Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[ellsbebc]

^looks fine to me, but what do I know...

Anyway, my noob question

I recently got my first spread collar shirt from Kamakura.





I don't usually button my shirt all the way up (I leave 2 or 3 unbuttoned). And this leaves the collar looking funny. I was wondering is there a way to fix this eg Ironing the collar down or getting the tailor to add buttons so that it looks like a OCBD?

Why not simply order a OCBD? Kamakura makes shirts with a beautiful collar roll.

Is this jacket too big? Particularly in the chest/shoulders.

Wife thinks it's a bit boxy in the shoulders....and maybe a little long. It's a 42L, I'm 6'2 with 34 inseam. I know I will need to let the sleeves out (and possibly bring in the waist)

Does this button stance seem high to anyone else? Guess that goes with the trendy part of the short-ish, but acceptable, jacket length.

 

[ImTheGroom]

Does this button stance seem high to anyone else? Guess that goes with the trendy part of the short-ish, but acceptable, jacket length.

Looking at it again, it is on the higher side, but I would not call it too high. Just toward the high end of the normal range. I don't know how tall froughtie is, but the shorter-than-average jacket, with the slightly higher button stance in proportion, can help to create an illusion of more height for us short guys. When you're wearing separates, this can help you look a bit better, if the whole fit is working.

 

[ImTheGroom]

I'd like to press my bow tie before a party tonight. Silk, adjustable. I'm thinking use the silk setting, and put a towel between the tie and the iron. Yes? No? Other?

Also, windex on my patent leather? Saw it in other threads; seems to make sense. They're these ones, so I assume pretty cheap leather, if it can be even be called that:
http://www.zappos.com/calvin-klein-guilford

Cross post from State of Black Tie. Thoughts? Suggestions of other threads where I would get a good answer? Leaving for the party in around 3 or 4 hours.

 

[mimo]

ITG: yes - if it really needs it. And if that's not working, just increase the temperature gradually. My suggestion for patent shoes is to wipe with a damp cloth and buff with a dry one. If they do need an extra "zing", then glass or furniture polish would also be my suggestion - but put a bit on the cloth, not on the shoe, or it might spot.

 

[DjangoV]

How can you tell if a jacket is orphaned or odd?

Apart from the jacket in question I did not read an answer as to determine whether a jacket is orphaned or odd. Anyone?

I wil probably drop by some thrift shops tommorrow and expect that (based on prior experience) the majority of jackets will be orphaned. The really REALLY obvious I can pick out, but are there any tell-tale signs I should focus on for the less obvious orphans?

 

[froughtie]



If anything, it's on the shorter side of things, but the length is fine. Definitely looks like there's some padding on the shoulders though.

Thanks. weird you think it's short. It's the longest jacket I own

The shoulder width is fine, but it is structured.. Try a soft shoulder model.

It's the last one they had. Should I return it or wear it differently?

I concur - it's not the fit, it's just a little incongruent with jeans, especially with the cuffs turned up like that.

Thanks, I guess I'll try it on with some proper pants.

Looking at it again, it is on the higher side, but I would not call it too high.  Just toward the high end of the normal range.  I don't know how tall froughtie is, but the shorter-than-average jacket, with the slightly higher button stance in proportion, can help to create an illusion of more height for us short guys.  When you're wearing separates, this can help you look a bit better, if the whole fit is working.

I'm 6'2, probably 6'4 in that picture since I was wearing tall boots

 

[mimo]

Django,

Leave the jacket in question, because it looks horrible: dated style, boxy cut, glued lapels possibly, and yes, definitely looks like an orphan. And if you say "Hugo Boss" on StyleForum, the coordinated weight of sneering might push Los Angeles into the Pacific.

