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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    Parker, I echo what Ivwri said about the styling and in my opinion it's very easy to wear stuff together that was produced 5, 10 or 15 year apart without it looking out of place. One of the things I love about Yohji's clothes is how easy (generally) they are to size and wear, there's not a lot of need to think about styling, it usually comes together very naturally when you throw it on. Grab it, put it on and be on your way. Of course there's a lot of room to experiment with proportions and textures as well, but a lot of it doesn't really need styling. He does looks/suits/set-ups but most or all of them works perfectly fine as separates. The only real "suit collections" I can recall right now are ss03 and particularly ss09, for the latter I think the suits are meant to be worn as suits to some extent but there's always room to play around as they're so deconstructed that jackets in this case work fine by themselves.


    Love this mermaid print coat from AW91


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    That coat looks so good. Details?
     
  3. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    afaik, 100% silk velvet with 7 or so different panels of patterns screen printed (randomly?) on to the fabric. Cost a fortune I believe, but shit is on 40% sale in Japan now so perhaps you can have a proxy pick one up? I'd also love to have one of those!


    edit: btw, that is a great fit. :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012
  4. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    I think it would still be more than I could spend at the moment, but it's still nice to admire from afar. Agree, that fit looks great.
     
  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Heh, thanks guys.

    asobu is correct about the details. Not sure whether the print was random actually as I only had a look at the one they had in my size. Retail in Paris was almost 3000 euros :slayer: The feel of the fabric was amazing and like all of his jackets it sits very nicely on the body, feels almost weightless.

    Was so tempted, but in the end reason prevailed as I would have blown quite a bit of my shopping budget on one item :lol:. Now I am pissed that asobu has reminded me of how nice the blazer is I just have to find out whether it is still available to pick up in Japan :fu: Highly doubt it though (I hope! SS2012 beckons!)
     
  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Updated the OP with sizing information from myself and asobu and added one more online stockist (Lazzari). If anybody else has online stockists, let me know and I can add them to the OP.
     
  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Just saw this on eBay and someone should definitely go for it -

    Pretty low starting bid on a Y's green wool jacket with removable vest in a size 3. Looks reversible too and the seller has a spotless record it seems.

    [​IMG]

    more images -

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    Link
     
  8. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    I just watched the 2000 SS collection video on page one. So basic/minimal compared to his more current collections. The oversized silhouette is there, but a little less adventurous in detailing and concept.

    I like this funny little exchange. Not treating the clothing too preciously. Just stuff a whole newspaper in your pocket!
    [​IMG]

    This reminded me of me in the 90s: :embar:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012
  9. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    It's quite minimal in its detailing but the fabrics are pretty much out of this world from the little I've seen. I personally think it's a great take on shifting the boundaries between causal and formal wear. It's been dubbed "bad asia" by some, I don't know if that's the official name for it but it's supposedly inspired by the image of street fashion by younger japanese, which I think is why it was mainly modeled by teenage asians, something that wasn't and isn't very common. SS00 is one of the great spring shows in my opinion.


    I thought about posting a few pics from the late 90's shows, but before I do that I thought it's worth to post the men's AW99 runway show which pretty much breaks any runway rules when it comes to models, setting, pacing and overall structure. My guess is this "gypsy" collection will not be as appreciated on the forum but it's one of those classic Yohji shows/collections that are still talked about today.


    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012
  10. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    oh my god, that made me smile : ^ ) yohji keeps it real.

    the long jacket, skirt over pants look is pretty neat.
     
  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Finally finished downloading the video :). Time to grab a drink and sit down.
     
  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Double-post
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012
  13. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    double lapel sz3 for sale

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012
  14. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Ivwri for all the links in the OP. I´ve discovered a lot of new great sites to buy stuff. I specially like atelier NY. Really amazing things there. Fell in love with a shirt from Dior Homme.

    If i could find something really cool from Yohji at a somewhat decent price, I´d cop without hesitation.
     
