Stretching my shoes - a true diary of torture

[coldsalmon]

"I am a sick man ... I am a spiteful man. I am an unattractive man. I think my liver is diseased."

- Fyodor Dostoevsky, Notes from Underground

What can a man do when his shoes - to whom he has given such love, such care - begin to torture him? He can do nothing but torture his shoes in return. Such is my sad condition.

As I have aged, my feet have gotten bigger, and most of my shoes are now too tight. I have also made the mistake of buying shoes that seem to fit perfectly, but only later reveal themselves to be a wee bit tight ... after I have worn them for a few days and can no longer return them. Because I try to be a frugal bastard, I have decided to try to stretch these shoes instead of just getting rid of them. I have thus purchased the medieval torture device known as the Houndsbay Bulldog shoe stretcher.

My right foot is significantly larger than my left, and it is only the right shoes that need stretching. In general, my right foot has two problem areas. First, my little toe, which can be addressed with the Houndsbay stretcher. Second, my fifth metatarsal tuberosity, aka the protrusion on the outside of the midfoot. The Houndsbay stretcher does not stretch this area of the shoe, so I have another small stretcher coming in the mail, which can be placed anywhere in the shoe.

The Condemned

My first victim is a pair of Allen Edmonds Park Avenue seconds, size 9.5EEE. I got these for about $160 several years ago, and I have always hated them. The 65 last has never fit me well, even in EEE width. They have gone from slightly too large to slightly too small. I will not mourn much if I ruin them.

The Punishment

I have decided to try the Houndsbay stretcher first without stretching liquid, just for the sake of science, so that I can compare it later to a stretch using stretching liquid.

My first step was to put on the shoe and mark the tight spots with chalk. I then put a plastic extender on the side of the stretcher in the region of the little toe. After inserting the stretcher and cranking it up to a snug fit, the extension was placed pretty accurately in the region of my little toe. Now I will wait a day or so and then test the shoe.

The midfoot stretch will have to wait until later, when the other stretcher arrives.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Eagerly awaiting updates! I've got a bunion so I am keen to see how well a stretcher works.

 

[madhat]

I would consider wearing them a while to get the leather warm and moist, or use the liquid you mentioned. Stretching on a shoe that hasn't been prepared as such is going to be more resistant to stretching and more likely to return to it's lasted state. Also, it is best to do it in phases, progressively adding more stretch each day.
Regardless of what you do, expect the shoes to contract back over time. You may have to periodically restretch them.
As an aside, if you're near an AE store, they'll stretch your AE for free. Can't stretch other brands in case they damage them by accident (tear, pulled thread, etc).

I've jammed a pen on the outside of my trees to make a bit more pinky toe room on a few pairs. Talking with my SA, we decided maybe I should glue one of those little bunion bits that come with stretchers on my tree for a more permanent solution. This would ensure the stretch is held after every wear; a make shift lasted shoe tree if you will. I'll get around to doing it at some point!

 

[comrade]

An almost sisyphean task. Much easier on loafers. I've never
been really successful with that type of device. A good cobbler
will probably do a better job.

 

[NycLondon]

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFkrQbvPDXMoYZMrtG4lFKw?app=desktop

This chap is amazing - addicted to giving new life to old shoes

 

[coldsalmon]

Thanks for all of the replies! It's been a little bit over two days, and I have just tried on the stretched shoe. Here it is with the stretcher in, and with the stretcher removed.

I can definitely see a little deformed bump in the target area, so some "progress" has been made. When trying them on, however, there is still not enough room for my little toe. Honestly, I can't tell much of a difference. When I examined the shoe more closely, I could see why this might be the case: the leather had not stretched at the base of the shoe near the welt, but only farther up. I've tried to show the difference in these two photos:

This is perhaps more of a problem for me than for others because of my odd little toe, which has been rotated sideways since birth. My father and my siblings have all inherited this from my grandmother.

Spoiler: Human foot

So perhaps my little toe doesn't point up in the air as much as most folks. Regardless, this phase has been a failure but has yielded some interesting data.

I would consider wearing them a while to get the leather warm and moist, or use the liquid you mentioned. Stretching on a shoe that hasn't been prepared as such is going to be more resistant to stretching and more likely to return to it's lasted state. Also, it is best to do it in phases, progressively adding more stretch each day.
Regardless of what you do, expect the shoes to contract back over time. You may have to periodically restretch them.
As an aside, if you're near an AE store, they'll stretch your AE for free. Can't stretch other brands in case they damage them by accident (tear, pulled thread, etc).

