Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[thrice]

Originally Posted by onix

Yes. Navy tie, either solid or subtle patterns.

Thanks

Originally Posted by 1969

I wouldn't do it personally, unless it was a festive and formal occasion. Brown goes well with Navy and pink so I would try a brown tie.
It's for partys and such. I don't wear a suit for work.

 

[pat pearson]

Is it worth it to alter a Burberry Trench? Ive got a size 54 that my mom bought me for Xmas a year back and I'm alot closer to a size 50. When I've got it on, I personally think it just looks baggy and ruins the look of a trench.

Would a top quality tailor be able to fix this or should I just put it up for sale and get a new one?

 

[onix]

Originally Posted by pat pearson

Is it worth it to alter a Burberry Trench? Ive got a size 54 that my mom bought me for Xmas a year back and I'm alot closer to a size 50. When I've got it on, I personally think it just looks baggy and ruins the look of a trench.

Would a top quality tailor be able to fix this or should I just put it up for sale and get a new one?

I would put it up for sale. Going down from 54 is 52 is one thing, from 54 to 50, though doable, may not worth the while, since it will change the original shape/design visibly. Of course, if you still want to keep it since it's from mom, you can have it altered. Depending on the actual design, any decent tailor can fix it.

 

[St. John]

A couple of questions about suits from a man just getting in to finer dress.

1. What would one expect to pay a decent tailor for alterations to a suit? I was gifted a fairly nice suit (Zegna) that has never been worn by a relative of mine. I need to have the pants let out slightly, and hemmed. I need the sleeves shortened and (I don't know the technical term for this) the jacket opened (?) (there is a slight pull when the top button is fastened). I was quoted a price of C$135 for this work. I have no idea if this a good price or not. Is there any way of determining the quality of a tailor before having him or her do the work, other than via recommendation? I am in Toronto. Perhaps someone familiar with tailors in the city might be able to make a recommendation?

2. I have a limited budget for my wardrobe. I've been reading a lot of the threads on this forum, and getting a sense of some of the brands that tend to be of good quality for a not unreasonable price (at least for my budget - C$1500-1800). One of things I've noticed is the general lack of approval of some of the brands that are priced in the C$ 850-1100 price range (Hugo Boss, Ted Baker, Strellson etc.). My question is in two parts: A) Would brands in this category be worth pursuing if found at a significant discount, or should I just stay away from them entirely? I'll admit to owning a couple of Hugo Boss dress shirts (both gifted as part of my necessary groomsman attire) and they both fit me quite nicely. Were I to find a Hugo Boss suit at C$350, the going rate for a department store suit, would it be worth my while? I guess the question is, is there a price at which these suits become a good idea, or does the quality make them a no go regardless of price? And, B) Are there brands in this C$1000 range that are worth seeking out? A shop up the street from me advertises the brands Sand and Tiger of Sweden. Are these any good?

Thanks in advance to all who answer.

 

[cptjeff]

Originally Posted by Surreal

Why all high-end dress shoes have a leather sole without a rubber protector/layer?

I am asking since it's impossible to actually walk with shoes that have a leather sole. They slip and the leather breaks down quickly on asphalt, so all of them have to be taken to a tailor to have it attach a leather protector.

What's up with that?

Try actually walking on them for a while. The scuffing is only on the surface, it takes the sole a while to actually wear out. and once the sole is scuffed up, you'll have more grip.

As for the actual why, it's because high end dress shoes are made using traditional techniques, and the better they are, the less shortcuts they take. Until the 1900s, there was no such thing as rubber on the sole of a shoe. Then they invented the rubber heel, with was a chunk of rubber that was nailed on in place of the stacked leather heel or was used in place of the top bottom layer of leather.

Also, you do realize that when the sole does wear out, you can have it replaced, right?

 

[acecow]

Originally Posted by St. John

A couple of questions about suits from a man just getting in to finer dress.

1. What would one expect to pay a decent tailor for alterations to a suit? I was gifted a fairly nice suit (Zegna) that has never been worn by a relative of mine. I need to have the pants let out slightly, and hemmed. I need the sleeves shortened and (I don't know the technical term for this) the jacket opened (?) (there is a slight pull when the top button is fastened). I was quoted a price of C$135 for this work. I have no idea if this a good price or not. Is there any way of determining the quality of a tailor before having him or her do the work, other than via recommendation? I am in Toronto. Perhaps someone familiar with tailors in the city might be able to make a recommendation?

C$135 is rather cheap for that kind of work. I know some people here pay even less and swear by the results, but in my experience (and I've tried 4 different tailors in my area), the only acceptable results were from the tailor who charged twice as much. He knows he's good and he deserves to be paid more. All other tailors were horrible and I wouldn't even let them do any simple alterations for me after knowing what the better tailor can and will do.

So, the price seems a little suspicious. If you knew you were the best, would you charge an average price? I doubt it...

