The Official Temple of Jawnz Thread

[impolyt_one]

Single needle in nice cottons is definitely where it's at. We probably can't put natural MOP on these at the price we want to have them out at (we're gonna stay double-digit pricing on these shirts) because the price to performance ratio isn't there... but we have seen MOP and we might change our minds on that if we find out they don't cost too much more. There are literally millions of buttons for us to choose from so we will find something good.

They told us the grey lamb was in stock, then we went there yesterday and told us it'll take 10 days... which means it's probably coming from New Zealand to us. Kinda of sucks because we hustled to get like a G of zippers custom ordered to match and were ready to make BrianSD's jacket so we could get a sample of that up...

Which reminds me that a lot of our fabrics and stuff, as I had mentioned before, I am learning that they are actually imported. We have a huge domestic textiles industry here but I guess certain things are better from specializing countries; ie. leathers from Italy, wools from Italian and Australian mills, etc. Leather stuff is always imported. Fabrics are kinda 50/50 but some things are done better here than elsewhere. YKK zips are Japanese and I am beginning to take a real shine to them, they have a satisfying rubbery crunch that Lampos don't have and that Riri's have, but the YKK's feel heaviest, and on most of my clothes, I think that is a benefit. Leather jackets benefit from a heavier zipper feel IMO, too light or too slick and it's disconcerting to me.

Trousers will be clean. I always need good non-Uniqlo trousers at a decent price that aren't old-man status too, that's why I am pushing for them. The first release of trousers will be our narrow tapered leg fit, a basic trouser, and then we have a couple more surprises up that alley for later.

It's too late to call this a FW09 collection really, so a lot of the stuff is going to carry over as non-seasonal clothing perpetually and we'll just mix n match fabrics. I see people liking an item and then being able to order a different color or pattern, etc. Shirts and pants, mainly, is what I'm referring to there. Someday when we can take a break from pushing out clothes we'll shoot a lookbook, get the house all polished up, etc.

 

[wagthesam]

How is the fit going to be like? I have shoulders more suited to the outerwear (19/20 p2p and 18 shoulder to shoulder). Will these fit me or should I not be expecting to fit in these?

 

[Biscotti]

These shirts sound nice; it's great to see an affordable option. I wouldn't bother with MOP buttons if they will jack up the price, isn't worth it imo.

 

[impolyt_one]

Ok.... leather jackets are in for order at the workshop, up to the ones paid for currently, plus a new one for aqhong. Now it's just a waiting game for all of us, both workshops are two-person cutter/sewer teams and one might be marginally faster than the other, but there's a limitation to their speed. The patience pays off though, these might be the last leather jackets you may want.

 

[impolyt_one]

As for winter wool series, it's coming. Very soon. Sample pea up in less than a week if it's up to snuff, and then duffle very soon after. Once the sample goes up, pre-orders will be taken for just a few days.

Here are the details:
-slim fit, modern height armholes. Room for light layering in your true size.
-a more traditional length, covering your crotch and butt
-a slightly more aggressive collar with a mildly technical collar stand band, and lapels with a deeper gorge to allow for a semi-crown collar when flipped up, without the wild flyaway lapels
-NO epaulets
-single pair of front slash pockets with a generous height opening, for gloved hands
-6+1 button front closure, wrist tabs
-single American vent

Construction
-Wool/cashmere blend, 90/10. If you have bought some of my products before, you will be familiar with this kind of fabric. It is incredibly luxurious and by all accounts, can handle some mild weather so long as you air dry it and sometimes use your hand to pat the grain out.
-Leather trim.
-a high quality front/collar canvassing to give it some solidity and a slight stiffness, more on that later

First color(s):
-black. There were calls for a heathered grey Pea so we may insert a very small length of micro-Herringbone (better than a heather IMO) in if we can do it without re-threading machines, it's probably possible, so 80% might be black and 20% might be Hbone. I want both for myself so I'm pushing for that to happen.

Sizing:
-We will begin our ALL NEW sizing (to be made uniform for all our clothes as they come out in the future), and once again I want to size these from the shoulders, they will have a slightly strong dignified shoulder look to them (no roping or pagoda effect though, just a genuinely nice solid shoulder) and go from 16", 17", 18", 19", and 20" s2s, measured as a tailored coat is. p2p is generous enough to fit most people and sleeve length is an average of all my size data for the past 4 or 5 months, so it should do most people very well. 16" s2s is up in the air, but that would be an XXS if so, and 20" s2s would be an XL.
There will also be tall sizes from S (17" s2s) to L, 19" s2s, that add length to the body and sleeves for the lankier taller guys. It's an already slim coat but the tall sizes are necessary. Shorter guys, we can pre-tailor for an added fee, or you may buy a small size and tailor as necessary locally, the bottom hem has a good amount of plain space to allow for some length adjustments.


