Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Sander]

@Leaves: no, this is also in Florence. I had a fitting as well, will pick up the suit in March; also ordered a suit from Kotaro/Sartoria Corcos as well. Here he takes note of my Hunchback-of-Notre-Dame-esque physique. This will be in a sublime mid-brown Loro Piana hopsack Kotaro dug up somewhere. It is brown, but has also gold, white and even some light blue in it; couldn't be more excited.

 

[grc1]



I started, like so many others, by ways of altered RTW, followed by MTM, followed by bespoke. I wish I had went bespoke from day one, it would have saved me a lot of time, effort and $$$.

Very interesting thread. At this stage, I'm still in the MTM category and thinking about bespoke, and I have a question based on my journey thus far to getting truly well-fitting clothes:

What happens to the bespoke first suit or pair of shoes once you've received your second?

Take shoes, for example - I've had a couple shoes now from Meccariello and Bestetti who start off with semi-customisable lasts. The first shoe I got fit 100% better than standard RTW. The second shoe fit 105% better than RTW. And that extra 5% has led to me almost completely ignoring the first pair - it's spoiled me. Is my presumption correct that, by going full bespoke the delta between the first and second items of clothing is, instead of 5%, maybe 1-2% (I can't imagine it's possible to get it so absolutely perfect the first time round that the difference is negligible the second time round - or is it?).

Anyone still have mad love for their first once the second has hit the closet? If so, what did you do to make sure they utterly nailed it on the first try so it doesn't languish forgotten in the back of the wardrobe?

 

[Winot]

It's not a complete answer to your question, but I made the mistake of going for 'cheap' bespoke for a few years. Add a result there are half a dozen suits I never wear.

However back then I couldn't have afforded the suits I buy now.

 

[Leaves]



Very interesting thread. At this stage, I'm still in the MTM category and thinking about bespoke, and I have a question based on my journey thus far to getting truly well-fitting clothes:

What happens to the bespoke first suit or pair of shoes once you've received your second?

Take shoes, for example - I've had a couple shoes now from Meccariello and Bestetti who start off with semi-customisable lasts. The first shoe I got fit 100% better than standard RTW. The second shoe fit 105% better than RTW. And that extra 5% has led to me almost completely ignoring the first pair - it's spoiled me. Is my presumption correct that, by going full bespoke the delta between the first and second items of clothing is, instead of 5%, maybe 1-2% (I can't imagine it's possible to get it so absolutely perfect the first time round that the difference is negligible the second time round - or is it?).

Anyone still have mad love for their first once the second has hit the closet? If so, what did you do to make sure they utterly nailed it on the first try so it doesn't languish forgotten in the back of the wardrobe?

No one nails it the first time. Also, tastes change. My first bespoke tailor was Graham Browne ("cheap bespoke" or entry level bespoke might be a better word). I love some of the stuff they made for me a few years back but some I never use. I ordered too much too quickly because I was so overly excited about the whole bespoke experience.

For me at least, I've tried out so many different lasts from different shoe makers that bespoke is not really a must have for me. I've nailed my lasts down and I'm sticking to them (G&G MH71, EG 82, Carmina Rain and Bonafé 74945). I will however commission a G&G bespoke pair and a Bonafé bespoke pair just for the experience.

 

[grc1]



No one nails it the first time. Also, tastes change. My first bespoke tailor was Graham Browne ("cheap bespoke" or entry level bespoke might be a better word). I love some of the stuff they made for me a few years back but some I never use. I ordered too much too quickly because I was so overly excited about the whole bespoke experience.

I made the mistake of over-ordering with G&G because I was so excited about finally being able to afford RTW shoes at that level. I can see that the same principle applies with bespoke - the word to the wise being "keep it simple, and go slow until you're sure you've nailed it down."

 

[Leaves]



I made the mistake of over-ordering with G&G because I was so excited about finally being able to afford RTW shoes at that level. I can see that the same principle applies with bespoke - the word to the wise being "keep it simple, and go slow until you're sure you've nailed it down."

Agree 100%. First 5-6 projects should ideally be very, very basic stuff commissioned over a long time period. First one should always be a navy suit or a navy jacket and gray trousers IMO. Something you could wear everyday.

