Advice on Ivory Dinner Jacket for Wedding

[Anon007]

Hello,

I am considering wearing an ivory dinner jacket for my wedding but am looking for some advice before making the decision. I understand that generally rules dictate that an ivory DJ only be worn between Memorial Day and Labor Day or in sub-tropical climates. I am getting married in October in Los Angeles (black tie), so I realize that at best, this is pushing the boundaries of traditional acceptability (my fiancee really likes the look of an ivory DJ plus I would look different than the rest of the attendees). However, assuming I decide to go in this direction, here are my questions:

1. Shawl collar or peak lapel? I like both but the jacket I am looking at (SuitSupply Lazio custom) only has a buttonhole for a boutonnière on the peak lapel, so that is pushing me towards the peak.

2. Grosgrain or self faced lapel? It seems like self facing is the most traditional but I believe Bond's jacket in spectre had a faille lapel which is closer to grosgrain.

3. What do you think of the lapels on the 2 jackets below? Should I keep that width or go narrower? (Note I have the peak lapel jacket in black and really like the overall fit and look of it)

4. Any other thoughts on these 2 DJs or whether I should just stick with black? Thank you.

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

If I were in your shoes I’d choose the peak lapel - every time. I think it’s sharper. I’ve always preferred peak lapels on a dinner jacket.

Regarding whether or not to choose an ivory jacket - honestly it’s 2023, the accepted norms of olden times are so forgotten by most of society at this point that I would choose whatever jacket you like better and wear it. I would bet everything I had that no one will ever mention the fact that you are wearing an ivory jacket in October. Congrats on your wedding.

 

[Anon007]

If I were in your shoes I’d choose the peak lapel - every time. I think it’s sharper. I’ve always preferred peak lapels on a dinner jacket.

Thanks for your reply! Would you go with grosgrain or self facing on peak lapels?

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

Thanks for your reply! Would you go with grosgrain or self facing on peak lapels?

I would personally choose self facing. My personal preference.

 

[maxalex]

Personally not a fan of peak lapels on SB jackets, whether day or evening wear. I just don’t like the flare, which to me resembles bat wings. (On a DB that flare is mitigated.) My tuxedo is shawl collar. But that’s just my preference.

You can ignore that silly American rule about white only between holidays that the rest of the world doesn’t even observe. That’s like the shopworn British rule of “no brown in town.” Spare me. A white dinner jacket will be fine, any time of year.

I have seen button holes on shawl collars. I do not approve.

 

[Anon007]

Personally not a fan of peak lapels on SB jackets, whether day or evening wear. I just don’t like the flare, which to me resembles bat wings. (On a DB that flare is mitigated.) My tuxedo is shawl collar. But that’s just my preference.

I have seen button holes on shawl collars. I do not approve.

On ivory, is your preference for the shawl to be self facing? What do you think about the width/shape of the shawl on the DJ I posted (I’m thinking of going with that exact one).

Agreed on the button hole unless the wearer is going to have a flower 100% of the time… that is my one concern about the shawl, though. Since I plan to use this for my wedding, should I just have a magnetized flower so I don’t damage the shawl?

 

[maxalex]

On ivory, is your preference for the shawl to be self facing? What do you think about the width/shape of the shawl on the DJ I posted (I’m thinking of going with that exact one).

Agreed on the button hole unless the wearer is going to have a flower 100% of the time… that is my one concern about the shawl, though. Since I plan to use this for my wedding, should I just have a magnetized flower so I don’t damage the shawl?

I would go self facing. For me that shawl is a bit wide at the clasp, but just my preference. If you like it, all good.

You can pin a boutonnière on a self-facing lapel without damaging the fabric. Or consider instead a colorful silk pocket square. Good luck.

 

[Anon007]

I would go self facing. For me that shawl is a bit wide at the clasp, but just my preference. If you like it, all good.

You can pin a boutonnière on a self-facing lapel without damaging the fabric. Or consider instead a colorful silk pocket square. Good luck.

I agree and would prefer it to not be so wide at the clasp but only way to adjust is to make the whole thing narrower, as pictured below.

 

[circumspice]

I am more in the vein of dress with seasons, not to rules.

LA has an average high of 78.9F/25.9C in Oct -> I am down with ivory in that context.

On the shawl lapel buttonhole thing - this feels like one of menswear's Bloods vs Crips things. I don't think I have ever really heard a convincing argument against it, so I view it really as a matter of taste.

 

[Anon007]

I am more in the vein of dress with seasons, not to rules.

LA has an average high of 78.9F/25.9C in Oct -> I am down with ivory in that context.

On the shawl lapel buttonhole thing - this feels like one of menswear's Bloods vs Crips things. I don't think I have ever really heard a convincing argument against it, so I view it really as a matter of taste.

Haha, there’s actually no choice for me to get a buttonhole on the shawl so either I just pin to the lapel or go with peak instead.

I think biggest decisions are shawl or peak, the width of the shawl, and grosgrain or self-facing. 😅

 

[Leiker]

There's an active thread here that might also be of help:

The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Felt like posting this image, a still frame from a video I made recently extolling the virtues of Le Noeud Papillon, my bow tie maker. This is my midnight blue rig, with a cummerbund instead of a waistcoat, though. Pleated voile shirt from Budd, as is the cummerbund; pocket square is from...

www.styleforum.net

 

[ValidusLA]

If ever there was a DJ to get a shawl on its an ivory DJ.

I like the wide shawl w/ the bellies, but its not for everyone.

I would self face.

Good job on the LA BT wedding. Too few of us left!

 

[Anon007]

Just ordered the ivory DJ with the self-face wide shawl and went with white MOP buttons and opted for a full canvas. Will report on how it turns out!

 

[Anon007]

I would go self facing. For me that shawl is a bit wide at the clasp, but just my preference. If you like it, all good.

You can pin a boutonnière on a self-facing lapel without damaging the fabric. Or consider instead a colorful silk pocket square. Good luck.

My wedding planner is suggesting a pocket boutonniere--what do you think?

Something like this: