**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[JFWR]

Thanks for a very informative and helpful response. Intended use is a very valid question! These would be my go-to outdoorsy boots for the colder months (half a size larger to accomodate thicker socks). So they would be subject to heavy fall and winter rains for sure, as well as snow and slush, with temperatures down to -10 C, but also shorter, say 2-3 hours hikes in the woods. No need for a spit shine finish on these, I just want the best protection possible. I do have proper hiking boots as well, but hope to be able to leave them in the closet as much as possible, unless more serious hikes are called for.

Then be -slightly- heavier on the neetsfoot or shoe oil. You could also use mink oil. And by "slightly" heavier, I mean -slightly-. Less is more here. You can always put on more, but you cannot take off the oil you put on.

The wax isn't needed for shine here but the protection. Given you anticipate really heavy use in crappy conditions, I would actually suggest the fire waxing.

Here's how you do it so as to not ruin the tin:

Take a spoon and remove a portion of the wax from the tin.

Take a lighter or match and light the wax on fire.

Blow out after, oh, 10 seconds or so.

Now apply to the shoe and let dry for 15 minutes.

Of course, let the wax not be boiling hot to the touch, and use a rag you really don't mind tossing afterwards as it is going to be coated in heavy waxes.

After one layer, then just apply wax as normal and shine not to just shine the shoes, but to actually just protect them. The wax is extremely water resistant.

 

[JFWR]

Oh and one last thing: Snow and slush? Not really that big of a concern. Mud and rain? Not that much of a concern. Salt? VERY MUCH A CONCERN. As much as possible, avoid slush puddles because of the salt.

 

[7_rocket]

Gents. I have not read this entire thread but I have a question. I want to from the oils and waxes from my Grant stone CXL boots because I want to dye them a darker colour. Is this Acetone nail polish remover sufficient enough? Or do I need something else?

 

[Gustaf]

Then be -slightly- heavier on the neetsfoot or shoe oil. You could also use mink oil. And by "slightly" heavier, I mean -slightly-. Less is more here. You can always put on more, but you cannot take off the oil you put on.

The wax isn't needed for shine here but the protection. Given you anticipate really heavy use in crappy conditions, I would actually suggest the fire waxing.

Here's how you do it so as to not ruin the tin:

Take a spoon and remove a portion of the wax from the tin.

Take a lighter or match and light the wax on fire.

Blow out after, oh, 10 seconds or so.

Now apply to the shoe and let dry for 15 minutes.

Of course, let the wax not be boiling hot to the touch, and use a rag you really don't mind tossing afterwards as it is going to be coated in heavy waxes.

After one layer, then just apply wax as normal and shine not to just shine the shoes, but to actually just protect them. The wax is extremely water resistant.

Thanks! I am actually familiar with fire waxing as that was what we used in the army during my military service, many many years ago. Haven’t used that method since. Will be fun!

 

[JFWR]

Gents. I have not read this entire thread but I have a question. I want to from the oils and waxes from my Grant stone CXL boots because I want to dye them a darker colour. Is this Acetone nail polish remover sufficient enough? Or do I need something else?

You cannot remove the oils from CXL. If you do, you will literally destroy the leather.

 

[7_rocket]

You cannot remove the oils from CXL. If you do, you will literally destroy the leather.

Conditioner and wax build up then. Or what do you recommend? I have a cleaner that says it can be used on leather but wanted to confirm if Acetone would be okay

 

[JFWR]

Conditioner and wax build up then. Or what do you recommend? I have a cleaner that says it can be used on leather but wanted to confirm if Acetone would be okay

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Saddle soap should suffice, dye it, then condition them again. I have no idea how well they will take dye, but it is conceivably possible to dye CXL.

 

[goatamous II]

Hello all
i'm sure it's been asked before

what product would you recommend for scuffs on white leather sneakers (example: Common Projects)

my mind goes to Saphir because that's what i use 98% of the time on dress shoes, but i'm wondering if it's overkill for a white sneaker.

any help would be great!