 

[Winot]



No one nails it the first time. Also, tastes change. My first bespoke tailor was Graham Browne ("cheap bespoke" or entry level bespoke might be a better word). I love some of the stuff they made for me a few years back but some I never use. I ordered too much too quickly because I was so overly excited about the whole bespoke experience.

Snap. However, the positive way of looking at it is that I got to experiment with bespoke and get that early stage out of my system at Graham Browne rather than Savile Row prices.

 

[Leaves]



Snap. However, the positive way of looking at it is that I got to experiment with bespoke and get that early stage out of my system at Graham Browne rather than Savile Row prices.

Are you not happy with Russel's stuff? I still think his product is good given the price point. I'd recommend him to any friend looking for entry level bespoke although I'd insist on supervising the process.

 

[WeakMonday]

 

[ThinkDerm]



I'm just tall.

7 feet tall?

 

[ThinkDerm]



looks nice

 

[Winot]



Are you not happy with Russel's stuff? I still think his product is good given the price point. I'd recommend him to any friend looking for entry level bespoke although I'd insist on supervising the process.

The stuff I am not happy with predates Russell - it was cut by Mike (Graham's partner) who sadly died.

I still wear some of the stuff that Russell cut and I agree it is excellent given the price point. I mainly stopped using them because they got too busy, and had trouble with a DB waistcoat that they then couldn't resolve. I had moved on to Meyer & Mortimer by then.

 

[Braddock]

I picked up new shoes from Roberto Ugolini 2 weeks ago, forgot to post the photos here.

 

[jedwards]



Very interesting thread. At this stage, I'm still in the MTM category and thinking about bespoke, and I have a question based on my journey thus far to getting truly well-fitting clothes:

What happens to the bespoke first suit or pair of shoes once you've received your second?

Take shoes, for example - I've had a couple shoes now from Meccariello and Bestetti who start off with semi-customisable lasts. The first shoe I got fit 100% better than standard RTW. The second shoe fit 105% better than RTW. And that extra 5% has led to me almost completely ignoring the first pair - it's spoiled me. Is my presumption correct that, by going full bespoke the delta between the first and second items of clothing is, instead of 5%, maybe 1-2% (I can't imagine it's possible to get it so absolutely perfect the first time round that the difference is negligible the second time round - or is it?).

Anyone still have mad love for their first once the second has hit the closet? If so, what did you do to make sure they utterly nailed it on the first try so it doesn't languish forgotten in the back of the wardrobe?

One thing to be careful of is the romance that surrounds bespoke.
I have several different pieces, different makers, some expensive, some 'affordable'.

There is one tailoring house who is highly praised on this forum and the wider #menswear community.
That particular house's prices match their high reputation. I had for a long time wanted to try this particular house one day, even though, for me it was getting a little bit toooo pricey for me to justify when I use other makers I am more than happy with.

For obvious reasons I won't name them as I have no wish to denigrate them or their work.

Two weeks ago I bumped into someone wearing one of their jackets. I knew for sure it was from this tailoring house, because I have seen that guy on Tumblr etc in that store and so recognised the jacket.

I wanted to be awe-struck when I saw it in person, but to be honest.... I was underwhelmed and I realised it was really just a suit jacket, not too dissimilar from those which would be half or even 1/3 of the price.

Now, I completely get that certain houses have a supply / demand thing. They are not necessarily saying "we are the best in the world" its just that their demand outstrips their ability to supply. So they can charge very high prices. If you're super rich, this doesn't really matter to you.

The danger is, sometimes people who aren't super rich on StyleForum etc who get sucked into the romance of bespoke, and believe the garments will be a million times better than a cheaper maker and this is simply not always true. So my advice is to not get swept away by the 'brand name' aspect of bespoke.

 

[greger]

Bespoke is not the magical bullet by default. It depends on the skills. Not a single body is the same as anybody else's. To nail the fit on the first one is asking much. But, most people like it more than their other garments. After wearing it for a few months and they have choices with the next one... How many gave away their rtw and mtm because they like bespoke so much more?

These garments and shoes should have at least one days rest before being worn again.