Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[Steel28]

Just got into SLP and hope Hedi departure is not freaking happening lol.

 

[b19pen15]

Is Balmain what he's implying?

Balmain would make so much sense for Hedi. Balmain is privately owned so there's less corporate pressure, and Hedi could have full and complete control over the brand, which he wasn't able to get with SLP (as the article notes, he distances himself from YSL’s beauty lines despite wanting control). Rousteing is taking Balmian into a pretty unfortunate direction (though there are one or two nice pieces each season, I'll admit), largely undoing Decarnin's rebirth of the brand, while Hedi, consciously or not, is continuing in Decarnin's direction and catering to Balmain's former clientele (with the biker jeans, distressed flannels and westerns, oversized sweaters, washed out dress shirts and t-shirts-- there's even a distressed breton shirt this season).

I'm sure it's a rumor, but that would be pretty exciting.

 

[needhelp123]

Olivier is pretty ****, his womenswear is not my style. I swear it looks same every season, especially menswear too which sucks even more.

 

[Slpbaby808]

Idk if I can see Hedi at Balmain but they do have 2-3 pieces I like from time to time but no where near as special as slp.

I ordered the motorcycle jacket that the pins were put on in the boutiques. Anybody know if that simple jacket fits like the l01 and others? I went same size as my L01. luckily I found on sale for $1700. I'm tryna grab pins to throw on it

 

[neonrider]

it fits slightly bigger. but it's a great jacket. being reissued with minor tweaks this season in different version. nice score!

i don't know if i can see hedi going to balmain, but rousteing's doing a great job of killing it. in the "to death" sense.

 

[scanner]

Hedi at Balmain would be pretty great. Ignoring Rousteing's Balmain, Decarnin and Hedi are quite close in terms of aesthetic, with one being more masculine than the other (the aesthetic in Faith Connexions is quite close to some of Hedi's wilder twists on classics). Plus, Balmain quality is much nicer and there seems to be more care in production as well as the items being a bit more limited and not as mass manufactured as most houses.

 

[Slpbaby808]



it fits slightly bigger. but it's a great jacket. being reissued with minor tweaks this season in different version. nice score!

i don't know if i can see hedi going to balmain, but rousteing's doing a great job of killing it. in the "to death" sense.

Thanks man. Does this jacket run normal sized though?
Or just the fit is bigger

I fit a 50 usually but u know slp l01 runs weird so I went 52 on the l01.

Finding this jacket on sale was

 

[neonrider]

no dude, you're good. it's intended to fit a little bigger so don't size up.

true about balmain quality, i still keep a few of my decarnin pieces around tho i never wear them just because they were so insanely well made.

on another note, why is the dino sweater selling out instantly? i mean it's ok, cool, fine, but not exactly a legendary grail. g-dragon effect?

 

[Slpbaby808]



no dude, you're good. it's intended to fit a little bigger so don't size up.

true about balmain quality, i still keep a few of my decarnin pieces around tho i never wear them just because they were so insanely well made.

on another note, why is the dino sweater selling out instantly? i mean it's ok, cool, fine, but not exactly a legendary grail. g-dragon effect?

Thanks man. Well I'm not sizing up but. I sized up on theL01 cause they ran very small. So I went same thing with this jacket. same size as l01. Well i guess I can see when arrives

 

[Slpbaby808]

Also. I had preordered The wyatt chain harness.
I got them few weeks ago. I must say the leather is very soft more soft than I remember my basic Wyatt harness being from seasons before. I'm not sure if that's the way the chain harness always been.. Softer than other regular Wyatt or maybe they user softer Leather this time around. It has the shaft which is a newer addition and the zipper isn't as big as the old one tho ,lame. But overall very happy. Can anybody confirm if there was any quality change? Cause this last batch is a lot smoother than the regular Wyatt harness

 

[needhelp123]

Quote:
Originally Posted by neonrider

no dude, you're good. it's intended to fit a little bigger so don't size up.

true about balmain quality, i still keep a few of my decarnin pieces around tho i never wear them just because they were so insanely well made.

