gennaro paone: former head tailor of rubinacci

[dieworkwear]

People are oddly dictatorial on this forum. Not meaning Foo or Manton, as I think they've given a lot of insight. But almost every other poster likes to dictate some hardline rule for how something should be worn, how things must be made, or in this thread, how things should be even bought.

Yes, I find that commissions improve on the second or third iteration. At some point, those improvements taper off. I've liked the Rubinacci stuff I've seen on this forum, and since Gennaro was the cutter, this seems like a great opportunity to try him out. Esp since he's now traveling, so your salesperson, fitter, and cutter will be all in one man (which I think is nice). If things work out the first couple of commissions, then maybe I'll order more. I'm not really sure there's much more to it than that.

Are people this rule-bound when they try other things? Like if they buy a car (e.g. "it has to be blue, and you have to stick with the company that made your last car, and it has to have four doors, otherwise you're screwed")? Or when they try a new dish at a restaurant (e.g. "it has to be made by the same cook, and you have to eat it with a fork, and it has to have tomatoes")?

Sometimes this board feels like it rips all the joy out of buying and wearing clothing.

 

[lordsuperb]



You're missing the key point here - most tailors can basically only do the style they are trained in. This is not a criticism of their skill, it's just a reality.
My main British tailor I have been working with over the years is trained in the classic English way. Now in his 60s / 70s.
Will make you a beautful English jacket and yes you can change lapel width etc.

Ask him to do an uncanvassed, half lined, shirt shoulder jacket and he is just not gonna want to do it. He's had no training in it. And rightly so - none of his british clients (middle aged solicitors etc who wear pinstripe and braces to work) are going to want that type of thing anyway. There's more it than simply leaving bits and pieces out.

So you can either have a battle with your tailor and get him to do something he has little training in - or, when you want a relaxed Italian suit, arrange an appointment with a renowned Italian tailor.

Now again, if I go to Mr. Naples and say "could you make me a heavily structured Hunstman inspired jacket, canvassed to within an inch of its life" he is just going to look at you strangely and tell that's not his thing.

So sometimes you HAVE to use a different tailor if you want the best example of a different style. It's not a case of "sticking it out" because you're only wasting your own time. Every tailor will not want to do every technique.

No, I'm not missing the point. You need to re-read the first part of my initial post. Jumping from one tailor to another for a small stylistic change is not very smart if you don't have deep pockets. Constantly refining the pattern until its perfect is a bit much. I wish @mafoofan would drop some knowledge on this subject matter. I believe he also drops rhymes on drums!!!!!!


[VIDEO][/VIDEO]


Also, not every british tailor makes structured jackets.

 

[unbelragazzo]

:foo: has said before that 95% of your styling choices are done once you choose your tailor. So I don't think he would agree with your vision that you can start with any competent tailor and just keep iterating until you get what you want.

 

[lordsuperb]



I hate to burst your bubble about mafoofan but that Wii Fit Balance Board under his white sofa? Its just for show, he doesn't actually use it!! I was devastated when I learned that, as I am sure you are now.

Psshhh, whatever man you see those big sleeves. I can see what you don't see, and it looks like it's time for the gun show!!!!

 

[jedwards]

Because there are arguably two camps who post here.

People who basically just want to look nice, or at least their best.
Secondarily, as they progress down this path and if income increases, they want to seek out the best of the thing they are into.

I am one of the above.

The second set - of which I see a lot on here - I can't really relate to and is why I often drifted in and out of this forum over the years when I feel it is going too far in that direction.
They are rules obsessive. This is NOT necessarily about looking nice for them. It's about getting it "right", it's about scrutinising every possible detail against their expertise.

 

[lordsuperb]

Well in that case I guess I don't make as much money as some of the posters on this thread. @dieworkwear I didn't mean to take the joy out of you making a purchase. You write really well and inspire readers (ie ME) to check out new products. Unfortunately, I don't think every poster is able to afford the luxury of trying every new tailor looking to venture stateside.

They will commission a jacket in which it may not be ideal, and then go to the web to complain. I think that does the tailor a disservice especially if it can be fixed or corrected on the next order.

I won't post anymore on the subject, only drop rhymes on drums!!!

 

[Cantabrigian]

YOU WILL DIE IF YOU TRY MORE THAN ONE TAILOR AT A TIME.

 

[Cantabrigian]

^ entirely appropriate use of CAPS lock

 

[Cantabrigian]

T to the 4, I looked on the blog but couldn't find any info re: visit to the Nederlands.

Off the top of your head do you know when that will be or still in the planning stages?

Though I guess it's not too much harder to fly to Naples than to Amsterdam.

 

[riverrun]

Perhaps Mariano and Paone are still in cahoots and this whole thing is an elaborate plan to shake out the fakers from the true LH believers

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



People are oddly dictatorial on this forum. Not meaning Foo or Manton, as I think they've given a lot of insight. But almost every other poster likes to dictate some hardline rule for how something should be worn, how things must be made, or in this thread, how things should be even bought.

Yes, I find that commissions improve on the second or third iteration. At some point, those improvements taper off. I've liked the Rubinacci stuff I've seen on this forum, and since Gennaro was the cutter, this seems like a great opportunity to try him out. Esp since he's now traveling, so your salesperson, fitter, and cutter will be all in one man (which I think is nice). If things work out the first couple of commissions, then maybe I'll order more. I'm not really sure there's much more to it than that.

