Suit Jacket/Blazer FitnAdvice

[FLtheatretech]

Hi SF Members, I’m seeking some advice. I’ve been trying to find a new blazer and suit. My work/life doesn’t afford me many opportunities to wear tailored clothing, that being said, I still want to get something that’s high quality and fits me well. Last October, I went to a trunk show for a major player out of Canada who makes full canvas garments. The results were not very good with even the store I purchased from aghast at the results. I went to another men’s wear store and was sold OTR full canvas garments within my budget. The store performed alterations and I took the blazer home. At the store, the owner insisted that the backs of both garments were “clean”. When I got home, a family member helped me take photos that showed me the back side of the garments. To me, they’re hardly “clean” and don’t seem to fit very well. Pictures are attached below. (There are other issues with the fit as well.)

As you can tell, my right shoulder slopes more than my left. This causes pretty terrible wrinkling on the backs of the coats. Fortunately, I was refunded for both garments. Is my sloped shoulder something that can only be fixed with a MTM or bespoke garment? The retailer I bought these from seemed unable to get the backs cleaned up, no matter how many alterations were attempted. At this point, I’m trying to figure out if I need to go to NYC for something MTM (thinking Greenfield) or if I should start hunting for a deal on something very nice and put effort into finding a top notch alterations tailor. Thanks for any advice you have!

 

[papado]

Hi SF Members, I’m seeking some advice. I’ve been trying to find a new blazer and suit. My work/life doesn’t afford me many opportunities to wear tailored clothing, that being said, I still want to get something that’s high quality and fits me well. Last October, I went to a trunk show for a major player out of Canada who makes full canvas garments. The results were not very good with even the store I purchased from aghast at the results. I went to another men’s wear store and was sold OTR full canvas garments within my budget. The store performed alterations and I took the blazer home. At the store, the owner insisted that the backs of both garments were “clean”. When I got home, a family member helped me take photos that showed me the back side of the garments. To me, they’re hardly “clean” and don’t seem to fit very well. Pictures are attached below. (There are other issues with the fit as well.)

As you can tell, my right shoulder slopes more than my left. This causes pretty terrible wrinkling on the backs of the coats. Fortunately, I was refunded for both garments. Is my sloped shoulder something that can only be fixed with a MTM or bespoke garment? The retailer I bought these from seemed unable to get the backs cleaned up, no matter how many alterations were attempted. At this point, I’m trying to figure out if I need to go to NYC for something MTM (thinking Greenfield) or if I should start hunting for a deal on something very nice and put effort into finding a top notch alterations tailor. Thanks for any advice you have!

I think this question may be better suited to the tailors feedback thread where some experts can give their opinions--but from what I see it looks like you have one shoulder higher/lower than the other and almost some sort of tilt in your back posture. I'd venture it'll be impossible to fix this with an OTR garment and even an intermediate level MTM garment. You'll need to use a maker who can adjust the shoulders/back/etc. so I would agree maybe a Martin Greenfield or similar tailor can address it within their patterns.

As an aside, I do feel like the front of the jacket looks pretty good and since most of us aren't photographed from the back directly (none of my photos with my face have the back of my jacket/sleeves showing ) I'd argue nit-picking over having a perfect back of a coat is something you should leave as a complaint for bespoke garments where you're paying top $$$ for perfection; sometimes you may have to admit an OTR garment won't hit all the marks given your physique.

But if it is something you want clean then you'll need to spend more money for a custom garment and go to a good tailor. Not worth wasting money on RTW/lower level MTM which can't adjust for your needs.