  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    No problem. I quite like Atelier's buys as well and their SAs are pretty helpful via email. I think we are looking at the same DH shirt :devil:. Plan on picking it up once things settle down over here.

    There are quite a few things that are pretty good deals from Yohji that crop up every now and again. The key is to keep browsing auction sites and sales for them. Will keep posting good finds in here as well to help out.

    Really liked that video asobu. The time just flew by! Yohji really seemed to have a lot of fun in that period of time, doing the menswear collection in FW1998 with women instead of men (really need pictures or a video of this colelction), the wedding collection strip tease for women and this one you just linked. I wonder whether he will go back to doing these or whether the new investors will keep them out due to the cost involved.

    One thing I have always liked is Yohji's sense of humour and irreverence when it comes to the whole business of fashion. It comes through so well in his clothes and in his attitude as a person. Really looking forward to the AW2012 collection next week even more now.

    EDIT - I should also add that that video just reinforced my decision to wear a longish coat over a skirt (with and without trousers underneath) even more. Great look like Parker said. Would like to see those long coat/robe/gown pieces that the guys wore under their coats in person. They looked really cool.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2012
  16. thats.mana

    thats.mana Well-Known Member

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    wrong weather has a sale going on right now, nice selection to boot.

    I'm having trouble finding shoes to go with the silhouette of the pants, looking for something low profile and suede, don't care for sneakers. A point in the right direction would be very greatly appreciated.
     
  17. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Added Wrong Weather to the list of online stockists. Somehow it slipped my mind even after I bought something from them :embar:

    With regards to shoes, I also have some trouble finding nice shoes to go with my Yohji pants. I cheat when I can by buying Yohji shoes, but I also find that Augusta and Marsell have design aesthetics and toe shapes that go well with Yohji outfits and from what I've seen from fit pics, Carpe Diems as well. Since you are looking for shoes and not boots, you could check out these Marsell on Farfetch - http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/men/marsell/cat-shoes/items.aspx and see whether anything there is to your taste. They are sold on a fair few sites and can get pretty reasonable on discount.

    These in particular are suede, but not sure whether you are looking for something in that colour.

    Boots are a bit easier as you can just get boots similar to what Yohji wears himself - Dr. Martens, Red Wings and similar chunky boots go excellent with his pants.

    Hope that helps.
     
  18. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Another someone should cop post - link

    It's a size 2 Y's faded military-influenced jacket made from waxed linen/ramie fabric with a nice doublt placket detail with a belt that runs round the inside of the jacket. Some pics below, more on the listing of course.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Caveat

    Caveat Well-Known Member

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    Any experience with the hoodie on Wrong Weather? link

    Size 2 and 4 measurements are almost identical. I'm 5-10 165, so I think I'm a 3 in most of his stuff? Which should I go for? I noticed someone said it's better to size up? Why is that? Seems like since the stuff fits loose already, that sizing down would be safer. I did pick up the wool coat and long sleeve printed tee in size 3.
     
  20. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    If the measurements are correct, it shouldn't really matter what size you go for since they seem to be pretty much identical. It looks a bit weird to me that 2 and 4 would be so close, but who knows. Btw, for Y's the intended fit is more often than not noticably slimmer and while the sizing is quite consistent, I'm not sure if sizing up is best or not. What I meant was that YYPH is meant to fit BIG, that's how they're cut and intended to fit, but what can happen is that people notice that for instance chest or shoulder measurements look big so they size down to make it fit snugger which can result in the overall balance being "off" as well as length and sleeve length being shorter than intened -- it's all subjective of course, so it's up to you how you want to size it, but there is a point with the cut being big. I'd also like to add that stuff has been getting cut slimmer in a few of the later seasons, notably AW08 and AW09 as well as some cuts from SS11.

    Also, does WW stock newer mainline Yohii? I haven't checked that site before but from what I can tell, all the YYPH stuff is from SS10. I guess that stuff has been on sale for a year and a half now? A lowpoint in his career perhaps but it deserves better than that!
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2012

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