The best Oxford shirt

[NautOfEarth]

How does O'Connell's fare vs. the others mentioned here?

 

[Harwid]

What is this "day and age" you speak of?

For me about the last 50 years.

A shorter time for most people.

A cleaner modern look:
Spread collars
No cuffs on pants
No vests
And so forth.

Jeff

 

[Funcheese]

For me about the last 50 years.

A shorter time for most people.

A cleaner modern look:
Spread collars
No cuffs on pants
No vests
And so forth.

Jeff

Clean and modern is exactly what I’m pushing against. You won’t catch me in a vest but you’ll also never catch me in our “clean” and “modern” look influenced by tech industry and the general “dressing down” we’ve experienced these recent years. As for button-down collars; they stand up and frame my face well. A proper collar-roll adds a bit of sensuality.

 

[pasadena man]

Thought I'd provide an example of the collars from Drake's/Kamakura and how they compare to a vintage Brooks OCBD I have.

Vintage Brooks Brothers (dated late 50s/early 60s re: Sean from Crowley Vintage):
View attachment 1990743

Drake's:
View attachment 1990745

Kamakura Vintage Ivy:
View attachment 1990749

Very nice side by side comparison. I have owned various BB OCBD's over decades. Kamakura has been my go to for the last few years. I've only handled the Drake's at a trunk sale. Although I favor Kamakura I think both the Drake's and BB have a better, higher, collar roll. The Kamakura vintage Ivy collar points are quite short. I think it is decidedly better without a tie. Kamakura also has a very soft, rustic, hand in comparison with the BB's harder finish. The Kamakura feels worn in out of the box; it reminds me of RRL Officer's khakis that way.

 

[pasadena man]

I just don’t understand wearing a Button Down collar in this day and age.

Jeff

I have been wearing more OCBDs over the last decade, in part in reaction to increased casualization.

The OCBD probably works best of any collar type with my build. I have a long neck and big head. The higher OCBD collar provides a better head/neck/shoulders balance and frames my face well.

If casualization makes it harder to wear a tie and suit or sports coat, the OCBD becomes more attractive to me when just wearing shirt and slacks. As mentioned, the BD collar frames my face better, particularly without a tie. The oxford cloth provides textural interest that might otherwise be provided by a tie or SC. The stand-up BD collar reads to me as a more tailored, “architectonic”, look, which I yearn for when not wearing a jacket.

To paraphrase William Wallace: “They may take away our suits, they may take away our sports coats, but they will never take away our OCBDs!”

Of course, he was Scottish, so YMMV.

 

[Harwid]

Clean and modern is exactly what I’m pushing against. You won’t catch me in a vest but you’ll also never catch me in our “clean” and “modern” look influenced by tech industry and the general “dressing down” we’ve experienced these recent years. As for button-down collars; they stand up and frame my face well. A proper collar-roll adds a bit of sensuality.

I have worn nothing but spread collar dress shirts for 50 years; nothing to do with tech industry or dressing down. A button down collar is more casual.

I am always going to be over dressed not underdressed. I love clothes and only wear clothes that make me feel good. If I do wear casual clothes and shoes I am going to think about every piece I put on. I purchased more dress shoes during COVID than any other time in my life.

Jeff

 

[Egdon Heath]

I just don’t understand wearing a Button Down collar in this day and age.

Jeff

There's a lot of stuff you as a 76-year-old may not understand, and maybe some of it should be kept to yourself, to avoid being thought of as dim. I know about this. I'm 78.

 

[7_rocket]

I'm a big fan of Spier and Mackay's Italian button down collar.

I rarely ever need/want to wear suits so I prefer to wear a button down collar because it adds more visual interest when wearing chinos and jeans with a sweater over

 

[multiccy-csa]

I recently picked up two Drakes oxfords and I’m finding the shoulders to be uncomfortably narrow. They sit at least half inch higher up my shoulder on each side compared to Borrelli, JPress, or Brooks.

I wanted to like them — the hand on the fabric is soft and incredible and the collar is lovely. The body and sleeves were a nice cut —not too slim not too billowy. Unfortunately, the shoulders are cramped and uncomfortable and with a jacket off, I look like I’m wearing a much too slim shirt from 2010. I’m 6ft ~160 so not a large frame either. Don’t know how you all fit into these.

if there was something in the ~200 range with the hand and collar of drakes with wider shoulders I’d be all over it.

Interesting comment re. the shoulders. I haven't found that. I tend to find i prefer a relatively 'tight' fit across my shoulders but then i think i'm (unfortunately) narrow-shouldered, so perhaps Drake's work well for me on that (additional) count.

 

[jeremygo]

Flannel is super underrated, love my flannel shirts.

Gitman's flannels are easily some of my favorite shirts I own. Legitimately like walking around in the world's coziest blanket.

No longer in stock at their site but this is the one I wear all winter long:

GITMAN VINTAGE - WINTER COTTON TWEED CHECK

GITMAN VINTAGE - WINTER COTTON TWEED CHECK If winter were a flannel... It just might be this one! Heavyweight cotton tweed is woven into a complex six-tone houndstooth that gently radiates wintry vibes. Plus, the 7oz Japan-sourced fabric is sure to keep you warm on even the coldest days. Pair...

www.solarmtp.com

 

[Iskander]

Gitman's flannels are easily some of my favorite shirts I own. Legitimately like walking around in the world's coziest blanket.

No longer in stock at their site but this is the one I wear all winter long:

GITMAN VINTAGE - WINTER COTTON TWEED CHECK

GITMAN VINTAGE - WINTER COTTON TWEED CHECK If winter were a flannel... It just might be this one! Heavyweight cotton tweed is woven into a complex six-tone houndstooth that gently radiates wintry vibes. Plus, the 7oz Japan-sourced fabric is sure to keep you warm on even the coldest days. Pair...

www.solarmtp.com

Are GBV shirts the length for tucking or no?

 

[jeremygo]

Are GBV shirts the length for tucking or no?

Definitely long enough for tucking in but not so long it looks odd or silly untucked, especially in a casual fabric like flannel.

 

[sargeinaz]

I'm a big fan of Spier and Mackay's Italian button down collar.

I rarely ever need/want to wear suits so I prefer to wear a button down collar because it adds more visual interest when wearing chinos and jeans with a sweater over

I wish it had a box pleat in the back. Super bummer to me that it doesn’t.

 

[kid1002]

Has anyone tried the latest Uniqlo OCBD shirts? It looks like to me from afar that they have slightly longer collar rolls now (longer as in longer than it's past iterations).

 

[Trevallon]

I recently picked up two Drakes oxfords and I’m finding the shoulders to be uncomfortably narrow. They sit at least half inch higher up my shoulder on each side compared to Borrelli, JPress, or Brooks.

I wanted to like them — the hand on the fabric is soft and incredible and the collar is lovely. The body and sleeves were a nice cut —not too slim not too billowy. Unfortunately, the shoulders are cramped and uncomfortable and with a jacket off, I look like I’m wearing a much too slim shirt from 2010. I’m 6ft ~160 so not a large frame either. Don’t know how you all fit into these.

if there was something in the ~200 range with the hand and collar of drakes with wider shoulders I’d be all over it.

Have you tried sizing up? Drake's OCBDs look best when they "billow" a little bit. Took me some time (and money) to dial in the fit.

Also second all the Drake's advocates here. Best OCBD in my opinion. The most beautiful collar, at least to my eye.