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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. bnovc

    bnovc Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    62
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2012
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    I posted this before, but I put my pictures in a spoiler text, so I think no one noticed them, so trying one more time...

    I bought a pair of tan/khaki chinos from Banana Republic, and I have a suit jacket that I would like input on. I don't intend to wear them together but easier to photos together.

    Also, I believe this belt is too long. I was thinking that I would chop a couple inches off of it.


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  2. Brendon

    Brendon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    115
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    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi Thomas Paine
    I am not fond of your idea of a good fit though I understand the fashion that influences this and as you pay you have the say. As my helpful contribution I think one of the coats I think is split at the back neck I think, there is a shadow at the centre seam on one of the coats though it is not clear, but could be split, have a look, easily fixed
    Brendon
     
  3. Victor Elfo

    Victor Elfo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    537
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    Location:
    São Paulo, Brazil.
    A recent bespoke commission.

    I am pretty happy with the results, but the reverse pleats seem to open (third pic) when I am standing leading me to think the thigh is too tight and the waistband seems to not be symmetrical.
    Any comments? Thanks.




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  4. Theo Moore

    Theo Moore Member

    Messages:
    14
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2008
    This is from Indochino, and I need a remake. Was hoping I can get some advice about the fit and in particular, guesstimates of how much I should change the various measurements by.


    1. The shirt fits amazing. Bang on with the measurements, except for
      the wrist, which is much too small. I forgot to include the size of my
      watch. I'm going to request a remake for this reason, but I dunno
      whether they'll accept. Basically, it fits fine on the right wrist,
      but on the left, it probably needs about 1/4-1/2".
    2. Shoulders are dimpled. I think the shoulders are too large. What do
      you think? 1/2" each side? The padding is sticking out a bit.
    3. Jacket is too short. I think I need an extra 1.5"
      length on the jacket. That's half the distance from my wrist bone to
      my knuckles. You can see that when the jacket is buttoned up, it rides
      up; if I get the waist suppressed a tiny bit more, than it'll ride up
      even further. I think 1.5-2" inch extra length would work.
    4. Button stance would be better lower by 0.75-1".
    5. Pants are way, way too tight. This demands a remake. The waist is
      probably about 0.25-0.5" too tight, and the quads are maybe 0.75-1" each side?
      It does not look too bad from the front, but from the back, it's
      obvious. I would have trouble tying my shoelaces.

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    Last edited: Jul 25, 2012
  5. Diefenbaker

    Diefenbaker New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2012
    Recently got the results from my first MTM. Measured in person in a place that does a large amount of MTM, from a US factory, full canvass. Now that I see a full 360, there are lots of issues. I'd love some help on both fit and style, and what should/can be corrected in this one and what should be adjusted for a second order, presuming it's worth pursuing. When it first came back, the waist was let out to relieve the opening of the vent, and the buttonholes cut. Then at the next fitting, a pad was added to the right shoulder to fix the buckling at the waist on the right side. This seems to have shortened the right sleeve.

    I took pictures on two different days, to control for vagaries in stance. I have the shoulders for a 36 and a 32.5" waist, so I'm not sure how much waist suppression I can actually get with such a small drop. I was hoping for more shape up front, but it's clearly too small in the waist even after being let out once. Three specific observations on the trousers: They're pooling awkwardly in the front, but seem fine on the sides. There's an awkward bunch of fabric at the bottom of the fly, which I've never experienced before. The rightmost pleat is fully open, while the leftmost one is completely closed. I'll stop posting my observations, and leave it to the pros now. This was a lot of money for me, and I'm not sure if a remake is an option, but if necessary, I can try. Thanks so much!


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  6. --AH--

    --AH-- Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2012
    Hi Guys,

    Hope you all could help me critique this jacket of mine.

    What do you think needs altering?


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  7. --AH--

    --AH-- Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2012
    Hi Guys,

    Hope you all could help me critique this jacket of mine.

    What do you think needs altering?


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  8. --AH--

    --AH-- Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2012
    Hi Guys,

    Please help me critique this jacket of mine.

    What needs alteration here you think?

    Thanks,


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  9. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Hi Guys,

    Hope you all could help me critique this jacket of mine.

    What do you think needs altering?


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    AH next time please button your shirt collar. only use the upper button on the front.
    you have a right low shoulder some padding should help.
    sleeves need shortening. hips could be let out .
    the back could be shortened at the top. see the hump below the collar.
    coat length is about an inch too long.
     
  10. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    first, thank you for buttoning the shirt collar, wish everyone would do that. [a hint to all.]
    ok then the coat length imho is too long. an inch to an inch and a half.

    the pad on the right shoulder raised the sleeve, thats why it became short.
    the shoulder should have been cut for a right low.
    that caused the break on the right waist. but the right hip should been let out also.
    look at the first trouser pictures, front and back. it shows up easly.
    the right hip is higher and larger. that always happens with a low shoulder.
    thats also the cause of problem with the pleats.

    bunching at the bottom of the fly usually means that the rise is too short.
    unless the bunching is only on the right side, only that is.

    to better understand. go to the tutorials and read the ones that apply to each of your problems.

    you think you have problems. this tailor has a lot more. betcha he will hate me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2012
  11. Brendon