Also, I don't know how new you are to clothing and alterations, but if you are new, you will not be able to tell right away the difference in the quality of work that different tailors do. Your best bet is to not rush it, but to find out on this forum about experienced tailors in your area. You can start a thread in the MC forum and people will provide some insight.

You probably want that suit ASAP, but don't ruin a good suit by not doing your research first. Also, post some fit pics, maybe you won't need serious alterations after all (doubt it).

 

[Makoto Chan]

Hi, firsttimeposterhere,

I was hoping to buy a Brooks Brothers navy blazer, but was disappointed to find that they don't carry a 36 regular in store or online. In fact, the salesperson told me they don't sell a 36 regular at all, only a short.

Three questions:

Is it really impossible to buy a 36R blazer from Brooks Brothers? Initial website searching seemed to confirm it, but maybe I'm missing something?

How bad is it to wear a 36S? The point is that the shoulders of a 36 fit me well, and I thought the arm length wasn't so bad, but the salesperson was firm that it didn't fit, judging by the bottom of the suit, he said. There is a language barrier (I live in Japan) so we couldnt communicate so well, which is why I'm asking for SF thoughts.

Where is a better alternative to look for a blazer in a similar price range? I am a slim guy (5'11, 140 lbs) and was looking at the BB Fitzgerald, which I've read on SF is the slimmest fit. If you think this blazer is terrible, please feel free to point me in the right direction.

Thank you

 

[St. John]

Originally Posted by acecow

C$135 is rather cheap for that kind of work. I know some people here pay even less and swear by the results, but in my experience (and I've tried 4 different tailors in my area), the only acceptable results were from the tailor who charged twice as much. He knows he's good and he deserves to be paid more. All other tailors were horrible and I wouldn't even let them do any simple alterations for me after knowing what the better tailor can and will do.

So, the price seems a little suspicious. If you knew you were the best, would you charge an average price? I doubt it...

Also, I don't know how new you are to clothing and alterations, but if you are new, you will not be able to tell right away the difference in the quality of work that different tailors do. Your best bet is to not rush it, but to find out on this forum about experienced tailors in your area. You can start a thread in the MC forum and people will provide some insight.

You probably want that suit ASAP, but don't ruin a good suit by not doing your research first. Also, post some fit pics, maybe you won't need serious alterations after all (doubt it).

Thank you for this. I did think it was low, but really have nothing to go on. The only "nice" sports jacket I've ever purchased was tailored as part of the purchase cost at Harry Rosen.

I will seek out some recommendations from those with more experience.

Thanks.

 

[mrchapel]

Anyone know where I can get a red gingham shirt?

 

[poissa]

Originally Posted by cptjeff

Lexol.

If I use the Lexol conditioner will it strip the previous applications of wax. A saleman at Leffot said Saphir Renovateur does. Hence my question. Thanks.

 

[onix]

Originally Posted by poissa

If I use the Lexol conditioner will it strip the previous applications of wax. A saleman at Leffot said Saphir Renovateur does. Hence my question. Thanks.

I have used Lexol, Saphir and AE conditioners over the years. And my observation is that if both applications (previous polishing, and new conditioning) were done correctly, then they're the same. If you use too much polishing wax, and didn't buff all of the excessive wax out, then the next time applying conditioner, you will notice that the excessive wax is stripped. Also, if you use excessive mount of conditioner, you will see this effect. The main point is, use enough, just a little works wonder. All brands are the same, no difference noticed.

 

[JamesX]

Why is this jacket so short? Or is that how it suppose to look?

http://www.aspinaloflondon.com/asset.../images/06.jpg

Saw someone wear something similar at a Wedding last week, and thought it looked ridiculous.

 

[bleachboy]

Originally Posted by mrchapel

Anyone know where I can get a red gingham shirt?

http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=men's+red+gingham+shirt

 

[polar-lemon]

Originally Posted by Cant kill da Rooster

Since a BB opened close by, I have been trying to figure out who makes their current lines of shoes. Searches indicate C&J and AS but I haven't found a recent post. When I had asked the BB SA, the response was..."We make them. They are all made by Brooks Brothers in a factory we own." Bullshit. Can anyone tell me?

Peal line is made by CJ and AS; a single row of nails in the heel is the former, a double row is the latter. On the Dainite-soled models, it's harder to tell. The most popular CJ lasts used on Peal items are the 240 and 325, so if you see those numbers written inside the shoe, it's probably CJ. Quality to my eye and in my experience owning both is indistinguishable. Sometimes the CJ leather soled models lack channeled soles, which is odd to me.

Made in US is Alden.

Italy, no one has figured out, but consensus is that it's crap and you should stay away.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by Makoto Chan

How bad is it to wear a 36S?
I am a slim guy (5'11, 140 lbs)

At 5'11", a 36S is definitely going to be too short.