+ The Streetwear Suits and Blazers Thread +

[StanleyVanBuren]

Real talk, @StanleyVanBuren , I think that navy jacket is like a half-size big – there's not a crazy amount of drape/shoulder extension, but there's more than I think works for that cut. If you look at how the YSL wore suits in the '70s, they were extremely clean in the chest, and had narrow-but-strong/square shoulders.

I think that creates a different silhouette than most on here are used to seeing, with the flares. It's almost anti-Neapolitan: while that cut is skinny trousers that narrow you from the waist but a broadening jacket, doing a close-cut jacket with flared pants makes you narrower up top and wider down below. But since this has a touch too much drape, it makes you look a little wide in combination with the flares. So you're getting a signal-to-noise ratio here: you're doing a look that isn't really ascendant on this board, and getting "but it's not Neapolitan though," but I also think there's a useful note in some of what folks are saying.

Also, I'm not sure about the spread collar with the disco cues – I think a narrower spread with longer points would be more coherent, yeah? That, or the gorge height is a touch low on you.

@YRR92 I'm quoting your post over in this thread because I did find what you said helpful. You may notice above that I tried the blazer with a point collar. Here is another "lifestyle pic" that I shared in SW&D WAYWT:

I do think you're right that ultimately the blazer is maybe half a size big. I bought it expecting it to need a little tailoring, but even with it taken in, it's a little wide in the shoulders and full in the chest as you've noted, and further tailoring is probably going to exceed what this particular jacket could take without really throwing everything off. The suit jacket that matches the pants fits more snug in the shoulders and chest, for what it's worth.

I think your point about too much drape is probably a good one, and it's always helpful to hear about how such suits would have been styled in their day.

 

[hendrix]



How is Moore a worse Bond than Dalton

Dalton was one of the best.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

latest update: YSL suit worn with point collar shirt and YSL Rive Gauche tie (vintage and original as best as I can tell)

Luxire has offered to remake the collar to not be so narrow but I would need to send it back in for them to fit the new one exactly. I asked if they could just send me a replacement and I could have my tailor swap it out but they responded that it might not match the body of the shirt exactly and so since there is some trial and error involved, they need the shirt. Worth it?

Also the arms on the suit jacket still look a little billowy but I think that may be more of an issue of the drape of this particular fabric and not the cut itself. I think if I have them slimmed down more I may lose some movement and it seems like they only look large-ish from looking at it dead on from the front.

 

[Cotton Dockers]

Stanley, that last picture is the best use of the suit (or parts of the suit at least) that I've seen. Obviously you don't need to be snorting coke off of Elton John's piano to make that type of suit look good, but I think the more casual pose certainly helps.

FWIW - I don't think you need to slim the sleeves unless the billowiness bothers you while you wear it and detracts from your enjoyment. Doesn't look bad.

Question - is this suit (and any similar suit you might have made) going to be for work or play?

 

[Parker]

that tie really puts the gauche into Rive Gauche.

srly tho, the slight flare looks good on you. if it's your thing, let your freak flag fly man.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Question - is this suit (and any similar suit you might have made) going to be for work or play?

Both. I think several of the east coast guys over in CM would lose it at the suggestion that this could be worn for work, and I don't know if your practice is litigation so maybe you haven't noticed, but if you've spent any time in the Los Angeles Superior Court system, you'll have seen far more "creative" takes on what is appropriate courtroom dress than pants which are maybe a little wide. Downtown is the most formal of all the regular superior courts, but even there I still see the occasional tan suit, or olive green, and no one blinks an eye. I saw a guy wearing a too-tight blogger blue DB once, about a week after Pitti, and thought to ask if he'd just flown back from Florence but stopped short of being that much of a jerk. The older, seasoned veterans all seem unashamed to wear blacked-out sneakers with their suits, which I'm sure if asked they will say is on the recommendation of their doctors. Outside of downtown, in places like Van Nuys or Santa Monica, I see a lot more odd jacket/pants combos and a lot more earth tones.

I've already worn the suit to a couple of court appearances and depositions and have found it doesn't seem to be too extreme for anyone else I've encountered in Southern California so far. If I have it copied in a more city-friendly color like grey or navy, I think there would then be very few people who would actually notice there was something different about the cut.