It might be easier to ask the question the other way around: what does a sports jacket or blazer look like, against a normal suit jacket? Most of the former can also look fine as part of a suit, unless perhaps they have swelled seams, that would look odd except perhaps as part of some kind of safari or retro-sporty outfit. But generally, it's an odd jacket if:

- it has no padding in the shoulders or very little; some jackets are very structured, and some suits less, but it's unusual to see a really soft-shouldered suit

- it is half-lined; rare on a suit, common on a summer jacket

- it has swelled seams, typical of a more casual odd jacket

- it has a very heavy and/or soft cloth, that would be hard to maintain a crease in trousers

- it has cloth of a very strong texture, e.g. a fluffy herringbone or a donegal tweed; there are such suits, but unusual, largely because, as above, the trousers won't keep any shape

- it has a very large or bold pattern; exceptions are found, especially as windowpanes are in vogue on all the style blogs, but you're still unlikely to see a gunclub check suit

- it has very contrasting buttons e.g mother of pearl against blue, or light brown against a darker cloth, or brass/gold of course

- it has patch pockets or bellows pockets; the former can be put on a suit specifically to make the jacket usable separately without looking like an "orphan" (hence the term "blazer suit), the latter would be unusual unless it's a safari suit

Two more differences looking back from your direction, suggesting it might be a suit if:

- it has an especially smooth or shiny tone

- it has a style and colour that is very classic-business e.g. a pin or chalk stripe on blue, charcoal or grey, or a very fine herringbone or birdseye in one of those colours.

Oh, and there are not many double-breasted odd jackets. Though I had one made recently!

Those are a few things off the top of my head. So in the case of your nasty Hugo Boss number, some giveaways that it's an orphan are the besom ("jetted) pockets, the light, smooth cloth, the carefully understated matching buttons, and the lack of any other distinguishing personality. It looks a lot like a jacket that's supposed to blend, rather than contrast. Maybe that's the point.

 

[DjangoV]

Django,

Leave the jacket in question, because it looks horrible: dated style, boxy cut, glued lapels possibly, and yes, definitely looks like an orphan. And if you say "Hugo Boss" on StyleForum, the coordinated weight of sneering might push Los Angeles into the Pacific.

It might be easier to ask the question the other way around: what does a sports jacket or blazer look like, against a normal suit jacket? Most of the former can also look fine as part of a suit, unless perhaps they have swelled seams, that would look odd except perhaps as part of some kind of safari or retro-sporty outfit. But generally, it's an odd jacket if:

- it has no padding in the shoulders or very little; some jackets are very structured, and some suits less, but it's unusual to see a really soft-shouldered suit

- it is half-lined; rare on a suit, common on a summer jacket

- it has swelled seams, typical of a more casual odd jacket

- it has a very heavy and/or soft cloth, that would be hard to maintain a crease in trousers

- it has cloth of a very strong texture, e.g. a fluffy herringbone or a donegal tweed; there are such suits, but unusual, largely because, as above, the trousers won't keep any shape

- it has a very large or bold pattern; exceptions are found, especially as windowpanes are in vogue on all the style blogs, but you're still unlikely to see a gunclub check suit

- it has very contrasting buttons e.g mother of pearl against blue, or light brown against a darker cloth, or brass/gold of course

- it has patch pockets or bellows pockets; the former can be put on a suit specifically to make the jacket usable separately without looking like an "orphan" (hence the term "blazer suit), the latter would be unusual unless it's a safari suit

Two more differences looking back from your direction, suggesting it might be a suit if:

- it has an especially smooth or shiny tone

- it has a style and colour that is very classic-business e.g. a pin or chalk stripe on blue, charcoal or grey, or a very fine herringbone or birdseye in one of those colours.

Oh, and there are not many double-breasted odd jackets. Though I had one made recently!

Those are a few things off the top of my head. So in the case of your nasty Hugo Boss number, some giveaways that it's an orphan are the besom ("jetted) pockets, the light, smooth cloth, the carefully understated matching buttons, and the lack of any other distinguishing personality. It looks a lot like a jacket that's supposed to blend, rather than contrast. Maybe that's the point.

Thanks for the detailed answer. Exactly what I wanted to know. The Hugo Boss in question was already of the table minutes after I initially posted.

 

[losrockets]

I really like how this thread works and got some good advice last time so I'm back again. Local consignment store has a pair of light gray flannel RL Rugby pants for sale. They're 70% Wool/30% poly, and would need a little bit of tailoring. Normally I don't like poly but these feel really great, but the owner is trying to sell them for $50. When I pointed out the polyester content she was willing to drop the price to $45, but that still seems too high to me. I picked up some Barbera pants from the same place for $60 and BR Monogram pants (not top flight, I know) for $25 and I feel like regardless of the brand, these should fall closer to the BR pants than the Barbera.