    Brendon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi AH
    agree with A Tailor. When putting a light pad in the right shoulder, you will notice from your photo's that the right sleeve ( your right) is shorter already than the left. This is generally normal, so pad shoulder first , then fit the sleeve. Your ratio will be something like ( not accurate a guess) an inch off the left and 3/8 of the right.
    Secondly only do up the middle button on the 3 button. I am not sure of tradition for this in the US, however for fit reasons alone , the 3 button S/B will never button correctly with the top two buttons done up from off the rack or Made to Measure.( If you look closely there is evidence in your photo of a slight bulge of excess length between the buttons)Always better to just do up the one. Once you have shortened the sleeves the whole coat will look better. Sounds odd but your hands will look stronger, which is very important for presence in a suit and contributes to the fourth balance which is "natural balance".
    Do in that order and you will have better success
    go well
    Brendon
     
  12. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    Hi,

    I finally picked up my first MTM suit. I was stupid enough to inadvertently stand more erect than usual when being measured, and the result is a slightly off balance, more precisely, a short back (funny, I get just the opposite with RTW). I can fix it completely it by pulling on the back of the jacket a bit, but then I obviously get a little collar gap. Tailor says he can't fix the balance, but since it's a first try, it's a casual suit and it's not off by much (I can always stand more erect when wearing it, lol) I decided to keep it.
    Future commissions will of course get this fixed, and I'm happy because everything else fits great and once we get this sorted out, future suits will look really good.

    Question is, is a short back really not fixable? I want to trust my tailor, but I need some more opinions. Since pulling on the jacket kinda solves it, but creates a collar gap, would the collar gap be fixable instead?

    The main problem is that the back of the skirt is flaring out, but the vents aren't opening, so maybe there are alternative solutions like shaping the back seam a bit?

    I'm sorry I'm not providing pictures but my camera is wrecked, and my crappy cell phone won't help much... just want to know if a short back / collar gap is fixable... thanks.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2012
  13. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    ^ If there is no plaid or horizontal pattern in the cloth to match at the side seams your tailor can open the side seams and raise the back. he can also raise the collar if needed. Another remedy is to shorten the fronts at the top of the shoulder but that is trickier because it raises the gorge and armhole and you may have to shorten the collar. Reducing on the side seams (maybe the backpart only) should help keep the jacket from flaring out on the back part.

    It's partly up to the tailor to get you to relax and stand as natural as possible at fittings.
     
  14. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    No plaid, it's a vertical hairline stripe that looks solid light blue from a distance. Since the tailor is going on vacation on Aug. 1 till Sept. 1, I guess it's too late to take it back and see if he can have a second look (as I need this suit for a couple casual weddings this month) but as soon as he's back I'll do it. I'll just stand erect at the weddings [​IMG]

    Thanks a lot for your feedback!
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2012
  15. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    The fronts will hang and look better too if he adjusts the back. A win-win

    Raising the back is pretty straight forward. The only problem may be if he has to raise the back so much that it creates too much cloth at the end over your shoulder point and then he has to remake the shoulder and slope the back part a bit to keep the blade clean.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2012
  16. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    Guess so... at the front I'm kinda getting this :

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    but less exaggerated and the quarters don't open, they look right; I guess because the balance seems to be off by just half to 3/4 of an inch...

    This of course if I don't pull the jacket down from the back. In fact when I put it on I do it so there's no collar gap, and that's when the balance goes off and the shoulders feel a bit awkward; but when I pull it down it seems to sit better on my shoulders and both the back and fronts looks fine, so maybe the real problem is collar gap and not balance... if one thing can be fixed without messing the other, that's great.
    For a first MTM try I guess I'm being a nitpicker, but yeah it would be a win if I can get it perfect [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2012
  17. Diefenbaker

    Diefenbaker New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2012
    Thanks a tailor. I've been following your and Mr. Despos' posts for several years and am truly impressed by the amount of time you two (and the other tailors on the board) spend helping anonymous strangers. The bunching at the fly is in fact only on the right side. My "equipment" feels like it's sitting down the left trouser leg...I've never experienced this before. The legs also seems too heavily pegged? Do you have any suggestions for the pulling at the vents of the jacket? Also the sleeves seem a tad narrow, and I think might need to be rehung as well?

    Is it worth having them try to fix this garment, or should I try to get a remake? Looking at the pictures, there's very little flattering about this at all. I'm in for a grand including tax and options (functional buttonholes, Daks waist). Made by H. Freeman through a local shop.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 28, 2012
  18. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    You picked the correct picture showing how the fronts open. I commend you. This is what happens to the fronts with a short back and you will see a difference when the back is shifted up. The low collar position is caused by a balance issue. Raising the collar won't correct or compensate for the short back.
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    atailor covered this one well, I want to comment on the trouser as you don't have an easy to fit posture for trousers. Reverse pleats would work better for your build and body type. They need to take note of your right hip being higher and larger but some MTM programs don't go that far.
    I would taper and shape the thigh/knee area and make the bottoms 1" wider, change to reverse pleats. On these trousers the fit is tight on your abdomen, 2" below the waistband seam but this is due to the way the waistband has been sewn onto the trouser. Removing the waistband and sewing it on properly, reshaping the leg would transform these.
     
  20. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    if you order a shirt again.
    let them know about your right low shoulder . to measure see the tutorials.
    the hips should be a little larger as well as the waist.
    on this shirt just move the buttons on the cuff.

    the pictures dont show dimples. and the length is quite short, an inch and
    a half looks about right.
    the entire front of the jacket is far too tight, and yet the upper back
    is far too loose especially at the blades.
    the right shoulder is low, see the tutorials.

    the trouser seat should be at least 2 inches larger. did you give them a thigh measure?
    make the bottom circumference one inch larger
    between the larger bottom and thigh you may get enough room for your calves.

    the most common mistake is to measure too tight hoping to get a slim fit?
    remember you can all ways make it smaller, seldom make it larger.
    why didnt you button your shirt collar?
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012

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