Also once Luxire has the pattern and assuming they replicate it properly, I plan to order several pairs of pants (no jacket) in linen or linen blends that I can wear with fully-casual fits.

 

[Cotton Dockers]

Interesting. I work in-house so I never see the inside of a courtroom or a suit. Looking forward to see how this project progresses.

 

[robinsongreen68]

stanley, i would second parker's suggestion to look out for kilgour RTW suits from the carlo brandelli era, they can often be found on uk ebay. clean, structured shoulder, longer line coat and a slight taper to the trousers. very much that combination of formal with louche that you seem to be going for, and can be had for relatively cheap

 

[1969]

Looks good Stanley. I've been thumbing through old copies of Interview magazine from the eighties and some of it holds up better than I would have thought.

Would like to see different frames though....

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[Master-Classter]

SVB, an idea, I think something like a collar pin to prop up the fat tie could be interesting too

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[johnsams]

There are many people who hardly know the difference between a blazer and a suit jacket. A blazer refers to a solid colored jacket with metal buttons, whereas a suit jacket is a jacket of a suit which has matching trousers.

For youngsters and graduates who have just finished college, a transition from the college jeans, t-shirt, hoodie rut to the streetwear suits can really make one look transformed for better. A fresh graduate needs to reevaluate his clothing choices and find himself a nice blazer prior to commencing his professional journey. I did the same as well…

 

[Parker]

There are many people who hardly know the difference between a blazer and a suit jacket. A blazer refers to a solid colored jacket with metal buttons, whereas a suit jacket is a jacket of a suit which has matching trousers.

Regular readers of this thread however would surely already have read Arcane Details: Sidebar 1:

arcane details sidebar #1:

In case anyone didn't know already, the term blazer originated with the bright, and often striped, jackets worn by English university boating clubs in the 1800s. The bright colors apparently "blazed in the sun". Blazers were kind of the NFL or English Premier League team jerseys of the day, worn to "gentlemen's sporting events" like regattas or rowing races. Today, you'll still see the influence of the blazer in sports -- e.g. the Masters green blazer, the US Olympic Team opening ceremonies costumes, the gold ABC newscaster blazer, etc. The typical navy blue jacket with metal buttons that we all know as a blazer is actually derived from naval uniforms and was originally called a reefer jacket -- usually double breasted and worn by sailors for harsh weather. Probably made in heavy melton wool. These jackets evolved over the years into the modern dark blazer with metal buttons that you'll see racks of at Brooks Bros. or Jos. A. Banks. The term sport coat was used for jackets originally worn for land-based sports like hunting, riding horses or "going to college in the 1950s". Colorful striped blazers had a comeback when Mods adopted them in the early 1960s, and maybe with Thom Browne and his fellow neo-trads in the 2000s.

Since the 1980s, most people (outside of the clothing geeks) -- including retailers and magazines -- have used the term blazer to describe almost any suit-style jacket that does not have a pair of matching pants. After all, no one is playing -- let alone watching -- sports in these kind of jackets any longer, and blazer just kind of sounds cooler than sport coat. Though I propose we start using the term reefer more often.

end of sidebar.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Not sure where to post this so posting here again.

I did a quick photoshop mockup of some modifications to my Epaulet jacket:

- wider lapels
- longer length (and correspondingly slightly lower buttoning point
- 2-button (instead of 3-roll-2)
- hacking pockets

my questions are (1) would lapels this wide (approximately 9cm) be too out of proportion with my frame, and (2) slanted/hacking pockets, yes/no?

Original:


Photoshop:

 

[Parker]

Both look good to me. Personal preference. I prefer a thin lapel and maybe slightly thinner tie, no slant flaps. (Unless it's a more military English cut suit). Looking good dude!

 

[Superb0bo]

uncertain of where to post, so..

I have a 2 button sports jacket in Harris tweed. Given the weight of the fabric, i´ve mostly worn it as outerwear, which makes the 2 button situation weird - i would like to cover up more when its cold. Would it be possible/adviceable to turn it into a 3 button jacket, sort of a 3-2 roll thing? So i could button the added top button and "pop the collar" when cold? Or is it just stupid?