Thoughts? Any of you own "nice" pants with poly in them or are y'all strictly opposed to it?

 

[WickedKlown]

Need help repicking second suit color. I say repicking because I had a black pinstripe suit but had to return the jacket due to a defect. They no longer have the size I need. So as of right now I have a glen plaid charcoal suit that I love. I'm looking in to either a navy or grey suit, as well as black. I know you really can't go wrong with a navy one, but do I go with a medium or dark color navy. The suits will be worn for special occasions. If it helps at all the shoes I have right now are black cap toes, cognac wingtips and med/dark red monk straps.

 

[cptjeff]



Need help repicking second suit color. I say repicking because I had  a black pinstripe suit but had to return the jacket due to a defect. They no longer have the size I need. So as of right now I have a glen plaid charcoal suit that I love. I'm looking in to either a navy or grey suit, as well as black. I know you really can't go wrong with a navy one, but do I go with a medium or dark color navy. The suits will be worn for special occasions. If it helps at all the shoes I have right now are black cap toes, cognac wingtips and med/dark red monk straps.

Plain navy.

 

[loarbmhs]

Need help repicking second suit color. I say repicking because I had a black pinstripe suit but had to return the jacket due to a defect. They no longer have the size I need. So as of right now I have a glen plaid charcoal suit that I love. I'm looking in to either a navy or grey suit, as well as black. I know you really can't go wrong with a navy one, but do I go with a medium or dark color navy. The suits will be worn for special occasions. If it helps at all the shoes I have right now are black cap toes, cognac wingtips and med/dark red monk straps.

Plain navy.

Dark navy, hands down. And under no circumstances should you buy a black suit, ever (unless you're a waiter or an undertaker). If it's any value to you, the best Savile Row tailors will not even consider making a black suit. Your next two suits should be navy solid and charcoal gray solid. End of story.

 

[ridethecliche]

Agreed. RTC, I suggest your darkest suit, and black grosgrain, or similar, four in hand tie.

Oy. I was dead set on wearing a bow tie. Let me see what I can come up with...

I have three suits: Grey, Black, and Khaki. I have a navy suit as well, but the pants are at the tailor so it's out of the question for now.

I'll go with the grey suit and wear the navy vest. If it looks off, I'll take off the vest. Still debating the tie, but I was really hoping to wear a bow tie. I have a black patterned bow tie. I might have to try that. My 'date' is wearing a red dress. Hence the red bow tie. Must rethink all of this.

 

[Bill Dlwgosh]

Hi, I have a 'Quick Question'.

The jacket I'm wearing below is a 44L Samuelsohn with measurments of:
Shoulder seem to seem: 19.5"
Sleeve seem at shoulder to bottom of cuff:25.5"
Chest: 23"
Waist: 22"
Length from the bottom of the collar: 31.5"

I'm looking at a Canali 46L on eBay with measurements of:

• Shoulder: 20" (shoulder seam to shoulder seam)
• Chest: 24" (armpit to armpit)
• Waist: 22.75" (2nd button from the bottom)
• Sleeve: 24.75" (shoulder to sleeve)
• Extra Sleeve Fabric: 1.25"
• Length: 33.5" (bottom of collar to bottom hem)

I'm just wondering if anyone would have an educated guess as whether the measurements of the new jacket sound like they'd add up to something that a tailor could get to fit me reasonably well? The length would be my biggest concern.




As Always, Thank You
-Bill

 

[mimo]

I would say leave it. Buying jackets online is a real lottery. Two things are a problem: if the shoulders and chest are too big, they're hard to adjust, although in this case maybe just a tiny bit. But if it's two inches too long, the pockets and button stance will look odd when it's shortened.

Pass, wait for one your size! And do a quick search on SF for "44R" or something: we're about the same size and I've seen some beauties on here, both in the buy and sell and eBay links, that look more promising for you.