I've jammed a pen on the outside of my trees to make a bit more pinky toe room on a few pairs. Talking with my SA, we decided maybe I should glue one of those little bunion bits that come with stretchers on my tree for a more permanent solution. This would ensure the stretch is held after every wear; a make shift lasted shoe tree if you will. I'll get around to doing it at some point!

An almost sisyphean task. Much easier on loafers. I've never
been really successful with that type of device. A good cobbler
will probably do a better job.

I think you are both correct in everything you say. @DWFII was kind enough to send me a message about my stretching efforts, in which he pointed out that no matter what I do, I can't change the shape of the insole. Now that I've discovered that I need more room near the welt, I am much less sanguine about my prospects for stretching success. If I had a bunion like @Sneaky Pete things might be different - who knows.

I do however intend to continue the experiments. It's true that a good cobbler could do a better job, but also true that the shoe will contract eventually and have to be re-stretched. Also, I am just a curious guy and I want to see what happens.

Plans for Next Time

My second stretcher should be delivered tonight, so I may just try it in the same spot and see how it fares. The first stretcher was not very precise in the location of the plastic nurdles, so perhaps I can get the leather to stretch closer to the welt with the other stretcher.

I may also try to stretch a different pair in the midfoot. @DWFII pointed out that problems with the base of the 5th metatarsal bone are usually due to the waist of the insole being too high, rather than the leather being too tight. I have found this to be true myself, especially with the $&!@ing AE 65 last. I really have no hope that I will be able to fix any of my shoes on the 65 last, in this area. However, there are a couple of other shoes that feel good in the insole, but tight in the leather upper. These cause some discomfort that I think could be alleviated by stretching.

A Sisyphean task indeed. I don't necessarily expect success, but I do hope to gather some useful information.

 

[madhat]

Thanks for all of the replies! It's been a little bit over two days, and I have just tried on the stretched shoe. Here it is with the stretcher in, and with the stretcher removed. View attachment 1037858 View attachment 1037860
I can definitely see a little deformed bump in the target area, so some "progress" has been made. When trying them on, however, there is still not enough room for my little toe. Honestly, I can't tell much of a difference. When I examined the shoe more closely, I could see why this might be the case: the leather had not stretched at the base of the shoe near the welt, but only farther up. I've tried to show the difference in these two photos: View attachment 1037862 View attachment 1037863
This is perhaps more of a problem for me than for others because of my odd little toe, which has been rotated sideways since birth. My father and my siblings have all inherited this from my grandmother.

Spoiler: Human foot

View attachment 1037864

So perhaps my little toe doesn't point up in the air as much as most folks. Regardless, this phase has been a failure but has yielded some interesting data.




I think you are both correct in everything you say. @DWFII was kind enough to send me a message about my stretching efforts, in which he pointed out that no matter what I do, I can't change the shape of the insole. Now that I've discovered that I need more room near the welt, I am much less sanguine about my prospects for stretching success. If I had a bunion like @Sneaky Pete things might be different - who knows.

I do however intend to continue the experiments. It's true that a good cobbler could do a better job, but also true that the shoe will contract eventually and have to be re-stretched. Also, I am just a curious guy and I want to see what happens.

Plans for Next Time

My second stretcher should be delivered tonight, so I may just try it in the same spot and see how it fares. The first stretcher was not very precise in the location of the plastic nurdles, so perhaps I can get the leather to stretch closer to the welt with the other stretcher.

I may also try to stretch a different pair in the midfoot. @DWFII pointed out that problems with the base of the 5th metatarsal bone are usually due to the waist of the insole being too high, rather than the leather being too tight. I have found this to be true myself, especially with the $&!@ing AE 65 last. I really have no hope that I will be able to fix any of my shoes on the 65 last, in this area. However, there are a couple of other shoes that feel good in the insole, but tight in the leather upper. These cause some discomfort that I think could be alleviated by stretching.

A Sisyphean task indeed. I don't necessarily expect success, but I do hope to gather some useful information.

Toes pointing up? Maybe I'm I'm the minority too; my outer toes are flat to the ground and they actually twist such that the flat part of the nails point up and out at a 30-45 deg angle. Somewhat similar to you
If you have room, you may consider an insole to bring your foot up off the footbed to where your stretch is occurring.

 

[coldsalmon]

The new stretcher did indeed arrive tonight. I sprayed some "stretching liquid" onto the toe area and set it to work. The liquid seems to be mostly alcohol judging by the smell and the way it evaporates quickly.

There are two stretchers, so I decided to go for the waist and the toe at the same time. The stretcher in the waist angled up pretty severely on the opposite side, rather than staying near the bottom of the shoe. But this is not such a big deal, and could even be beneficial since this means that it is pointing down towards the welt on the side I actually want to stretch.