Are people this rule-bound when they try other things? Like if they buy a car (e.g. "it has to be blue, and you have to stick with the company that made your last car, and it has to have four doors, otherwise you're screwed")? Or when they try a new dish at a restaurant (e.g. "it has to be made by the same cook, and you have to eat it with a fork, and it has to have tomatoes")?

Sometimes this board feels like it rips all the joy out of buying and wearing clothing.

+10 - I've needled dieworkwear in the past on his efforts to bring more tailors to SF, but I agree with the notion that as hobbyists we are entitled to our curiosity. While subsequent garments do get marginally better by virtue of sticking with the same tailor, it's worth noting that not very tailor can knock out a different style.

I use multiple tailors because I enjoy different styles and see no reason for fidelity for the sake of fidelity. My summer suits and tweed sportcoats benefit from a softer touch (which is why I want to try out Paone), while I continue to stick w/ biz suits from KH&L, and simpler overcoats / trousers from a cheaper local option like A-Man in HK. I'm also in the process of trying out a Parisian tailor simply because I'm curious to experience the supposed pinnacle in bespoke construction and finishing.

While all this may just make me sound like a suffering iGent, using several tailors is also pragmatic from a scheduling perspective. Neither dieworkwear or I live close to our chosen tailors, and so it makes sense to have a few in rotation.

 

[chobochobo]

Is that Foo sequence chronological? I like the first and the tuxedo, the rest not so much.

 

[Cantabrigian]



Hmmm the camera picks up every mistake, and these may be the initial commissions. On another note.

Is it even worth members from New York or San Francisco who already use a tailor or multiple tailors to give Gennaro a go for one or two garments? In my opinion you are doing yourself and the tailor a disservice. There will always be human error in which the first 2 or 3 commission will not be ideal. For the misinformed customer he will be turned off and move on to another tailor restarting the whole process in which he will waste a lot of money.

I’ve been browsing this forum for the past 8 years gathering knowledge and from I’ve noticed it benefits a person to stick with one tailor and ride them out through the process. I remember seeing some of @mafoofan and @voxsartoria earlier commission's and thinking these aren't that great. Why pay $4k or more for a suit that is subpar. However, my eyes were opened to the bespoke process with each iteration that was presented. My reaction went from these guys are idiots to WOW I would like to buy a Rubinacci/Steed suit one day.

I think @dieworkwear and other readers who are trying get Gennaro stateside are setting themselves up for failure if they aren’t in it for the long haul. Derek should stick with Steed and have Edwin refine the cut. I’m under the impression that he can make you whatever you desire if you voice it correctly.

Sorry for the long spiel and hopefully I didn't ruin the thread. Have a NICE DAY!!!

Well I, for one, appreciate the fresh perspective of someone who has never ordered anything. No experiences, no preconceptions.

Just clear thinking.

We need more of this.

 

[lordsuperb]



Well I, for one, appreciate the fresh perspective of someone who has never ordered anything. No experiences, no preconceptions.

Just clear thinking.

We need more of this.

Heaven only knows.......... Sorry, I wasn't trying to ruin the thread. I noticed some individuals taking issues with the fit. I think Gennaro is an excellent tailor based on the stuff posted by Mr. Fan. I was trying to imply we don't know if some of these pictures are from the initial commissions as well as the camera doesn't always show the whole picture. Using Matt as an example I initially had some issues with the initial commissions but I think he weathered the storm and ended up with some really nice garments.


I didn't mean to come across as dictatorial, but I think Permanent Style, ASW, and Dieworkwear carry considerable clout with people looking to get into custom clothing. Some discretion may be needed for readers who aren’t in it for the long haul or with deep pockets when dealing with new tailors. I’ve seen it on many occasions where something may not be ideal with the first commission and the customer will get online to complain while other readers will jump in to throw shade. I think that does the customer and the tailor a great disservice. That’s all I wanted to get a cross.



But hey don’t listen to me clearly I’m just some StyleFo dude with no inherent experience and a bunch of preconceptions.

 

[P-K-L]



Heaven only knows.......... Sorry, I wasn't trying to ruin the thread. I noticed some individuals taking issues with the fit. I think Gennaro is an excellent tailor based on the stuff posted by Mr. Fan. I was trying to imply we don't know if some of these pictures are from the initial commissions as well as the camera doesn't always show the whole picture. Using Matt as an example I initially had some issues with the initial commissions but I think he weathered the storm and ended up with some really nice garments.


I didn't mean to come across as dictatorial, but I think Permanent Style, ASW, and Dieworkwear carry considerable clout with people looking to get into custom clothing. Some discretion may be needed for readers who aren’t in it for the long haul or with deep pockets when dealing with new tailors. I’ve seen it on many occasions where something may not be ideal with the first commission and the customer will get online to complain while other readers will jump in to throw shade. I think that does the customer and the tailor a great disservice. That’s all I wanted to get a cross.



But hey don’t listen to me clearly I’m just some StyleFo dude with no inherent experience and a bunch of preconceptions.

Because of you the Paones just started working as seamstresses at Rubinacci.