Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[grc1]

Question related to the relative benefit of bespoke vs RTW - I was in Lutwyche today browsing and there's a RTW suit there on sale. Normally £3400, it's going for £1350. The fit is good round the shoulders and collar, all in all it looks like alteration needed is pretty minimal. Is it worth it or am I better off putting the money towards an entry-level bespoke?

 

[Victor Elfo]

There is no way to give a objetive answer to your question, IMO. There are some RTW which rivals bespoke in terms of handcraft and cloth's quality (Formosa comes to mind), so there is not much difference there. Fit is the only objective factor that puts bespoke ahead of RTW, but there is many ways to get a good fit from RTW, as you know. So, in the end, it is simply about the process of commissioning a bespoke garment. Do you value the process? Only you can answer this question.

 

[WeakMonday]

Question related to the relative benefit of bespoke vs RTW - I was in Lutwyche today browsing and there's a RTW suit there on sale. Normally £3400, it's going for £1350. The fit is good round the shoulders and collar, all in all it looks like alteration needed is pretty minimal. Is it worth it or am I better off putting the money towards an entry-level bespoke?

Without pictures this seems like a rather hard question to answer, because a) anybody answering would have to guess as to whether or not the suit on sale actually fits you as well as you claim (and whether or not you actually care), and b) then guess as to how your interactions with a bespoke tailor would work out for you.

 

[greger]

A brother bought a coat for 70 to 80 dollars that by luck fit very well. The other ones he tried on were terrible. On one of the worst a salesman came along and said it fit very well.

Some tailors are very good and others are not as good. Amount of comfort varies from pattern system to pattern system, construction methods and so on. I've seen coats that made me wonder why the person went to that tailor and others so marvelous you know why they chose the tailor. Some tailors have a good eye while others make yuk they are so proud of. The skills of fitting is the major reason why tailors become great.

 

[Victor Elfo]

I partially agree with you. Yes, we can make a point today that the fit is the main asset of bespoke, given that there is RTW on par with bespoke (cloth wise and handcraft wise) and made to order on the same standards (which gives you more flexibility with the cloth choice and a better fit, in theory). However, is the difference (which we assume, for the sake of an argument, that favours a bespoke garment) worth the price difference? Honestly, I do not think so. That's where I see the importance of the subjective value we atribute to the bespoke process. Unless you enjoy the process, there is better options (cost/value wise) than bespoke today. What do you think? Perhaps I'm just projecting my experience to a general hypothesis, but I should say that my experience is very different from what I pictured above, since I pay such low prices on my bespoke garments.

 

[archibaldleach]

Re: is bespoke worth it, I think the answer is "it depends." I've been a RTW and MTM customer for most of my adult life, and while I've toyed with bespoke, I don't think I value the incremental benefits enough to spend 2.5x more per suit than I currently do. I like my Hong Kong MTM stuff (Hemrajani / MyTailor) and I can afford to build a balanced wardrobe for a reasonable price. I think most people who can get a good fit with MTM and have a decent knowledge of cloth / how pieces should be combined can look really excellent without paying bespoke prices, but it may be different for those who really struggle finding good fits from RTW / MTM. I'm someone who tends to not have major fit issues with OTR clothes and who gets enough incremental fit benefits (plus cloth selection) with MTM to be satisfied. If I had major issues fitting into clothes, I'd be more likely to value bespoke.

As a clothing hobbyist, I do want to experience the bespoke process at some point and now that I have enough in my closet to not need to add anything, I may replace a couple less satisfactory pieces with bespoke if the timing and price is right. I also do love seeing the passion many on here have for clothes and commissioning bespoke garments.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Forward fitting for a linen suit. Already took delivery, but did not have a chance to photograph it.

 

[P-K-L]



Forward fitting for a linen suit. Already took delivery, but did not have a chance to photograph it.

did you request the shoulder pads to be that big?

 

[C&A]



Forward fitting for a linen suit. Already took delivery, but did not have a chance to photograph it.

what lining does your tailor use ?

 

[Victor Elfo]

did you request the shoulder pads to be that big?

No and they were only that big at the fitting, though I make sure to have some shoulder extension while keeping a curve on the sleeve fall. My tailors likes to decide about the shoulder length at the fittings. Also, while having some shoulder pads, the shoulder has a pretty natural line to it.

what lining does your tailor use ?

This particular coat was quarter lined (shoulders and sleeves) with silk (acquired by me, btw).

 

[C&A]



pretty natural line to it.

just curious, are you from iran, if you don't mind me asking ?

This particular coat was quarter lined (shoulders and sleeves) with silk (acquired by me, btw).

sorry my bad. in meant interlining.

 

[Victor Elfo]



just curious, are you from iran, if you don't mind me asking ?
sorry my bad. in meant interlining.

You mean ethnically? I'm not familiar with ethnic Iranians, but I'm a common Brazilian, as far as I know.

I think that it's a fussing. Can't ask more than fit, style and the process paying the equivalent to us$ 250,00 for a suit.

 

[Newcomer]

Bu the way, I am currently documenting my experience with Chris Despos here:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/447277/newcs-bespoke-adventure

I'll copy pasta the pictures later.

 

[Sander]

Went to Florence last week, second fitting for the light grey fresco and first for the brown one. The light grey will be shipped in a few weeks, will have to come back for the brown one with Sartoria Corcos. Can't wait.

 

[venividivicibj]

I think I like your grey fresco, and your liverano the best so far. Looks great