Pictures from a few days in Naples (Updated... Solito, Formosa, Rubinacci).

[inimitable]

excellent thread, thank you.

 

[poorsod]



made by formosa senior
teh famous sarto
a very different coat
from what is being
made there nao

You believe it's really different even though the old workers are still there? How so? Supposedly Formosa senior was most famous for his DB.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



made by formosa senior
teh famous sarto
a very different coat
from what is being
made there nao

How so? Is the stuff now much more fitted / waisted?

 

[dieworkwear]



You believe it's really different even though the old workers are still there? How so? Supposedly Formosa senior was most famous for his DB.

I like Formosa's stuff, so this isn't a knock, but worth noting that they're not the same cutters, who play the most important role.

How so? Is the stuff now much more fitted / waisted?

Perhaps more new school Neapolitan, than old school. It's like the difference between NSM's cuts and Rubinacci. Not just about the fit, but also the shaping and style of the jackets.

 

[poorsod]

It's hard to know what the Formosa senior style looks like. I've met Patrizio Cappelli a couple times and I'm not sure if I could tell if he was wearing a suit by the senior Formosa.

Does anyone have pictures of what the senior Formosa made and the visual differences to what is made currently?

I've just ordered a Formosa. At least I can compare it to my NSM.

 

[dieworkwear]



It's hard to know what the Formosa senior style looks like. I've met Patrizio Cappelli a couple times and I'm not sure if I could tell if he was wearing a suit by the senior Formosa.

Does anyone have pictures of what the senior Formosa made and the visual differences to what is made currently?

I've just ordered a Formosa. At least I can compare it to my NSM.

Here are two examples. Newer one has a cleaner chest and more open quarters.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

This is a DB made by the Senior Formosa. Genarro put it on a manniquin for me to look at, but I unfortunately didn't take photos. It had a slightly old-Rubi feel from what I remember though.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

FWIW, AFAIK, Cappelii wears both Solito and Formosa -- both made by the seniors.

 

[poorsod]



This looks like a more squared off shoulder in the Blasi style no? I wonder if Formosa builds a more padded squared off shoulder by default such as noted by koolbear.

 Interestingly, they had small shoulder pads inside when I first arrived.  I mentioned that I didn't want any padding in the shoulder, and Dionisio ripped them out with me still wearing the basted jacket.  He said he would adjust the shoulders slightly to account for the removal of padding.

 

[Victor Elfo]

I've to say that Formosa's waist treatment is more flattering, in my opinion. Nonetheless, I would still request the tailor to pinch it a little bit more. Rubinacci's and Formosa's, especially the former, looks a bit too pinched, to my eye. What do you think?
Don't mean to be a pain it the ass, the garments do look great and I'd not comment if you hadn't showed some concerns with the waist treatment. Not sure if the following picture will be to any good, but it could perhaps illustrate a waist treatment more to your liking.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Wow, the scye and that part of the back of Mariano, as well as the very wide diameter of the the sleeve at that area does a lot of bad fitting issues.

Pasted this sentece with i got a lot of laughs;

Me playing it cool at the bar waiting for my Espresso. Which they don't call Espresso. They call it Cafe. It only costs 1 Euro, and is very, very good. They serve it with a glass of sparkling water. I thought I had blended in successfully with the locals, until the Barista asked me how the coffee was in China. I told him it was OK. I have never been to China.

 

[koolbear]

I've to say that Formosa's waist treatment is more flattering, in my opinion. Nonetheless, I would still request the tailor to pinch it a little bit more. Rubinacci's and Formosa's, especially the former, looks a bit too pinched, to my eye. What do you think?
Don't mean to be a pain it the ass, the garments do look great and I'd not comment if you hadn't showed some concerns with the waist treatment. Not sure if the following picture will be to any good, but it could perhaps illustrate a waist treatment more to your liking.

I agree. I think the Formosa is the most elegant looking thus far. I did very much like the Solito in real life, but appreciate that it photographs as if it is quite tight. It didn't feel tight. The Rubinacci also felt very, very roomy on the inside, despite looking very nipped in photographs and in real-life. I think it is because they make a very full chest. I don't know. I am reasonably new to this stuff. I look forwards to receiving the finished products next month and comparing them side-by-side.

The man in the photograph is more than 20 years my senior, and has a very different body habitus. I think it hard to compare his coat to mine. That photograph looks like the London Store.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Interesting comments. Remember reading Foo saying something similar, when users said his coat was too nipped at the waist. You've already asked for a subtle waist treatment, but I would also ask for a cupped skirt (which will provide for that seamless transition between coat and trousers, illustrated above). It is not something better per se, but could suit your taste, it does suit mine. Looking forward for your report on the finished garments!
Google "iammatt" (a SF inactive member and long time Rubinacci client) for images. You'll get some examples of the most regarded London House garments. In my opinion, it shows the best of LH for a contemporary style. Here's an example:

 

[koolbear]

Wow, the scye and that part of the back of Mariano, as well as the very wide diameter of the the sleeve at that area does a lot of bad fitting issues.

Actually I just watched the Video from which that still was captured. The collar of the jacket seems to sit well off his neck, but otherwise I think the sleeves, arm scye and back look really nice. I don't know why he doesn't wear his collars tighter.

 

[koolbear]

Interesting comments. Remember reading Foo saying something similar, when users said his coat was too nipped at the waist. You've already asked for a subtle waist treatment, but I would also ask for a cupped skirt (which will provide for that seamless transition between coat and trousers, illustrated above). It is not something better per se, but could suit your taste, it does suit mine. Looking forward for your report on the finished garments!

Not sure what you mean by a "cupped" skirt. Do you mean the shape of the quarters?

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Actually I just watched the Video from which that still was captured. The collar of the jacket seems to sit well off his neck, but otherwise I think the sleeves, arm scye and back look really nice. I don't know why he doesn't wear his collars tighter.

I have never considered it a good tailoring house based on the facts than i have never seen a good or even mediocre fit from them( well it was when Vincenzo Attolini was there, the same who teached my grandmaster who became master there several decades ago and quited tired of Mariano, who has any clue about dressing or what a proper fit is, that is why any good mastertailor wants to work there by any reason unless they got to pay bills). That is the true even some fanatics of the brand will insult me as have done in the past etc for saying what anyone knows about in Naples or inside the industry.

Also, on the contrary to the popular believing that they do light deconstructed garments, the ones i have inspectioned personally are too heavy and " overarmoured" for what i consider a light deconstructed jacket and compared to other tailors around.

Example of no good fit;

 

[Tony Montana]