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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 66

post #976 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

I think I will as you're not the first person to ask!
That would be great! I sure will be a customer if you can do that and balance it with slightly wider pocket flaps.
post #977 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

That would be great! I sure will be a customer if you can do that and balance it with slightly wider pocket flaps.

Right on. Just checked out your tumblr - lots of great inspiration!
post #978 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Right on. Just checked out your tumblr - lots of great inspiration!
Thanks!
post #979 of 1303
This is a response to people wanting a cheap new suit from the likes of CT, BB, RLBL, M&S, J Crew, et al.

Don't bother with that crap, for about the sale price there are much better value for money propositions out there:

1) Find high-end widely distributed lines when they regularly surface at very deep discount online or offline (yoox, ebay, malford, ehaberdasher, costume limite, etc). E.g. zegna, canali, zileri, corneliani, caruso, etc. You'll be getting top notch NWT fully canvassed suits for the same price or just slightly more than some of the crap RTW fused suits mentionned. Worried about buying online without trying? Don't be. Return policies are awesome, you can often send back for full refund no questions asked. Also, you can walk into the luxury suit boutiques and try on models, and then hunt online for the same model from the same brand.

2) no one is mentionning on this thread the ultimate brand for cheap yet very convincing rtw: Boggi. That is the best suit & jacket brand in the inexpensive category, imho. Also great for everything else btw. (When Lander Urquijo ramps up distribution, if they ever do, they could also become a serious contender in that category.)
post #980 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

This is a response to people wanting a cheap new suit from the likes of CT, BB, RLBL, M&S, J Crew, et al.

Don't bother with that crap, for about the sale price there are much better value for money propositions out there:

1) Find high-end widely distributed lines when they regularly surface at very deep discount online or offline (yoox, ebay, malford, ehaberdasher, costume limite, etc). E.g. zegna, canali, zileri, corneliani, caruso, etc. You'll be getting top notch NWT fully canvassed suits for the same price or just slightly more than some of the crap RTW fused suits mentionned. Worried about buying online without trying? Don't be. Return policies are awesome, you can often send back for full refund no questions asked. Also, you can walk into the luxury suit boutiques and try on models, and then hunt online for the same model from the same brand.

2) no one is mentionning on this thread the ultimate brand for cheap yet very convincing rtw: Boggi. That is the best suit & jacket brand in the inexpensive category, imho. Also great for everything else btw. (When Lander Urquijo ramps up distribution, if they ever do, they could also become a serious contender in that category.)

The trouble with #1 is it's not always easy to find Zegna, Canali et tal in current styles and staple fabrics that also happen to be the size one is looking for.

I'd have to agree with you on #2 - Boggi has really great style, and while they seem to have various qualities, I did notice that they're better made garments appear to be made by Isaia and are fully canvassed. I think they were somewhere in the realm of £1,000 (not exactly a huge bargain, but still less than an Isaia branded suit). Then again they had others that were not nearly the same quality, but also priced a good 40% - 50% less IIRC. I might have to make a trip out to see them - it's been a while.
post #981 of 1303

I would have to second what dirnelli said about Boggi.  They have a variety of places that make their sport coats and suits (including Isaia) and have nice sales from time to time.  Their are expanding internationally and should be a more visible brand in the next few years.  It's hard to put them into a category because like Brooks Brothers there is a large range of quality that is sometimes reflected in their pricing.  According to this list they could sometimes be in "good" and sometimes in "satisfactory".

Benjamin suits are an excellent value and made well.  When I took a bunch of suits to my tailor for alterations (some old, some new) he picked out the Benjamin and even asked to try it on.  I had a Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece and a Chester Barrie mixed in, so that says something about the product they produce.  (a slightly wider lapel would be rad though)  I would put it in the "good" category even though the price point is low and I believe someone else already mentioned earlier that it sits somewhere between "good" and "satisfactory".  Perhaps some feel threatened that a person could buy a suit of similar quality at a lower price, but I'm glad for it.  A company should not be downgraded for selling a quality product at a lower than expected price point.

 

post #982 of 1303

I would second that. I think eHab's collections should be part of the list since so many SF'ers have approved of them. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Any chance I can humbly request/submit our Benjamin suits to be included on the list here or is this just for big-brand department/luxury store labels? Although I have to admit the list seems fairly critical with extremely high standards - listing the likes of Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Pal Zileri as only "Good"... SF really is a tough crowd!

 

Interesting points - Maybe the hierarchy should also point out in each category which ones can be FOUND if searched for a Relative Bargain. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

This is a response to people wanting a cheap new suit from the likes of CT, BB, RLBL, M&S, J Crew, et al.