I'm probably just ruining this shoe. But I must press forward ... for science!

 

[DWFII]

I think you are both correct in everything you say. @DWFII was kind enough to send me a message about my stretching efforts, in which he pointed out that no matter what I do, I can't change the shape of the insole. Now that I've discovered that I need more room near the welt, I am much less sanguine about my prospects for stretching success.

Room can be made for your little toe but it has to be above the insole/welt line. And that may not be sufficient if the little toe needs to bear weight and there is no insole underneath it for it to "plant" on. When I make shoes, I always respect the "footprint"--a pedograph ink print of the weight bearing plantar surface. IMO, the insole must always be as wide as the footprint or these kinds of problems can surface regardless whether there is a physical anomaly or not. But RTW makers don't always give such considerations weight, simply because they start with the last and not with the foot.

I may also try to stretch a different pair in the midfoot. @DWFII pointed out that problems with the base of the 5th metatarsal bone are usually due to the waist of the insole being too high, rather than the leather being too tight. I have found this to be true myself, especially with the $&!@ing AE 65 last. I really have no hope that I will be able to fix any of my shoes on the 65 last, in this area. However, there are a couple of other shoes that feel good in the insole, but tight in the leather upper. These cause some discomfort that I think could be alleviated by stretching.

If a person can easily lace a shoe up such that the facings re right together (something that a well made, properly fit shoe should not do), and the root of the fifth is still aching, you can be sure that tightness in the instep is not the problem. Being able to adjust the tightness of a shoe in the instep area is the genius of a lace-up shoe.

 

[coldsalmon]

Toes pointing up? Maybe I'm I'm the minority too; my outer toes are flat to the ground and they actually twist such that the flat part of the nails point up and out at a 30-45 deg angle. Somewhat similar to you
If you have room, you may consider an insole to bring your foot up off the footbed to where your stretch is occurring.

Yes, I think this is a great idea and I have been investigating it. I have tried about a dozen half-sole and three-quarter-sole inserts. So far the Profoot "flat fix" and "plantar" half-soles seem to work best. All of the 3/4 insoles crowd my toes, so they are out.

I also had a surprising amount of success with simply cutting some thin odor eater insoles in half.

I actually find that the half soles give me more room for my midfoot and my toes. I suppose that this makes sense because the foot is being pulled up at an angle, so the toes are in effect being pulled back. The midfoot is being lifted directly off of the insole as well. And since I have a somewhat low/flat instep, it actually seems to make the shoes fit better all around. I get more room in the problem areas, and less room in across the top of the foot, which is where I always had too much room.

 

[coldsalmon]

Room can be made for your little toe but it has to be above the insole/welt line. And that may not be sufficient if the little toe needs to bear weight and there is no insole underneath it for it to "plant" on. When I make shoes, I always respect the "footprint"--a pedograph ink print of the weight bearing plantar surface. IMO, the insole must always be as wide as the footprint or these kinds of problems can surface regardless whether there is a physical anomaly or not. But RTW makers don't always give such considerations weight, simply because they start with the last and not with the foot.




If a person can easily lace a shoe up such that the facings right are together (something that a well made, properly fit shoe should not do), and the root of the fifth is still aching, you can be sure that tightness in the instep is not the problem. Being able to adjust the tightness of a shoe in the instep area is the genius of a lace-up shoe.

Yes, the more I investigate the more I am convinced that the insoles are simply too small for me now. I may still investigate stretching shoes in which I cannot get lace closure, and the midfoot feels a bit tight. But I am definitely not going to mess around wearing shoes that really don't fit - a mild case of peroneal tendonitis has convinced me that this is a terrible idea.

The prospect of a "well made, properly fit shoe" still eludes me. I feel that I am forever compromising between the flatness and the wideness of my right foot, while my left foot is dragged along for the ride. I think that half-sole inserts may be the best solution to my present issues, but that's only because I've yet to find a last that really fits me.

I am always interested to read your perspective on fit and construction, since it is an excellent antidote to all of the nonsense I hear from shoe salesmen, and the compendium of little tricks that iGents use so they can wear beautiful lasts that just don't fit their feet.

 

[Encore]

Very good post - I have exactly the same problem with you, and have been trying to stretch my shoes for a long while.

I have wide feed and high instep in general, and my left foot has a higher instep than left whereas my fight foot is wider than right.. lolz
Same with coldsalmon - the outer side of my right foot little finger gets too much pressure from the shoes.

