shirtingfantasy
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Lu Yang bespoke seamless wholecut oxford in Zonta museum calf
Hi all! I briefly searched the forum and found that Lu Yang (https://instagram.com/bespoke_shoemaker_luyang) hasn’t yet got a dedicated appreciation thread, so I thought it could be of interest to SF members to share the experience of my recent purchase as a new thread.
Lu is a self-taught bespoke shoemaker in Hangzhou, China. I accidentally came across his operation when I saw him mentioned by a local menswear critic, Dapperfield (https://www.facebook.com/dapperfield/), in early 2019. It was before I knew Lu joined the international shoemaking competition and got the 17th place (http://shoegazing.se/english/2019/0...ing-2019-all-competition-shoes-pt-2/#number17).
I did not meet Lu in person throughout my ordering, although he did came to Hong Kong for a trunk show in August (my shoes had been lasted by then). As I commissioned my pair before he started his collaboration with his HK trunk show organiser, Dashing House, I also felt that it would be a matter of decency to refrain from meeting Lu during his trunk show.
The electronic “bespoke” process comprised the followings: sending Lu photos of the desired design, measurements and foot photos (and discussions), Lu sends first fitting shoes (unwearable), feedback to Lu and further discussions, Lu sends second fitting shoes, still further feedbacks, and final delivery.
0. Initial consultation
Just a further bit of background: I have always wanted a pair of seamless wholecut oxfords and was hunting for the right maker at the start of 2019. There was a China maker who initially agreed to make the shoes for me but later declined (after I have actually purchased the leather from AA Crack & Sons, UK). It was how I ended up having a piece of Zonta museum calf going nowhere.
My specifications were therefore simple: a pair of seamless wholecuts in my provided leather. I also specified chisel toe.
So it began with Lu sending me photos of different chisel toes he thought I may like. I liked the Aurum Chisel last from Antonio Meccariello, and so also asked him to take particular inspiration from that (the final outcome, as one shall see later, is rather different and in interesting ways).
And then I was asked to send him measurements of my own feet and photos of my feet from different angles.
I also communicated to him my usual problem areas with RTW shows. Lu took note of those and proceed to making the custom last and trial shoes.
1. First fitting
After about three weeks, I received my trial shoes. The trial shoes were made from a beige colour leather, had no stiffeners and no arch support and were not wearable as real shoes.
Below is a photo of the right fitting shoe from Lu taken at his workshop:
And this is actual state of the shoes when I received them:
There was some tightness over the lateral toes that I noted. I also found the rather sharp lines of the last not too elegant. Lu noted both and agreed to refine the last shape.
Lu also asked me to trace the contour of my toes on the beige colour disposable trial shoes. And then he proceeded to further last modifications.
2. Second fitting
After another four weeks, Lu send me the second trial shoes. The shoes were still unwearable as real shoes, but he added arch support to help me better evaluate the fit.
The first thing I noted was the improved last shape. Still not ideal, and somewhat too slim - Lu argued that, as final shoes would be made with lining they "definitely would not be slim"; I found this slightly amusing since it means the fitting shoes would not allow me to visualize the final last shape.
I was asking Lu if he needed to widen some parts of the last to make shoes look less pointy.
On the left: 2nd fitting shoes
On the right: Meccariello Argentum Handwelted MTO in Chisel 2
During the second fitting, I further indicate residual areas of tightness.
Lu asked me to indicate where my toe tips would reach when flexing my feet.
After that, Lu said he was confident and could begin making the final pair.
[to be continued]
Hi all! I briefly searched the forum and found that Lu Yang (https://instagram.com/bespoke_shoemaker_luyang) hasn’t yet got a dedicated appreciation thread, so I thought it could be of interest to SF members to share the experience of my recent purchase as a new thread.
Lu is a self-taught bespoke shoemaker in Hangzhou, China. I accidentally came across his operation when I saw him mentioned by a local menswear critic, Dapperfield (https://www.facebook.com/dapperfield/), in early 2019. It was before I knew Lu joined the international shoemaking competition and got the 17th place (http://shoegazing.se/english/2019/0...ing-2019-all-competition-shoes-pt-2/#number17).
I did not meet Lu in person throughout my ordering, although he did came to Hong Kong for a trunk show in August (my shoes had been lasted by then). As I commissioned my pair before he started his collaboration with his HK trunk show organiser, Dashing House, I also felt that it would be a matter of decency to refrain from meeting Lu during his trunk show.
The electronic “bespoke” process comprised the followings: sending Lu photos of the desired design, measurements and foot photos (and discussions), Lu sends first fitting shoes (unwearable), feedback to Lu and further discussions, Lu sends second fitting shoes, still further feedbacks, and final delivery.
0. Initial consultation
Just a further bit of background: I have always wanted a pair of seamless wholecut oxfords and was hunting for the right maker at the start of 2019. There was a China maker who initially agreed to make the shoes for me but later declined (after I have actually purchased the leather from AA Crack & Sons, UK). It was how I ended up having a piece of Zonta museum calf going nowhere.
My specifications were therefore simple: a pair of seamless wholecuts in my provided leather. I also specified chisel toe.
So it began with Lu sending me photos of different chisel toes he thought I may like. I liked the Aurum Chisel last from Antonio Meccariello, and so also asked him to take particular inspiration from that (the final outcome, as one shall see later, is rather different and in interesting ways).
And then I was asked to send him measurements of my own feet and photos of my feet from different angles.
I also communicated to him my usual problem areas with RTW shows. Lu took note of those and proceed to making the custom last and trial shoes.
1. First fitting
After about three weeks, I received my trial shoes. The trial shoes were made from a beige colour leather, had no stiffeners and no arch support and were not wearable as real shoes.
Below is a photo of the right fitting shoe from Lu taken at his workshop:
And this is actual state of the shoes when I received them:
There was some tightness over the lateral toes that I noted. I also found the rather sharp lines of the last not too elegant. Lu noted both and agreed to refine the last shape.
Lu also asked me to trace the contour of my toes on the beige colour disposable trial shoes. And then he proceeded to further last modifications.
2. Second fitting
After another four weeks, Lu send me the second trial shoes. The shoes were still unwearable as real shoes, but he added arch support to help me better evaluate the fit.
The first thing I noted was the improved last shape. Still not ideal, and somewhat too slim - Lu argued that, as final shoes would be made with lining they "definitely would not be slim"; I found this slightly amusing since it means the fitting shoes would not allow me to visualize the final last shape.
I was asking Lu if he needed to widen some parts of the last to make shoes look less pointy.
On the left: 2nd fitting shoes
On the right: Meccariello Argentum Handwelted MTO in Chisel 2
During the second fitting, I further indicate residual areas of tightness.
Lu asked me to indicate where my toe tips would reach when flexing my feet.
After that, Lu said he was confident and could begin making the final pair.
[to be continued]
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