EDIT
i'll rephrase my question after some googling

looks like there's the Saphir Juvacuir or the Saphir Novelys.
Does anybody have any experience with either of those, and also open to a completely different option as well.

 

[VedicResearcher]

You cannot remove the oils from CXL. If you do, you will literally destroy the leather.

Gents. I have not read this entire thread but I have a question. I want to from the oils and waxes from my Grant stone CXL boots because I want to dye them a darker colour. Is this Acetone nail polish remover sufficient enough? Or do I need something else?

Hello!

Speaking from my own exp of dying and patinaing shoes, I have some advice. If there's not a lot of wax of grime buildup, I would recommend using fiebings and then using Saphir Renomat (heads up it'll remove some of the dye).


If you're looking to redo an entire shoes patina (I've done this) and want to go to a darker or lighter color etc etc. I'm about to give you some life changing wisdom.

Don't buy the acetone, spare yourself the pain that will come from buy several bottles and the very very slow removal of build up. I made that mistake and I profoundly regret not biting the bullet and just buying Saphir Decapant.

Please do yourself a favor and don't make the same mistake I did. I recommend shoemedic.com

They sell it to both America and Canada and they also stock 500ml bottles. Which I know seems pricey but I promise it's worth it. Also please wear gloves, do this in a well ventilated area, and I would recommend using q-tips for more control. I bought a bunch from Costco.

Also last piece of advice is to work *with* the grain of the leather when you're removing the wax and grime. Good luck!

 

[CWV]

I’ve been trying to high shine the toe box of my Vass, but
there are some rougher points that I can not make smooth with wax and therefore don’t shine.
I think those point might have suffered some abrasion due to bumps.
any suggestion? I have little experience in hogh shining shoes n

 

[JFWR]

I’ve been trying to high shine the toe box of my Vass, but
there are some rougher points that I can not make smooth with wax and therefore don’t shine.
I think those point might have suffered some abrasion due to bumps.
any suggestion? I have little experience in hogh shining shoes n

Pictures would help. What it sounds like is actually some moisture, not rougher parts. If so, you're going to have to wait for the leather to dry before trying to shine them.

 

[CWV]

Here are some pics

Pictures would help. What it sounds like is actually some moisture, not rougher parts. If so, you're going to have to wait for the leather to dry before trying to shine them.

The second pic should show the hazyness but it wasn’t really picked by the camera

This is the other shoe

 

[JFWR]

Here are some pics

View attachment 2065397 View attachment 2065399


The second pic should show the hazyness but it wasn’t really picked by the camera

View attachment 2065401

This is the other shoe

Wait a few days. It most likely is moisture. That's what usually causes these polish-bald spaces. The leather can't really get shiny if wet enough that it is saturated. I've had this exact problem.

Don't worry: the leather is fine.

Do me a favour, though: Please don't mess around with it for at least four days. Let it dry. Then we'll see what we can do about it.

 

[CWV]

Wait a few days. It most likely is moisture. That's what usually causes these polish-bald spaces. The leather can't really get shiny if wet enough that it is saturated. I've had this exact problem.

Don't worry: the leather is fine.

Do me a favour, though: Please don't mess around with it for at least four days. Let it dry. Then we'll see what we can do about it.

Ok I’ll do as you suggest I’ll still new to add water when polishing, won’t I?.
Does wet lesther feel rougher at touch?

 

[nevaeh]

Wait a few days. It most likely is moisture. That's what usually causes these polish-bald spaces. The leather can't really get shiny if wet enough that it is saturated. I've had this exact problem.

Don't worry: the leather is fine.

Do me a favour, though: Please don't mess around with it for at least four days. Let it dry. Then we'll see what we can do about it.

JFWR is right. Making the leather so wet that it’s saturated has happened to me. Let the shoes dry naturally for a few days by putting in shoe trees and leaving the shoes alone; don’t force drying by, for instance, putting them next to a heater.