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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 596

post #8926 of 12422
Quote:
Originally Posted by space grey View Post

Yeah I think this Leather Master stuff is mostly water with a touch of a mild soap like baby shampoo.  When using it, is it alright to use a damp cloth even if it means a little water soaks into the leather (to the point where it darkens temporarily)?  I assume doing this every once in awhile isn't going to screw up the leather as long as I use cream / renovator as appropriate.

yes and then let them dry naturally, no heat.
post #8927 of 12422
Quote:
Originally Posted by JezeC View Post

So my cobbler decided to paint over the sides of my leather soles with a brown finish when they were initially black. I tried using a sole edge dressing to re-paint it black, but it the black ink doesn't stay on the shoe for long with brown paint resurfacing after a few wears.

Is there any way to strip out the thick layer of brown paint, so I can actually paint it black with the sole edge dressing again?

This is what I'm using:

http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Heel-Edge-black-2-5oz/dp/B000U9YODA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397219945&sr=8-1&keywords=kiwi+sole+polish

I work as a cobbler and i can honestly say that if you take them back and ask for black you won't insult anyone and he should be able to do it while you wait.

post #8928 of 12422
A little maintenance on a Saturday morning on 4,5 years old C&J Lowndes...
Before:


After:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #8929 of 12422
Weird, looks like PB must be doing calf raises during his lunch hour everyday. Both those pairs have noticeable issues in the crease.

Is it to late to refund those boots?
post #8930 of 12422
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwhinson View Post
 

I purchased a pair of Rider boots second hand and there is some creasing on these boots however with most of my shell I don't get creasing per se; rather as they break in and stretch a bit I get the typical smooth "rolls" typical of shell.  In this case there is some surface texture that no matter how vigorously brush, I can't seem to get rid of.  I'm reluctant to strip them with renomat (I have some on hand but I've never used it on Cordovan).  Any ideas how to get rid of this surface texture which otherwise mars a very nice pair of boots?


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Im gonna get hell for this but what the heck :)

 

A deerbone will fix that, my cordovan have the same issue.

Here's a pic after brushing. I have had a hard brush and done it for a few minutes.

 

here's a pic after about 1-2 minutes of a rubbing the deer bone and 1 minute of brushing

post #8931 of 12422
Quote:
Originally Posted by niklasnordin View Post
 

Im gonna get hell for this but what the heck :)

 

A deerbone will fix that, my cordovan have the same issue.

Thanks for the tip. I used a bit of black cordovan creme on them and the back of a spoon. Problem solved. 

post #8932 of 12422

Has anyone used Collonil 1909 Leather Cream on new shoes, straight out of the box, or Saphir Medaille D'or Creme de Soins? From a search of the internet, a general opinion seems to be that you should put something on new shoes as they may well have dried out in storage. I have both of these products, so I have to declare a vested interested! 

post #8933 of 12422
Is there a good method for cleaning Margiela trainers (the suede/lamb style)? Pic attached.

I guess I'm not so concerned about the blue and gray ones as they're a few years old but the rust colored ones I'm quite fond of and are relatively new. The suede has plenty of dark stains on the back (from driving, I'm assuming) and the leather has dulled pretty significantly. I just used some basic leather polish on them but I think I may need something more specific to colored leather. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #8934 of 12422

Is it still considered good practice to bend a new pair of shoes by pushing the heel towards the toe?

post #8935 of 12422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post

Is it still considered good practice to bend a new pair of shoes by pushing the heel towards the toe?

If you mean bending the forepart of the shoe, when was it ever? I don't know if it is destructive, especially, but IMO, the first time the shoe is flexed like that, the foot ought to be in it.
post #8936 of 12422

Thanks, DWF. I did, though, see a fairly archaic print of a machine that would do this - perhaps from the 30's or 40's, either on this site or on the leather one. There was, as I remember, a discussion about bending new shoes in this way as a means of breaking them in. I have been through the whole of the leather site and quiet a bit of this one and - typically - I can't find the debate. I agree, though, that it does sound counter- intuitive.

 

I'm sorry to keep posting these 'what do you do to new shoes' but (as might be imagined) I am in the process of getting a new pair and want to get the preparation of them right!

 

Thanks, again.

post #8937 of 12422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post

Thanks, DWF. I did, though, see a fairly archaic print of a machine that would do this - perhaps from the 30's or 40's, either on this site or on the leather one. There was, as I remember, a discussion about bending new shoes in this way as a means of breaking them in. I have been through the whole of the leather site and quiet a bit of this one and - typically - I can't find the debate. I agree, though, that it does sound counter- intuitive.

I'm sorry to keep posting these 'what do you do to new shoes' but (as might be imagined) I am in the process of getting a new pair and want to get the preparation of them right!

Thanks, again.

Perhaps with RTW, it doesn't matter too much. But more than one bespoke maker (myself included) will carefully position two pencils across the ball of the foot and direct the customer to deeply flex forward. This controls the initial break-in of the leather and "sets" the creases. After that first time (maybe repeated once or twice) additional bending, with or without the foot in the shoe, will certainly loosen up the fibers of the outsole and insole and make the shoe...perhaps...walk a little easier.
post #8938 of 12422

Thanks, as always, DWF. These aren't going to be bespoke shoes, so I would image that the first thing I should do is flex forward to set the creases. 

post #8939 of 12422

Small review of the Saphir Greasy Leather Cream product, given to me by Kirby's Hangar Project for review.

 

I used the cream on few different pairs of shoes: two veg tanned cowhide boots, a chromexcel handsewn blucher, and a chromexcel chukka. The cream is a little sticky/tacky when applied, and the cxl pairs more readily absorbed it when applied in thin amounts with a horsehair dauber. All but the chromexcel chukka had previously been treated with other products (Obenauf HDLP, Saphir Renovateur, and Saphir RenoMat) in varying combinations. The chromexcel chukka absorbed the cream the best and was most restored to its original hand and look compared to the other boots/shoes. There was a dry spot developing on the left rear of the chromexcel chukka, and the cream restored it nicely. I don't think the other shoes/boots were any worse for wear after using the cream, and likely were better off with the conditioning, but the chomexcel chukka seemed to benefit the most. Unfortunately I cannot directly a/b compare this to other creams, but perhaps in the future.

 

Some pictures of the dry heel in question before/after:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Before^. Note that the wrinkling is because the chukka is unlined with no heel counter. These are Eastland Made in Maine Jeffersons, I believe made by Rancourt. Very happy with them, by the way.

After^

post #8940 of 12422
Does anyone have any suggestions for cleaning mixed material shoes? I have some leather-suede combo shoes and don't want to stain the suede when I polish the leather. Plastic wrap?
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