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What is wrong with Brioni? - Page 4

post #46 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post

What means those words? Never seen those before.

Being shocked by something - like from old movies, where a woman would gasp and hold her pearl necklace and say something like "my stars!" lol
post #47 of 134
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrong Crowd View Post
 

I'm glad that there's a thread about this because I have been confused about the direction Brioni has been taking ever since I saw the Metallica announcement. The article that Dandy Wonka posted has a comment from a Brioni employee:

 

"In the mind of the megalomaniacs at Kering, there exists a client that is young, thin and very affluent who likes to wear his garments close to his body."

 

OK, I am 29, I work out a lot, I'm not at the point yet where I can buy OTR Brioni but I'm getting close, and I wear shirt stays sometimes to keep my shirt close to the body in the back so I guess the last one kind of applies to me? If someone put a gun to my head and told me to dress as nicely as I possibly could, to me, that means a suit like the ones Brioni used to make. Now, if I had to buy a suit like that, I would go to Kiton.

 

I also like the point gs77 made about image. I've been reading a lot about the upcoming election and I have seen a couple mentions of Trump talking about wearing Brioni in mainstream, non-fashion news- being associated with Trump can only hurt Brioni if they want to appeal to Millennial customers. I realize that nothing I say is groundbreaking, but I wanted to add my two cents to this discussion as someone pretty squarely in the demographic that Brioni is selling their birthright to appeal to.

Spot on. I don't how Trump hurts the brand or how aspiring individuals have an aversion to Trump and his suits by default. Brioni still makes a nice product, i bought my three Brioni suits within a year, aged 32,  but a 70s hipster suit is definitely one that will crush your chances for a job interview. In the end suits are business tools and not a hipster's self expression. Again reading an interview with a guy who speaks like a pimp makes Trump sound like an academic!

post #48 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquafortis View Post

A quote from O'Shea in his interview from the Vogue article:

"The mood of the '70s I find to be the most exciting in terms of where I live mentally."

I think that just about sums it up...UGH. 

Not necessarily bad - Tom Ford is after same aesthetics, with great success.
post #49 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post


Not necessarily bad - Tom Ford is after same aesthetics, with great success.

 

True not necessarily.

 

What one does with that creative inspiration is the tell all.

 

And if this is the result?:

http://www.brioni.com/us/shop-product/men/leisure-shirt_cod38573332ju.html

post #50 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Being shocked by something - like from old movies, where a woman would gasp and hold her pearl necklace and say something like "my stars!" lol

Thanks i had no idea what that meant either
post #51 of 134

The Brioni brand was built on fashion and celebrity. It was the first brand to put on a menswear runway show, unheard of in the 50s, and it actively courted movie stars and made it's name on glamor and red carpet. It's a brand that, much like Gucci, lost much of it's luster in its latter years, mostly due to the placement in high end stores as a "mature" man's brand, and the buying by retailers for that customer. If you were in a Neiman Marcus, say, 5-10 years ago, you'd imagine that the target customer was Arnold Palmer, who, whille a great golfer in his day, was hardly a glamorous figure in the 00s.

 

I agree with Parisian Gentleman's assessment to focus on tailored looks, but I also think that differentiating itself from something like Kiton is important. It simply has a very different DNA than the other brands he mentions (Isaia, Kiton, Cifonelli). It's DNA is much closer to that of Tom Ford, and maybe some Tom Ford style and level of marketing would bring back that "sexiness" that is core to Brioni.

 

I am not sure of the new logo, and I agree that the red logo shown earlier here may be a better match.

 

Celebrity outreach is also very important to all of these brands (I get emails from Isaia about who was spotted wearing Isaia in what show, daily), and Brioni clearly needs to really figure out the right guys to target. The Metallica thing is silly. However, I could see a bunch of guys who would make great Brioni models, and who are much more in tune with the DNA of Brioni than are Metallica. Here would be a few of my suggestions, who span at least two generations, but all of whom own an image of a mature roguishness and/or a type of "sexiness" that is appealing to men. IMO, anyone younger or younger looking than say, 40, would probably not work. I really see their DNA as more Hollywood, and less rock and roll: Sean Connery, Jack Nicholson, Bradley Cooper, George Clooney, Russell Crowe, Liam Neeson, Hugh Jackman, Michael Fassbender, Idris Elba, Ewan McGregor.

 

Re. "heavily tattoo'ed", that's just par for the course in the clothing business these days, and has no connotations, one way or the other. Every second designer has full sleeves and tattoos up to their neck. I used to be the only non-tatted guy in MMA, but now I'm also the only non-tatted up dude at many tradeshows.

post #52 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

The Brioni brand was built on fashion and celebrity. It was the first brand to put on a menswear runway show, unheard of in the 50s, and it actively courted movie stars and made it's name on glamor and red carpet. It's a brand that, much like Gucci, lost much of it's luster in its latter years, mostly due to the placement in high end stores as a "mature" man's brand, and the buying by retailers for that customer. If you were in a Neiman Marcus, say, 5-10 years ago, you'd imagine that the target customer was Arnold Palmer, who, whille a great golfer in his day, was hardly a glamorous figure in the 00s.

