven't seen this issue discussed before.   I guess I'll excise forward pleats in the future, though I prefer them in theory.  What exactly makes them not work for me?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Quote:

Diefenbaker

heres a second thought.

if the fabric is of H Freemans in stock of woolens, they may still have more yardage of it.

they can cut a new back that makes up for the shortness at the top. they will need the order

number inside the coat pocket. they can look up the cutting order to see how it was cut and

correct the problem. while they have the coat opened up you might ask them to shorten the

coat to a better length.

dont know who is going to get the bill, if its you, your tailor or if freeman is really free.

wish you good luck

I may have missed it, but I didn't see shortness at the top mentioned before.  What symptom is this causing? 

Thanks!

Forward pleats work best with a higher rise and someone with small hips and seat. This body type gets the best expression of regular pleats.
This waistband is sewn equal or looser than the trouser top and the trouser looks snug through the abdomen area. Proper sewing of the waistband is when the trouser top is drawn in over the hips and the waistband pulled tight. Gives a snug fit at the waist and and creates ease over the hips. The trouser would fit better, the pleats would have a better drape.

 

[Despos]



If the dimples are not related to jacket size, what is the solution?  It feels to me like it's a factor of the shoulder padding extending past my natural shoulder.

It is explained by jefferyd. It's the size/shape of the sleeve head fitting and matching the shape and size of the armhole. The armhole changes size and shape when you put the jacket on but it doesn't change in the same way on everyone. Someone with a different shape may not have this issue with the same jacket.

 

[a tailor]



Thank you very much, a tailor and Despos.  Hopefully with your advice, I can get this to a satisfactory resolution.  If you don't mind, I do have a few follow up questions.  I never knew my posture was that unusual!
Can you further explain the waistband issue?  In all my lurking here, I haven't seen this issue discussed before.   I guess I'll excise forward pleats in the future, though I prefer them in theory.  What exactly makes them not work for me?

Quote:
I may have missed it, but I didn't see shortness at the top mentioned before.  What symptom is this causing? 

Thanks!

please excuse me, my mistake. that was suppose to be an answer to R DIAZ not for you.

 

[a tailor]



Hi,

I finally picked up my first MTM suit. I was stupid enough to inadvertently stand more erect than usual when being measured, and the result is a slightly off balance, more precisely, a short back (funny, I get just the opposite with RTW). I can fix it completely it by pulling on the back of the jacket a bit, but then I obviously get a little collar gap. Tailor says he can't fix the balance, but since it's a first try, it's a casual suit and it's not off by much (I can always stand more erect when wearing it, lol) I decided to keep it.
Future commissions will of course get this fixed, and I'm happy because everything else fits great and once we get this sorted out, future suits will look really good.

Question is, is a short back really not fixable? I want to trust my tailor, but I need some more opinions. Since pulling on the jacket kinda solves it, but creates a collar gap, would the collar gap be fixable instead?

The main problem is that the back of the skirt is flaring out, but the vents aren't opening, so maybe there are alternative solutions like shaping the back seam a bit?

I'm sorry I'm not providing pictures but my camera is wrecked, and my crappy cell phone won't help much... just want to know if a short back / collar gap is fixable... thanks.

R DIAZ just a thought
if more cloth is available a new back can be cut to replace the short one.
dont know what the cost would be. contact the m2m company..