Pricing:
-Special pre-order price: $325 shipped worldwide via EMS.
- Regular in-stock price, after pre-orders are completed: $375 shipped EMS. The reason for the price increase is that I need to rent storage space to hold stock, and storage space in this city is dear, I have to rent a residential space.


Pre-orders will be taken for a few days, the actual run will take 14-15 days, and shipping will be 3-4 days to anywhere in the world, so we're looking at like 3rd week of November deliveries if paid for in the pre-order.

The duffle coat and possibly a couple other winter pieces will follow soon and follow suit. Duffle with similar design details and specs, in a different form factor.

 

[constant struggle]

Damn i'll never be able to buy one of your products if they are always so set 17 s2s 18s2s...
Those of us inbetween are screwed! 18s2s is too big for me, 17s2s too small :\\

 

[chronoaug]

I haven't measured myself in forever but i usually thoguht i was 19.5pp as well so how are you a 18, CS? Are you talking true measurements or measuring a shirt? I'm guessing that with the thickness of the material and need for layering that i'd be able to get away with 20pp i dunno.


$325 is a very attractive price for a fall/winter coat. Can't wait to see it

 

[ahjota]

Why are you guys talking about p2p when impolyt is talking about s2s?

 

[chronoaug]

lol. i saw cs start saying pp and get confooseed. yea, shoulder makes sense. i'm game with 17 i'd imagine. I knew something was up as there was no way cs had a 17.5 chest measurement

 

[mustard]

Any chance of describing the duffle as well so people considering one or the other can decide on the pea before the pre-order is up?

 

[james nicolas]

i know i want a leather jacket, but every fit pic i see changes my mind of which one i want
they all look good

 

[impolyt_one]

When I go by the shoulder to shoulder, I am talking about the shoulder head being on top of the outer shoulder point, it is very different than a shirt fit obviously. You want to do that for the layering room and to fit smoothly over something like a knit or possibly even a compact blazer/suit, and you want this to fit with the same straight-down arm look that I have been putting out thus far as it'll look insanely clean, modern, and semi-structured. The shoulder head rolls off from the shoulder naturally and very flush and cleanly so don't worry about high shoulders or anything like that.

The 16/17/18/19/20-XXS-XL is within a natural, TTS range, you will find. As pea coats don't taper too much, the chest and sleeves should fit almost everyone but the most brolic dudes.

Arms are once again slightly curved out with a bit more centrally inward animation this time, so the on-hanger look is going to be splendid.



Here, once again is how the TOJ line will be sized from here on out:

Outerwear: s2s priority
Shirting: shoulders riding slightly upon the shoulder, sizing is p2p priority
Pants: waists will be almost exactly TTS in inches, to ride on/near hips with a medium rise.
Shoes: to maker's specifications

 

[constant struggle]

**** sorry meant s2s not p2p...
yeah chrono im about the same p2p as you... i think you have slightly smaller shoulders though



edit:


Also are pants going to come in odd sizes at all (31,33,etc)

 

[Nil]

That's a fantastic price. All I ask is that you have the duffle sample up before you cut off the preorders for the peacoat. I can only cop one jacket and I'm still debating between those two and the leather.

 

[impolyt_one]

Originally Posted by mustard

Any chance of describing the duffle as well so people considering one or the other can decide on the pea before the pre-order is up?

The duffle is not a true duffle as I've said before, I know a lot of guys want toggled closure, patch pockets, Americana, shoulder patches; I don't want any of that because they come and go easier that way, and I think they look juvenile, and we're shaping a certain look here.


The duffle will have the same build/tech specs as the pea above essentially, same sleeve/shoulder/armhole pattern as the pea, actually.

The actual look will be this; it's an SB wool overcoat, 3/4 length to ride a few inches above the kneecap, with a traditional small collar, slash hand pockets, hidden button placket. The hood will be button-off, 3-5 paneled with a pretty good size and 3D shape, and chin/mouth coverage. Single vented back, same slim silhouette as the pea but extended to the longer length. Leather trim as with the Pea.
This means it can work for you as a ultra clean hooded duffle silhouette, or button off the hood (buttons will be hidden under the collar) and wear it as a very traditional SB wool/cashmere overcoat. It should prove to give you some mileage over time, both the pea and duffle.
I expect most people will go for one or the other and not both, so I made both within the same series and of same materials, so the decision would be based on silhouette, mainly. We will of course run them again next year, in a tweaked format (prob colors/materials) so if you miss one or both this year you have a chance at them again next year as well.