I agree with Parisian Gentleman's assessment to focus on tailored looks, but I also think that differentiating itself from something like Kiton is important. It simply has a very different DNA than the other brands he mentions (Isaia, Kiton, Cifonelli). It's DNA is much closer to that of Tom Ford, and maybe some Tom Ford style and level of marketing would bring back that "sexiness" that is core to Brioni.

I am not sure of the new logo, and I agree that the red logo shown earlier here may be a better match.

Celebrity outreach is also very important to all of these brands (I get emails from Isaia about who was spotted wearing Isaia in what show, daily), and Brioni clearly needs to really figure out the right guys to target. The Metallica thing is silly. However, I could see a bunch of guys who would make great Brioni models, and who are much more in tune with the DNA of Brioni than are Metallica. Here would be a few of my suggestions, who span at least two generations, but all of whom own an image of a mature roguishness and/or a type of "sexiness" that is appealing to men. IMO, anyone younger or younger looking than say, 40, would probably not work. I really see their DNA as more Hollywood, and less rock and roll: Sean Connery, Jack Nicholson, Bradley Cooper, George Clooney, Russell Crowe, Liam Neeson, Hugh Jackman, Michael Fassbender, Idris Elba, Ewan McGregor.

Re. "heavily tattoo'ed", that's just par for the course in the clothing business these days, and has no connotations, one way or the other. Every second designer has full sleeves and tattoos up to their neck. I used to be the only non-tatted guy in MMA, but now I'm also the only non-tatted up dude at many tradeshows.

You are right. But Tom Ford is the one who stole the throne, in a way, and with a major male celebrity ever to wear suit - 007.
post #53 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

You are right. But Tom Ford is the one who stole the throne, in a way, and with a major male celebrity ever to wear suit - 007.

The crown can change hands quickly, and Brioni is sitting on a great name and a great legacy.  As a menswear brand, it has a lot more history than Gucci, which Tom Ford revived, ever had.  And Gucci had been reduced, by the time Tom Ford took it over, to a brand sold in Duty Free shops to Asian tourists.

post #54 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martingale View Post
 
In the end suits are business tools

 

Except, as LA Guy pointed out, that's not Brioni's true heritage. And though it may have evolved into a "business tool," with the way dress codes are changing, that's becoming decreasingly true once again.

 

Say what you will about O'Shea's execution, but I think the strategy to make Brioni "sexy" again, as LA Guy put it, makes sense. It may alienate some existing customers, but if they pull it off, it probably puts them in a better market position long term.


Edited by ChetB - 7/31/16 at 3:06pm
post #55 of 134
Recent book review by His Eminence the RJMan that might be of interest to this thread:

http://nomanwalksalone.tumblr.com/post/144156914481/book-review-gaetano-savini-the-man-was-brioni
post #56 of 134
Guys.....all this is interesting and perhaps warrants more insight , But why didn't Brioni check with their customers before making any changes??? That's the $1,000,000.00 question! WHY??????

It was even mandated by a few posters above....WHY?????
post #57 of 134
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viral View Post

Guys.....all this is interesting and perhaps warrants more insight , But why didn't Brioni check with their customers before making any changes??? That's the $1,000,000.00 question! WHY??????

It was even mandated by a few posters above....WHY?????

I guess they think that there is a core clientele that wull buy Brioni, no matter what. Wring assumption if you ask me.

post #58 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post


Not necessarily bad - Tom Ford is after same aesthetics, with great success.

 

Two other distinctions to mention here:

 

1. Success doesn't necessarily equate with good taste.

 

2. Ford was trained as a designer at one of the best design schools (Parsons in NYC) anywhere.

post #59 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquafortis View Post
 

 

True not necessarily.

 

What one does with that creative inspiration is the tell all.

 

And if this is the result?:

http://www.brioni.com/us/shop-product/men/leisure-shirt_cod38573332ju.html

 

See now I am clutching at pearls. That shirt is straight from 80's Versace.

 

Disgraceful.

post #60 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

The crown can change hands quickly, and Brioni is sitting on a great name and a great legacy.  As a menswear brand, it has a lot more history than Gucci, which Tom Ford revived, ever had.  And Gucci had been reduced, by the time Tom Ford took it over, to a brand sold in Duty Free shops to Asian tourists.

 

Ironically Brioni used to dress Bond:

 

http://www.007museum.com/Brioni_James_Bond.htm

 

Now they should be dressing the guys from The Hangover.

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