The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Johnmdub]

And a question for @Andy57 if you don’t mind, I’ve seen pictures of you wearing what looks like a textured plain front shirt with your ivory jacket (I’ve been scouring these many pages for inspiration, so it was from 7/8 years ago), with a very simple looking placket.
Would you know the one I mean, and who made it?

 

[Andy57]

On the topic of shirts/studs….

Heres the situation, black tie optional wedding this weekend. Weather looks nice, so I’m going with off white shawl lapel DJ, with pleated front shirt. Do I go Casablanca and use the shell buttons that came with the shirt, or go with studs?

Studs. Never buttons.

 

[Andy57]

And a question for @Andy57 if you don’t mind, I’ve seen pictures of you wearing what looks like a textured plain front shirt with your ivory jacket (I’ve been scouring these many pages for inspiration, so it was from 7/8 years ago), with a very simple looking placket.
Would you know the one I mean, and who made it?

It was probably a Marcella front shirt made by Hemrajani (now Divij Bespoke). Hemrajani made a couple of shirts like that for me, that is to say Marcella front with no placket. Technically, a shirt like that is meant to be white-tie, but I was not bothered by that. Budd, however, more or less refuses to make a shirt with a Marcella front and no placket. If I've not answered the question, send me a picture of the shirt in question and I can be definitive.

 

[upr_crust]

Here's a photo taken by one of the Cunard's photographers last Friday (2024/05/10), from the second gala evening on the Queen Mary 2, with Cunard's most fortuitous choice of floral arrangement to coordinate with my dinner jacket.

 

[Johnmdub]

It was probably a Marcella front shirt made by Hemrajani (now Divij Bespoke). Hemrajani made a couple of shirts like that for me, that is to say Marcella front with no placket. Technically, a shirt like that is meant to be white-tie, but I was not bothered by that. Budd, however, more or less refuses to make a shirt with a Marcella front and no placket. If I've not answered the question, send me a picture of the shirt in question and I can be definitive.

That sounds like it. Interesting that they just don’t do it. Looks great anyway. I’m leaning towards a marcella shirt for my next one as well,
How do those that have used them rate Proper Cloth? Any recommendations on shirts in general?

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Marcella front with no placket. Technically, a shirt like that is meant to be white-tie, but I was not bothered by that. Budd, however, more or less refuses to make a shirt with a Marcella front and no placket.

I had no idea that the no placket style is meant for white tie. My Marcella front shirts from Luxire don’t have a placket by default and they just seem right to me.

 

[Johnmdub]

The proper cloth ones look the same

 

[Johnmdub]

What would a 120s 2ply twill be like for shirt fabric with marcella bib? Am I better sticking with a broadcloth? Looking at proper cloth, seems like good value, open to suggestions in Europe though

 

[Andy57]

I had no idea that the no placket style is meant for white tie. My Marcella front shirts from Luxire don’t have a placket by default and they just seem right to me.

Neither did I. I prefer the cleaner look of no placket on a marcella shirt, but it's not a big enough deal to me to bother about.

 

[Andy57]

What would a 120s 2ply twill be like for shirt fabric with marcella bib? Am I better sticking with a broadcloth? Looking at proper cloth, seems like good value, open to suggestions in Europe though

It depends on your expected usage. I have a marcella front shirt with the shirt body made from a very lightweight voile. It's great in the warmer months. I also have one with the body made from some sort of regular poplin and it's fine, too.

Personally, I'd recommend using the lightest weight cotton your maker is able to offer. Remember, the body of the shirt is visible to no one.

 

[Mute]

What would a 120s 2ply twill be like for shirt fabric with marcella bib? Am I better sticking with a broadcloth? Looking at proper cloth, seems like good value, open to suggestions in Europe though

I had Proper Cloth make me one with a no placket marcella bib using a Thomas Mason poplin for the body. They did a fine job overall. Before you make something so specific with Proper Cloth though, I do recommend getting your sizing dialed in with a less expensive cloth to start off. I didn't get my size down to my satisfaction until the third shirt (no fault of PC. There was some shrinkage, especially in the cuffs after laundering).

 

[shootsfilmwithbullet]

Personally, I'd recommend using the lightest weight cotton your maker is able to offer. Remember, the body of the shirt is visible to no one.

Maybe a younger thing but every black tie wedding I’ve been to eventually sees the men de-jacketing for the dance floor.

 

[Johnmdub]

I had Proper Cloth make me one with a no placket marcella bib using a Thomas Mason poplin for the body. They did a fine job overall. Before you make something so specific with Proper Cloth though, I do recommend getting your sizing dialed in with a less expensive cloth to start off. I didn't get my size down to my satisfaction until the third shirt (no fault of PC. There was some shrinkage, especially in the cuffs after laundering).

Makes sense, but don’t think I have the budget between now and the wedding. Have just recently changed my outfit plans altogether and have a few bits to get.
Open to off the rack suggestions, 150/200 euro, if anyone has any reliable tips?
Also need/want quite wide trousers, my own black pair, though very nice 50s pair, are slimmer than I want this time.
anyone bought from Clermont Direct in UK? Do a barathea wool trouser for less than 100

 

[shootsfilmwithbullet]

First remake at PC is free too

 

[Johnmdub]

First remake at PC is free too

Oh, that changes it a bit - I’m sure would be grand