I have the same stretcher as CS's first one, I usually put it in the shoe for a day which seems to have very little affect. based on what has been discussed - should I then try to stretch each pair for a week or so too see if it works better?

 

[jts287]

Godspeed, man.

I've been stretching a pair of AE Leidens for 6 months now; they always revert to too tight eventually. I bought a can of stretch liquid recently and am convinced I dropped $10 on fifty cent's worth of water, rubbing alcohol, and fragrance.

 

[coldsalmon]

Very good post - I have exactly the same problem with you, and have been trying to stretch my shoes for a long while.

I have wide feed and high instep in general, and my left foot has a higher instep than left whereas my fight foot is wider than right.. lolz
Same with coldsalmon - the outer side of my right foot little finger gets too much pressure from the shoes.

I have the same stretcher as CS's first one, I usually put it in the shoe for a day which seems to have very little affect. based on what has been discussed - should I then try to stretch each pair for a week or so too see if it works better?

I may have some good news for you.

After a day of stretching - and taking @madhat 's advice of cranking up the stretcher periodically - I think I have made some progress. Here is the shoe after stretching, compared to its brother.

As you can see, there is a big bulge in the toe! When I put them on, I immediately felt more room for my pinkie toe. In fact, I would say that the fit is now completely satisfactory as concerns my little toe.
After wearing them for a little while, the pinkie toe still felt good, but the midfoot was beginning to bother me, just like always. The midfoot upper has clearly stretched as you can see here. On the interior photo, the stretching divot is just in front of the liner seam.

However, just as @DWFII pointed out, the problem with my midfoot concerns the insole rather than the upper. Regarding the discomfort in the base of my 5th metatarsal, then, I have accomplished nothing other than to distend the upper.

The Price

So, how much have a ruined these shoes so far? On the whole, I think the stretching is not noticeable unless you're really looking for it. In the previous photos I have tried to show the bumps and bulges at their most obvious and thus unflattering angles. Here is how they look on my feet:

It's obvious if you're looking for it, but it doesn't leap out otherwise.
Still.... would I do something like this to my favorite pair of beautiful, dark brown semi-brogue Adelaides? Hell no. Not unless there was no other choice, and frankly, there is another choice - at least for me. Using half-sole inserts gives me a similar benefit without adding a bulge on the outside of my shoe. I know that "nobody will ever notice or care," but that is beside the point, because I will notice and care. The whole reason I wear fine dress shoes is so that I will have a little moment of joy whenever I look at my feet throughout the day. If I have to choose between two equally healthy solutions and one of them is more aesthetically pleasing, that's an easy choice. If I didn't have another option, though, I think I could live with the small bulge that I made with this stretch.

Summary and Next Steps

I call this phase of the experiment a qualified success. I was able to obtain a significant and noticeable benefit from stretching. I think the success in the second attempt was not necessarily because the stretcher was better, but rather because I used stretching liquid, periodically increased the tension, and it was also building on the first stretch. I was pleasantly surprised that the janky little cheapo stretcher actually yielded good results compared to the expensive wooden stretcher.

For now, I have put regular shoe trees back in the shoes. I will see whether the stretch holds its shape after another day or so on the shelf.

 

[Threeputt]

I have a bunion on my right foot and must choose my shoes carefully to avoid discomfort after a long days wear. Some lasts are simply not for me. Given my chosen career however, dress shoes are a necessity and sleeker shoes can become especially uncomfortable later in the day.

FWIW, i’ve had good results putting a wee stretched bubble in the bunion area with a well placed plastic bump on the Houndsbay device you reference above. It’s not aesthetically noticeable (would be a deal killer for me as well) and just loosens the area around the bunion enough for all day comfort. I use the IPA solution applied heavily from the inside liners, sprayed and applied directly.

This has worked well for 65 last shoes, Edward Green 82 and Vass F. Granted, the bunion is up and off the insole a good bit and therefore in a somewhat “malleable” area. I wonder if I am more loosening the fibers than actually stretching the leather out. Regardless, it works well for me. I would hesitate to put a lot of strain on the inseam area. Lots of risk for little gain there I believe.

Lastly, a repeat stretch was needed a time or two but they all have become relatively permanent. It’s been almost 2 years for my 65 last shoes and they remain long day comfortable. 18 months for the EG and 12 months for the Vass. Each see 2-5 wears per month.

I’d like to go full bespoke one day, but with spawns to finish educating and world travel on the agenda, they are not the priority. I have started to make my own shoes and the Springline lasts I have are getting closer to perfect fit with each iteration (on my third pair currently). My finishing skills are far short of dress shoes however. But... it’s a journey and who knows what the future holds!