Engineered Garments SS 21

[Drinkwaters]

As an old soul once told me, as the dust settles, it will have remembrances. This thread is a bitter sweet one and I say this with trepidation as to how it will be taken. We move on from here.
Sixteen years ago we posted the first of many threads dedicated to not only a brand that we embarked on but in support of a friendship seated in a relationship with fashion. Daiki and I were born of a place that seems like a fairy tale but it was real. Louis Boston was a shrine of everything that could be of the highest order. When he arrived in Boston, he lusted for that experience and I was there for the intro.
Through Engineered Garments and Styleforum, we made many friends over the years, some who have left these threads for evolutionary reasons, I get it but I strongly believe that they lurk along and pop up from time to time, you know who you are. It's been a great family of like minded who have enjoyed venturing into an unknown path of fashion with a brand.
So, moving forward, we have made a conscious decision to take a hiatus from Engineered Garments to focus on what works best for our store. This is not to say that genius isn't apparent but more so, what works best for us and our customer is of the highest order.
I have attached as many photos as a new thread will allow. This collection is by far one of the most brilliant but to each his own. Daiki San will always be part of my enculturation to where I / we are as an entity in this crazy world of retailing. Needless to say, I will always be lurking, see you around!
To see the entire Vogue line up. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-menswear/engineered-garments/slideshow/collection#36

 

[pinkchimneys]

The end (or pause) of an era. Hope the store is doing okay through this Republican-made calamity of a pandemic.

EDIT: not a conspiracy theorist, just saying they really messed it up for everybody else.

 

[baltimoron]

Thanks Gary and hope you and everyone at the store are doing well!

 

[Phil McCrackin]

By far the strongest season for many a year .. back to its best for EG .. fair play .. ??

 

[thekunk07]

Eg is close to dead, it is pretty clear angelo was designing everything until the last two seasons. there are brands who do what eg did better. i'd spend on 1st-pat-rn before any of this stuff

 

[pinkchimneys]

Eg is close to dead, it is pretty clear angelo was designing everything until the last two seasons. there are brands who do what eg did better. i'd spend on 1st-pat-rn before any of this stuff

They’re not doing stuff that wows me like when I first found the brand (in particular, the really cool outerwear and jackets they used to make). That could also be familiarity to an extent. I still find things I really like most seasons, even if it’s just a fatigue pant or work shirt in a nice new fabric.

 

[thekunk07]

They’re not doing stuff that wows me like when I first found the brand (in particular, the really cool outerwear and jackets they used to make). That could also be familiarity to an extent. I still find things I really like most seasons, even if it’s just a fatigue pant or work shirt in a nice new fabric.

yeah i am good for 1-2 items each winter i never buy spring/summer

 

[blue peter]

Eg is close to dead, it is pretty clear angelo was designing everything until the last two seasons. there are brands who do what eg did better. i'd spend on 1st-pat-rn before any of this stuff

1st pat rn is a clear homage to eg - without eg they wouldn’t be, imho. Christiano is designing good stuff lately, gear that clearly harkens back to the best of eg. I wonder if daiki isn’t designing for an audience other than us in North America?

anyway, I feel I’ve cooled a bit on eg but can still always find a piece or two I like...

 

[grayfox]

By far the strongest season for many a year .. back to its best for EG .. fair play .. ??

In what way do you find this the strongest? The only piece that stood out to me was the shirt covered in pockets. The last time I was excited for SS was 19 because they had that great lookbook.

 

[thekunk07]

1st pat rn is a clear homage to eg - without eg they wouldn’t be, imho. Christiano is designing good stuff lately, gear that clearly harkens back to the best of eg. I wonder if daiki isn’t designing for an audience other than us in North America?

anyway, I feel I’ve cooled a bit on eg but can still always find a piece or two I like...

wonder who is designing now, he hasn't been in years. just a figurehead

 

[Fycus]

Eg is close to dead, it is pretty clear angelo was designing everything until the last two seasons. there are brands who do what eg did better. i'd spend on 1st-pat-rn before any of this stuff

I don't think Angelo was ever main design input at EG, he was director of marketing, and likely spent most of his time working on collaborations, or retailer relationships (I know he met with a local bloomingdales rep when they had a EG specific display). I'm sure he had input on certain items, but likely not the driving force behind collections. Will be interesting to see how 4S Designs progresses, definitely a tough time with the pandemic.

 

[Peter1]

Sorry to hear Drinkwaters is dropping EG. You can still put together the tradliest of trad outfits with EG/Workaday basics, and I think the casual jackets remain a good buy and something that EG does better than anyone.

This collection looks ... fine. I agree that Daiki is probably not designing mostly for US Menswear 2.0 guys anymore.

I had a "no buy" 2020 for various reasons, and did in fact buy zero clothes except for a few gray/white Ts from Uniqlo. So there's that!

 

[thekunk07]

I don't think Angelo was ever main design input at EG, he was director of marketing, and likely spent most of his time working on collaborations, or retailer relationships (I know he met with a local bloomingdales rep when they had a EG specific display). I'm sure he had input on certain items, but likely not the driving force behind collections. Will be interesting to see how 4S Designs progresses, definitely a tough time with the pandemic.

i know him well he did more than you might think

 

[Fycus]

You're probably right, been following him for the past few years and clearly has a strong pulse on design and brands, would not be surprised if he had his hands on everything, especially given that Nepenthes probably only has so many employees.

 

[ramdomthought]

Where EG still hits for me:

• Cuts look really nice and simple on everything this season. Easy to wear
• Details have come back and gotten smaller and more pronounced (eg: pockets on pockets, bino straps)
• Staples still look great

What I miss (in the lookbook at least)

• cuts look a LOT more straightforward than they used to. I miss having something fit a little wonky so it pushed me to pair it with different things
• fabrics have gotten blander - prints haven't been great and used to be my focal point of the brand. The ripstop they've used in the last few seasons has had the weirdest hand to me that's made it uncomfortable to wear

Could feel a lot of this coming out of Battenwear right now. Both are cool, and it's certainly the brand hitting a new certain stride. Conspires/AIE still hit hard for me though


Also 4s designs fuckin rules. Have bought more from them this season than anyone else. Angelo and team are killing it (though the pricing is killing me).