Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Ivwri]



A good way to approach Yohji sizing is to think about height rather than width, if you're tall you should probably size up one so the inseam is long enough, no matter how the waist is cut. This goes for jackets as well, you get the intended balance in length and sleeve length. It's a common "mistake" to size down because the measurements look big, remember that it's often better to size up than down when it comes to Yohji.
Also note that this refers to the mainline, the Y's pants are often cut considerably slimmer in the waist (with exceptions as always).

QFT.

Just to also chime in support for what asobu said about the waists being relatively wide. You get used to bunching up the pants with drawstrings or belts.

 

[Ivwri]

Hey asobu,

Any idea what season this is from?

 

[asobu]

No, sorry! He did overalls for ss07 but those look pre-00 to me. Haven't seen those before. Do you know the size or, even better, have a picture of the tag?

 

[Ivwri]

No, unfortunately. They are here on rakuten and it is an 'M'.

Been browsing there lately as it seems they have quite a few vintage pieces on there for sale. Even saw a bomber from the SS04 skirts collection.

Finally gotten around to looking at that collection and very intrigued! Puts this current collection in perspective and even puts Rick Owens' SS2012 collection in perspective as well. Weird how I haven't seen anyone mention Yohji when discussing Rick's recent men's collection.

 

[Ivwri]

Decided to post it for easy browsing -

(all images are via vogue.co.uk)

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Bonus

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[asobu]

Ah, then it is indeed between 92-99 but I can't be more specific than that. SS93 perhaps? No idea tbh.

Yeah, the ss04 skirt collection. I get the feeling that it is still one of the more talked about YYPH collections in Japan to this day, especially now in light of ss12 since he did those wide hakama pants as well as skirts back in 2004. I have a pair of wide cropped drawstring pants in a beautiful summer wool from ss04, and there are a few other really cool pieces I'd like to get my hands on. I don't think I've seen the hakamas for sale anywhere online but there have been a few skirts and skirt-pant hybrids up on y! over the last few years. My guess is that most people who are into RO don't remember or know about YYPH ss04 and aestetically they're quite different from each other, Yohji being much less rigid and structured imo. I'm not sure how much of an impact he made in the west with ss04 tbh, it doesn't seem to come up much in any fashion discourse and pictures in decent quality seem to be impossible to find.


edit: thanks for posting the collection!

 

[Ivwri]

Yeah I would love to see this collection in motion. Drives me nuts that when it comes to fashion, the archival process is almost non-existent. Online at least. I see cameramen with filming all these collections so why is it so hard to find video to upload somewhere?? If I had the access would love to set up a website dedicated to archiving photography and video from older and future fashion collections.

You're correct about the differences between Rick and Yohji. In my mind, it really is like comparing Eastern and Western philosophy/culture. Yohji is about flow and a kind of unity with one's environment and body. Zen/Spirituality/Harmony. Rick is about imposing order and structure on the natural order of things Science/Technology/Religion. Makes sense that Rick's collection is called Nazca.

 

[KingJulien]

That skirt collection looks natural though. The Rick skirts just looked so uncomfortable. The models even looked miserable.

 

[Lane]

cant wait to try on the SS12 skirts.

as for comfortable..I doubt you've even worn one, but rick ones feel natural and just simply another layer. The yohji ones have so much fabric I'd feel less comfortable, but that's just me.

 

[Ivwri]

I actually like these looks from the Rick collection -

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

The skirts I don't like are the ones with the slits at the back.

Are you planning on picking up any of the Rick skirts? Saw someone over on SZ wearing one of them and he looked pretty cool.

I plan on getting quite a few of the pants from Yohji's SS2012 collection. This year is all about wearing wide pleated pants with long light coats and large shirts.

As for the Yohji SS04 ones, I haven't seen any of them in motion, but a lot of the stuff from the 2004 collection doesn't seem to have that much more fabric than the stuff in Rick's collection. The Rick stuff definitely seems to be a bit more constricting though. Dunno about uncomfortable, but definitely different approaches.

 

[Lane]

im going to NYC in a bit to check out SS12 stuff, hopefully they have them at the store now. I'll see if its "me." It just seems from the pictures the skirts have waaaay more volume and ****. Rick skirts usually just have a subtle flap that encircles some gym looking pants. Or a skort or apron looking stuff.


also, this is a cool thread. I wouldn't dare uwrap myself from my clothes, though. Volume scares me lol

 

[Ivwri]

Post pics!

 

[Lane]

they dont allow photos at least in atelier, dunno if its the same at RO boutiques, guessin yes.

 

[brad-t]

at atelier they got mad at me for taking a pic of myself in the mirror

not like my iphone 3gs camera would see anything other than a big blob of black in there

 

[Lane]

mmmm blobs of black