@diadem , would you happen to have any fit photos BEFORE the alternations were done? Like when they just arrived fresh out of the box?
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Styleforum Top Pickspost #1112 of 26729/30/12 at 1:08amQuote:Originally Posted by thisfits
Pretty much everything in the above paragraph sounds awesome ... new Napoli model ... special order Classicos ...
I'm assuming special order only applies to suits and not the new Benjamin sport coats, right?
I'd love to try out the Napoli ... I'm happy with my Classico, but on me the shoulders could be about a half-inch narrower.
+1 to all this including the half inch narrower on the shoulders. It's the only fit issue on me that kind of bugs me about the Classico although I am sure 99.9% of people outside of SF wouldn't even notice.post #1113 of 26729/30/12 at 8:44ampost #1114 of 26729/30/12 at 11:02ampost #1115 of 26729/30/12 at 5:51pmpost #1116 of 267210/1/12 at 5:55amQuote:Originally Posted by New Shoes1
Looks good, but why is the lapel line straight on your left side, but curved and pulled away from your collar on your right side? I have the same issue with my classico, but it is more pronounced on mine (see below). Is this the same collar gap people talked about earlier? Is there an easy fix for a tailor?
Hmmm... from the pics I thought it was more because of holding up the camera, but I assume you see a gap when both arms are to the side? This collar gap issue is a tough one, because I don't see it on myself or the people around when they try it on, and only a small minority seems to have an issue with it. I made the collar a little bit smaller for the Classico model, but my technician warned against adjusting it too much especially since it only seemed like a small minority of people that were affected by it. Maybe I need to shorten it a little bit more?post #1117 of 267210/1/12 at 5:59amQuote:Originally Posted by EMartNJ
Z, I think your issues are coming from your posture. Your shoulders sit back which makes your chest wide and is causing the lapels to bow. The line from the buttoning point to where it curves around your neck should be straight. What is curious is that the shoulders seem too wide but the chest too tight. I have no idea how to fix it, but that is what appears to be going on with your jackets. You can see it in your shirt as well.
Yes I'd have to agree - it does seem your shoulders sit back further than "normal". Interesting that you find the shoulders too wide and chest too tight. Does anyone else have this experience also? The only feedback I've gotten before regarding the shoulders is from a few people expressing they were too narrow!post #1118 of 267210/1/12 at 6:00ampost #1119 of 267210/1/12 at 6:04ampost #1120 of 267210/1/12 at 6:05amQuote:Originally Posted by diadem
Hey, guys! This is my first post here and I'd like to share a picture of my navy 36R Classico. I just got it back from the tailor after a few alterations were made. Take a look. I'm about 5'11" and 140 pounds, so needless to say I'm quite the skinny bastard. The tailor took in the waist at the back and even messed with the darts on the front of the jacket to get the desired silhouette. I have a long torso, so the jacket seems a bit short, but I'm ok with that. There aren't a whole lot of places that stock a size 36L, after all, and I can't afford a made-to-measure suit at the moment, at least not a fully canvassed one like this Classico is. So any comments or criticisms? Did the tailor screw up anywhere? Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!
Looks good to me! yes I suppose the sleeves can go a tad shorter, but looks clean and well fitted!post #1121 of 267210/1/12 at 6:34amQuote:
Not sure yet... will probably make it available in the sport coats also...post #1122 of 267210/1/12 at 6:40amQuote:
As soon as possible, but currently waiting for a test order to come through to inspect (for both models). Yes we are getting the second part of the Classico suit shipment in the next week or two (in the US).post #1123 of 267210/1/12 at 6:42amQuote:
Hmm. Anyone else with the suits want to weigh in? I would not say the shoulders are all that strong at all. Structured, yes, but not strong and the padding is quite light as well.post #1124 of 267210/1/12 at 7:38am
Thanks for the response.
I personally would not call the shoulders on the Classico "strong." I have broad shoulders as it is, so I try to avoid shoulder padding. The Classico is well within my acceptable range.
A couple more questions:
post #1125 of 267210/1/12 at 8:17amQuote:Originally Posted by eHaberdasher
- Do you sell suit separates, or work with customers that might need a jacket of one size and trousers of another?
- As a general rule of thumb, do you suggest choosing trousers that fit better in the seat (where the rise is a too big) or fit better in terms of rise (where the seat might need to be let out)?
- Do you take preorders on solid Classico suits?
Hmmm... from the pics I thought it was more because of holding up the camera, but I assume you see a gap when both arms are to the side? This collar gap issue is a tough one, because I don't see it on myself or the people around when they try it on, and only a small minority seems to have an issue with it. I made the collar a little bit smaller for the Classico model, but my technician warned against adjusting it too much especially since it only seemed like a small minority of people that were affected by it. Maybe I need to shorten it a little bit more?
Ben: I absolutely see the same gap even when standing with my arms at my sides. And, I do not think it is an issue of needing to narrow the collar as much as it is of needing to make sure the front of the jacket aligns correctly. On a hunch, I measured at various places of the jacket and found that, at the top button, the side with the collar gap is a half inch wider than the other side (measured with the jacket buttoned from the furthest dart to the center of the button), which is why the jacket pulls so severely to the other side. I also now notice that the button sits slightly off-center to the non-gap side.
I do not know if I got a bad jacket or if the manufacturer repeated the same mistake on other jackets, but the issue on my jacket is less with the collar and more with the fact that the entire jacket (including the button) pulls to one side.
Edited by New Shoes1 - 10/1/12 at 8:45am
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