on another note, why is the dino sweater selling out instantly? i mean it's ok, cool, fine, but not exactly a legendary grail. g-dragon effect?

probably, its all over Instagram, all the famous people wearing it..i mean it will only last one season that's for sure and it cost 1400aud...only because it has SLP tag would someone pay that much for whats essentially just a normal knit with a t-rex on it.

if hedi didn't do it people would think its redicolous to wear a t-rex sweater, I also noticed it was serlling out everywhere

 

[Slpbaby808]

Here is an article written by a blogger named By Kade Killary
I have to agree with the opinion not saying they are entirely right but makes very well made points




" WWD recently wrote that Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent Creative Director and fashion provocateur, could be leaving SLP. Anthony Vaccarello, formerly at Versus Versace, is the lead candidate to take over the position. Many are obviously sad at this potential departure, but we explain why it could actually be beneficial for fashion as a whole.


Hedi does Hedi, and nothing else. His squabbles with fashion critic Cathy Horyn are well documented, and highlight his unwillingness to change which leads to stagnation, repetition, and ultimately more of the same. When he first took the reigns at Saint Laurent Paris, then Yves Saint Laurent, he ushered in a wake of change that felt fresh, but now he spends season after season performing a set of fashion’s greatest hits. Gorgeous bomber jackets, decadent blazers, slick biker jackets, and super skinny black jeans….over and over and over.



All of the former looks are from different seasons, but are so close in theme that you could easily be led to believe they’re from the same collection – thus the problem.



Commercially, Hedi’s Saint Laurent is a runaway success. It sells, and does so incredibly well.

WWD recently wrote that Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent Creative Director and fashion provocateur, could be leaving SLP. Anthony Vaccarello, formerly at Versus Versace, is the lead candidate to take over the position. Many are obviously sad at this potential departure, but we explain why it could actually be beneficial for fashion as a whole.


Hedi does Hedi, and nothing else. His squabbles with fashion critic Cathy Horyn are well documented, and highlight his unwillingness to change which leads to stagnation, repetition, and ultimately more of the same. When he first took the reigns at Saint Laurent Paris, then Yves Saint Laurent, he ushered in a wake of change that felt fresh, but now he spends season after season performing a set of fashion’s greatest hits. Gorgeous bomber jackets, decadent blazers, slick biker jackets, and super skinny black jeans….over and over and over.



All of the former looks are from different seasons, but are so close in theme that you could easily be led to believe they’re from the same collection – thus the problem.



Commercially, Hedi’s Saint Laurent is a runaway success. It sells, and does so incredibly well.











This reinvigoration from Slimane, since taking over control in 2012, highlights luxury fashion’s precarious position: is it meant to inspire and push creativity, or merely sell to the tune of millions for Parisian powerhouses? I don’t think there is a right answer, per se, but with a talent so immense as Hedi, it feels like we aren’t getting everything he has to offer when the focus is centered on profits.

We get it…you adore Rock ‘n Roll: psych rock, punk rock, glam rock, and every other possible iteration imaginable. When does it get old though? The clothes are amazing – undeniable – but the creation feels stale.

Kanye West famously blasted Hedi Slimane for not adapting to modern culture in an interview that aired on BBC Radio 1 with Zayn Lowe, “Rap the new Rock ‘n Roll…and it’s been like that for a minute Hedi Slimane!” Certainly, I’m not arguing for Slimane to all of a sudden become the Hip Hop loving equivalent of Riccardo Tisci – of Givenchy, or Olivier Rousteing – of Balmain, but something different is needed.



If Slimane departs Saint Laurent, the future for his creation becomes re-energized. He’ll have to start over – if he continues to design – with a new house with new archives to draw from, which presents the opportunity for Hedi to present a new take. Hedi’s time at Saint Laurent has been financially lucrative, while feeling – at times – like a fashion factory continually cranking out ultra slim-fit clothes for non-existent rockstars of yesteryears. At this point, I don’t think there is much more for Hedi to deliver at Saint Laurent on this rock thesis. What would a Louis Vuitton designed by Hedi look like? Balenciaga? Gucci? Or even his own label? Who knows, but if he was to exit, the possibilities become far more intriguing then an endless parade of ready-made Rock ‘n Roll garments.

Hedi is insanely talented, without a doubt, but here’s to dreaming of a new challenge for the fashion phenom; instead of yet another collection consisting of the same clothes with a slightly different rock patina. "

- By Kade Killary


http://www.upscalehype.com/2016/01/...-slimane-leaving-saint-laurent-would-be-best/

 

[b19pen15]

Link to the article.

 

[Slpbaby808]



Link to the article.

Thanks for that my phone wouldn't copy the link was marsupialed

 

[neonrider]

nah, that's a superficial blog post by a wannabe fashion insider in london, the worst place in the world for fashion at the moment, that shows exactly why hedi doesn't engage with this entire side of the world, because frankly they're so dumb it's almost like they've never read a book.

season after season slimane references art, design, big aesthetic ideas, movements in history, and all the fashion insiders see is..."rock". take the psych rock collection for example, which referenced all the ideas of psychedelia (as an historic movement, not just a kind of "rock"), from naturalism to eastern mysticism to transcendentalism. all the fashion insiders saw here was fringes, but anyone with a brain should have been able to see much more than that. that fashion critics don't and can't tells us more about them than it does about slimane.

like mcqueen in his golden age, there are more ideas in a single slimane collection than in most of the rest of the industry combined (like jw anderson, or christopher kane, or the new kenzo dudes, for example, who have designs, but no actual ideas, theories, points to make beyond "futurism!!" or "retro-futurism!!", over and over again). hedi is talking about bigger ideas than that: freedom, youth, meaning, their limitations and contradictions. the surf sound collection is an example of exactly all that, not just shapes that have been copied a million by fashion school types in their graduate collections, all of which basically look like rick owens circa 2003, but exploring what freedom and youth mean at the cutting edge. so is the idea of the "permanent collection", which of course is against almost everything the fashion industry stands for today, and has little to do with "rock", but is more about classicism, simplicity, rigor, freedom *from* the superficial noise of the fashion industry.

in fact, let's analyze the surf sound collection further to make this point crystal clear. on one level, you see embroidered bomber jackets. this is the "all i can see i shiny things level" the fashion industry is limited to thinking at. at another level, let's call it the level of people who know a little bit about the world, you see bomber jackets referencing the ideas of the great 80s and 90s art movements, outsider art, memphis, etc. on another level still, let's call it the creative level, you see hedi creating the idea of almost-haute-couture-for-young-guys, since no one's ever really made this stuff before. and then on still another level, let's call it the intellectual level, you see slimane tying all this to a subculture that's never really been allowed to be *considered* high art/cutlure/etc, namely surf punk, and using it to make points about the aesthetics of freedom and youth, how they go stale, how they are recreated, what they mean, why they matter, etc. all THAT is the mark of a creative genius--to be able to think on all these levels at once. no one else in the fashion industry is remotely even within light-years of being capable of this. hell, most of slimane's contemporaries can barely manage thinking at the FIRST level.

there are many ways to criticize slimane, but the idea that he's just recreating "rock" is probably a sign that the critic doesn't really think too hard about anything but decoration, artifice, form, certainly not the world, history, art, or ideas--stuff of substance. fashion types hate slimane so much probably exactly for this reason: he doesn't really give a **** what they think, because mostly they don't. like the bryanboy line that "hedi's knocking off zara!!! derf derf"...when of course exactly the opposite is true, while every other major designer is busy furiously knocking off slimane.

*anyone who quotes kanye about rap is the new rock is probably the last person we should listen to on what fashion means. then you end up with olivier rousteing and riccardo tisci putting dobermans on t-shirts and calling it high fashion. rap isn't rock, rock isn't the point, fashion is superficial and meaningless unless it is grounded in our actual lives, and that is precisely what slimane challenges. which is why we pay $5k for perfectly cut biker jackets.

ok thats it from me for a while. lol maybe i should start an awesome cool fashunz blog, i could be the next bryanboy