The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[The Dirty Pigeon]

I’m far from a professional, but have had a similar issue on a few jackets. A local bespoke tailor indicated it might be due to the chest being too tight and the structured shoulders not being shaped properly. The tailor did work on both which helped immensely, however it did not completely solve the issue and the jackets still require a tug every so often.

Sadly, I know that “tug” very well. I believe, in my case, the collar issue is due to a particularly rounded upper back that requires more fabric to span the upper back and lower rear neck but I’m not 100% sure. The chest is fairly roomy on this jacket.

 

[nevaeh]

Extended shoulders don’t have to look too big for you, particularly if they nail the rest of the measurements. Here’s an example of my normal width and extended side by side. You can see how the sleeves fall more straight down rather than curving slightly out.
View attachment 2146753 View attachment 2146755

That second coat looks spectacular. Who made it?

 

[JohnMRobie]

That second coat looks spectacular. Who made it?

Thanks. Both are from Sartoria Pastena Elegance.

 

[fullycaffed]

Looking for some guidance on fit for this jacket, this is a 44, wondering if the fit is close or if I should try a size down? I believe the sleeves are a bit long but other than that any issues of note?

thanks for your time!

 

[ericgereghty]

Pondering trying to "alter" patched hip pockets to jetted. Is this even possible? Is it insanely stupid if possible?

 

[othertravel]

Looking for some guidance on fit for this jacket, this is a 44, wondering if the fit is close or if I should try a size down? I believe the sleeves are a bit long but other than that any issues of note?

thanks for your time!

It looks too small.

 

[zr3rs]

Pondering trying to "alter" patched hip pockets to jetted. Is this even possible? Is it insanely stupid if possible?

My understanding is that it is possible if you can make the patterns fit, but that it is a hefty operation because you need to work through (or rework) the complete canvas layers...

 

[zr3rs]

Looking for some guidance on fit for this jacket, this is a 44, wondering if the fit is close or if I should try a size down? I believe the sleeves are a bit long but other than that any issues of note?

thanks for your time!

You should definitely not size down. Shoulder seems to be ok, so you would need to let out the waist a bit and shorten the sleeves slightly.

 

[ericgereghty]

My understanding is that it is possible if you can make the patterns fit, but that it is a hefty operation because you need to work through (or rework) the complete canvas layers...

It's a plain, so that part at least would be easy, buttttttt I'm very dubious the so called juice is worth the squeeze in this case. Would likely be smarter to go custom.

 

[Despos]

Pondering trying to "alter" patched hip pockets to jetted. Is this even possible? Is it insanely stupid if possible?

@ericgereghty
The main limiting factor is the wedge cut under the pocket. Look inside the existing pocket for a narrow strip of lining sewn about an inch or two below the top of the pocket. This strip is covering the cut thru the cloth. With besom or flap pockets the wedge is cut at the pocket placement. With patch pockets, the wedge is cut below the top of the pocket to hide the cut.
This cut line would have to be the position of the new besom pockets and it may be too low in relation to the hem of the jacket to look right. If the cut isn’t there it’s a non issue.
You might have enough cloth from the two patch pockets to make it work. You need 4 strips of cloth to make the 4 pipes. Hopefully you can get this from one pocket. The other pocket would be used to make facings for each pocket. if you need more cloth, it can be cut from the facing material below the buttons. Then replaced with other cloth. This makes a lot more work of it.
If there is canvass, it is cut away where the pipes are sewn, not a big deal. Takes a minute to do this.
It’s harder to make the pockets with the lining in place. Makes sewing a bit restrictive.
And, you need a tailor who will do the work.

 

[AriGold]

B&Tailor MTM, Cacciopolli Chocolate Brown Linen 360gsm

Collar gap needs to be fixed, hopefully they can do that.

Lapels are 10.5cm / 4.1” . Thinking of doing 4.3” / 11cm next time.

Any feedback welcome!

 

[jonathanS]

B&Tailor MTM, Cacciopolli Chocolate Brown Linen 360gsm

Collar gap needs to be fixed, hopefully they can do that.

Lapels are 10.5cm / 4.1” . Thinking of doing 4.3” / 11cm next time.

Any feedback welcome!

View attachment 2155585 View attachment 2155587 View attachment 2155589 View attachment 2155591

I like the lapels as they are. How does it feel to you? Looks nice overall (aside from the aforementioned collar gap.)

Not sure about the collar gap being difficult to tighten - on bespoke it’s an easy fix. But that’s bespoke.

how big was the collar gap on the mtm pattern?

 

[AriGold]

I like the lapels as they are. How does it feel to you? Looks nice overall (aside from the aforementioned collar gap.)

Not sure about the collar gap being difficult to tighten - on bespoke it’s an easy fix. But that’s bespoke.

how big was the collar gap on the mtm pattern?

So the way the MTM works with B&T is that there is actually a basted fitting with the collar adjusted during that fitting to be tightened. it seems, for some reason, when the finished suit arrived the collar gap was almost like it had not been adjusted/tightened during the basted fitting?

 

[jonathanS]

So the way the MTM works with B&T is that there is actually a basted fitting with the collar adjusted during that fitting to be tightened. it seems, for some reason, when the finished suit arrived the collar gap was almost like it had not been adjusted/tightened during the basted fitting?

View attachment 2155635

It’s almost like they did a + instead of a -

Did they take it back to adjust?

Was this in New York? Or Seoul?

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

So the way the MTM works with B&T is that there is actually a basted fitting with the collar adjusted during that fitting to be tightened. it seems, for some reason, when the finished suit arrived the collar gap was almost like it had not been adjusted/tightened during the basted fitting?

View attachment 2155635

I would love to hear about how they resolve this, if they do. I had an almost identical issue in my example quite a few posts back with a different made-to-measure provider. The first basted fitting was near perfect but needed some tweaks. After finishing, the collar was worse and stood away just like yours.