The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[a tailor]



Just got this in the mail, going to take it to my tailor to have him alter it.  What should I ask him to do?  I'm aware the sleeves need to be shortened and there is a collar gap, but what else?  Some waist suppression maybe?

The wrinkling of the arms is terrible right now because of how it was shipped to me (jammed in a USPS envelope).  







Much appreciated.  

yes the waist could be suppressed. cant tell much from the limited picture.
the collar gap is caused by your low right shoulder. padding will raise the
shoulder, but not cure the gap.
the collar needs to be moved and shortened.
lengthen the sleeves, your fingers are still exposed.

 

[a tailor]



This is my first suit - MTM. I am not going to post my own opinion because I've noticed that people tend to agree with the owner of the suit and I do not want produce some kind of bias.

Criticism/suggestions would be much appreciated.

hello willamh
first let me introduce you to the tutorials, they are listed on the top of the first page. they will help you to understand the "why" of critique answers.
your jacket needs to be shortened at the top, see picture #3. see tutorial on balance.
also the full length needs to be longer, possibly 1". unless you favor fashion forward.
of course sleeves longer. see tutorial on sleeves.
the waist could have a bit more suppression. also check tutorial.

 

[williamh]

I read the tutorials you suggested and I'm still unsure about what you mean about "shorten[ing] at the top"

By how much do you think my sleeves need to be lengthened? 1 inch? 1.5?

This photo might be more helpful to you - it's double the resolution.

http://i45.tinypic.com/15z2iyw.jpg

Thanks

 

[plei89]

Gentlemen,

I need some advice on tailoring my suit. The sleeves needs to be shortened by an inch.

• Current distance between the last button & end of sleeve = 1.5"
• I need to remove 1" of the Sleeve - will change the distance between the last button and end of sleeve to .5"
• The sleeves are non-functional

Here's a photo:


Now is .5" way too small of a distance? Since it's non-functional, would it be the norm for the tailor to remove the button button and place it on top?

Thanks!

 

[williamh]

I spoke to one of the best tailors in my area(Seattle, USA) and he said that non-functional buttons will move with the new sleeve length.

 

[Despos]

All the buttons are removed when the sleeves are shortened. They are in the way to remake the vent. They get sewn on again at the same distance as originally done.

 

[plei89]

Thanks Gents.

 

[asdf]



yes the waist could be suppressed. cant tell much from the limited picture.
the collar gap is caused by your low right shoulder. padding will raise the
shoulder, but not cure the gap.
the collar needs to be moved and shortened.
lengthen the sleeves, your fingers are still exposed.

 

[Frankie22]

Can you guys give me a quick eyeing up on this try-on and tell me what you would do? I'm right in between a 42 and a 44 so I've got a 42R try-on right now that is slim-cut. I'm having a suit made for me but want to learn what needs correcting for my own educational experience.
I jacked the exposure way up as the lighting was horrible and wanted to see if it would help pick up the creases and lines on the black fabric. Sorry the phone pics are so horrible.

Aside from the jacket obviously being too small, here are my own amateur observations from top to bottom of jacket:
1. Shoulders need to be let out.
2. Shoulders need to be lowered due to diagonal creasing around the rear armpits.
3. Upper back or blades needs to be let out.
4. Sleevehead needs rotating due to creasing along back of arms? (Not sure about what's causing this; arm tilting backwards?)
5. Chest needs to be let out.
6. Can't tell if the lapel would need shortening or if that's just the chest needing to be let out.
7. Either the rear waist or the front (I'm thinking rear waist) will need to be let out.
8. Not sure what needs to happen with the seat and skirt (other than one or the other needs letting out)
9. Jacket will need to be lengthened (Not sure how much).
10. Sleeves obviously need lengthening.
So, what have I missed or gotten wrong?

Wtf?

 

[jgonzalez]

Excellent thread and thank you very much in advance to the experts!!!

What alterations would you make to my first bespoke jacket?

 

[Despos]



[SIZE=8pt][COLOR=464646]Excellent thread and thank you very much in advance to the experts!!![/COLOR][/SIZE]

[SIZE=8pt][COLOR=464646]What alterations would you make to my first bespoke jacket?[/COLOR][/SIZE]

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This shot shows what is off the most. The shoulder line is off and is effecting the way the jacket sits on your shoulders. From this view it looks like the jacket is falling backwards compared to your natural posture showing your head and shoulder are pitched forward. If the shoulder seam were 3/4" forward at the neck and about 1 1/4" forward at the shoulder ( where the seam hits the sleeve) you would have a very different fit and look to the jacket. The collar would sit higher on your neck at the back. You need more length on the strap and more length on the upper center back.

This view looks like you have a belly but I don't think you do.

The underarm is too small/narrow and contributes to the pulling you see at the front and back at the bottom of the armhole. The back is too wide and the underarm of the side body too narrow.

Would like a different proportion that would widen your shoulder and chest and minimize the hips. Slanted pockets don't help here.

Not sure if this helps, these are technical issues that contribute to the overall fit and look.

 

[jgonzalez]

Despos, thank you very much for all your helpful comments. I'll bear them in mind for the next bespoke suit. After reading you I feel sad for wasting my money and for being unable to afford a high professional tailor like you.

As for the jacket of the pictures, could you point any minor alteration out to improve the overall appearance?

 

[Despos]



[SIZE=10pt][COLOR=000000]
[SIZE=10pt][COLOR=000000]As for the jacket of the pictures, could you point any minor alteration out to improve the overall appearance?[/COLOR][/SIZE]

The jacket can be improved a lot if you have outlets available. It's not a lost cause. Raise the collar at the center back, let out the under arm and reduce the back part at the blades. Work the armhole and shrink the back part. These are the easiest and will help the overall appearence.
If the tailor is more ambitious and left adequate outlets he could remove the back, sleeves and collar and re balance the jacket and straighten things up. Would require a couple more basted fittings.

The first adjustments I mention would improve the jacket, the second method of adjustments would correct the jacket.

Did you have basted fittings for this suit?

 

[itsmejson]

i just recently 2 thrifted navy blazers and wanted to get some feedback on
the fit and if it would be even worth it to get it altered.
- size is 38R, i know shoulders are a bit big.
- there is no vent. would it be hard to add a vent?
- how is the length of jacket and sleeve length. I believe my shirt sleeves are too long.

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[Lord Mulberry]

i just recently thrifted a navy blazer and wanted to get some feedback on
the fit and if it would be even worth it to get it altered.
- size is 38R, i know shoulders are a bit big.
- there is no vent. would it be hard to add a vent?
- how is the length of jacket and sleeve length. I believe my shirt sleeves are too long.

It's not a bad fit, like the sleeve length. If I was going to alter it slightly, I would have it waisted, maybe from the side seam., maybe have the shoulders reduced too. If you want it vented, it all depends on how much rollback there is to play with on the seams.