Don't bother with that crap, for about the sale price there are much better value for money propositions out there:

1) Find high-end widely distributed lines when they regularly surface at very deep discount online or offline (yoox, ebay, malford, ehaberdasher, costume limite, etc). E.g. zegna, canali, zileri, corneliani, caruso, etc. You'll be getting top notch NWT fully canvassed suits for the same price or just slightly more than some of the crap RTW fused suits mentionned. Worried about buying online without trying? Don't be. Return policies are awesome, you can often send back for full refund no questions asked. Also, you can walk into the luxury suit boutiques and try on models, and then hunt online for the same model from the same brand.

2) no one is mentionning on this thread the ultimate brand for cheap yet very convincing rtw: Boggi. That is the best suit & jacket brand in the inexpensive category, imho. Also great for everything else btw. (When Lander Urquijo ramps up distribution, if they ever do, they could also become a serious contender in that category.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by simple80t View Post
 

I would have to second what dirnelli said about Boggi.  They have a variety of places that make their sport coats and suits (including Isaia) and have nice sales from time to time.  Their are expanding internationally and should be a more visible brand in the next few years.  It's hard to put them into a category because like Brooks Brothers there is a large range of quality that is sometimes reflected in their pricing.  According to this list they could sometimes be in "good" and sometimes in "satisfactory".

Benjamin suits are an excellent value and made well.  When I took a bunch of suits to my tailor for alterations (some old, some new) he picked out the Benjamin and even asked to try it on.  I had a Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece and a Chester Barrie mixed in, so that says something about the product they produce.  (a slightly wider lapel would be rad though)  I would put it in the "good" category even though the price point is low and I believe someone else already mentioned earlier that it sits somewhere between "good" and "satisfactory".  Perhaps some feel threatened that a person could buy a suit of similar quality at a lower price, but I'm glad for it.  A company should not be downgraded for selling a quality product at a lower than expected price point.

At what price point could one get a Boggi (assuming a sale/ someone looked around) - where / how? 

post #983 of 1303

I wonder if there could be a second list by price range.  I almost think that'd be more helpful for some folks as us that are new to the suit world really have no idea what a reasonable price is for most of the things on the list.

post #984 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by simple80t View Post

 Perhaps some feel threatened that a person could buy a suit of similar quality at a lower price, but I'm glad for it.  A company should not be downgraded for selling a quality product at a lower than expected price point.


 

Thanks for weighing in. I can fix that quite easily and price the suits at $900 if that helps... devil.gif
post #985 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post


Thanks for weighing in. I can fix that quite easily and price the suits at $900 if that helps... devil.gif

 

 

Can you wait until I pull the trigger on one first?  

post #986 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

This is a response to people wanting a cheap new suit from the likes of CT, BB, RLBL, M&S, J Crew, et al.

Don't bother with that crap, for about the sale price there are much better value for money propositions out there:

1) Find high-end widely distributed lines when they regularly surface at very deep discount online or offline (yoox, ebay, malford, ehaberdasher, costume limite, etc). E.g. zegna, canali, zileri, corneliani, caruso, etc. You'll be getting top notch NWT fully canvassed suits for the same price or just slightly more than some of the crap RTW fused suits mentionned. Worried about buying online without trying? Don't be. Return policies are awesome, you can often send back for full refund no questions asked. Also, you can walk into the luxury suit boutiques and try on models, and then hunt online for the same model from the same brand.

2) no one is mentionning on this thread the ultimate brand for cheap yet very convincing rtw: Boggi. That is the best suit & jacket brand in the inexpensive category, imho. Also great for everything else btw. (When Lander Urquijo ramps up distribution, if they ever do, they could also become a serious contender in that category.)

 

I'm going to disagree with you on this one, and I've used your strategy for the past 3 years now. 

 

1. Staple high-quality suits in normal sizes rarely (if ever) go on very steep sales. If they do, they're only available for a very short time, and in cities with large stores. 

 

2. Shopping suits online is a hit-and-miss game. You need to know your measurements perfectly, you need to have someone to do alterations. No two suits will fit identically...I've tried and bought identical coats and suits, from the same season and collection (after trying on in the store), only to find out that they fit differently. 

 

I now have a couple of perfectly fitting suits, that I picked up on the web...but then there's also those 20 suits that didn't fit, or turn out as I wanted. I pretty much threw away money on things like shipping, fees, taxes, customs, alterations, etc. It all adds up, trust me on this one. 

 

In fact, I'd rather spend 1-2 hours on finding a good fitting, but OK quality suit locally, than spending 20 hours scrolling Ebay/yoox/B&S/etc. only to churn through 5-10 suits, wasting cash and time on shipping and whatnot to finally end up with a high-quality and good fitting suit. 

 

In fact, If I added up all the cash I've wasted on shopping online suits and coats, I could probably bought a bespoke suit...It's a crap-shoot. 

 

So all in all: Beginners should just go to a store and find the best fitting suit they can find that fits their budget, you'll probably be better off in the end. 

post #987 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamspace View Post
 

 

I'm going to disagree with you on this one, and I've used your strategy for the past 3 years now. 

 

1. Staple high-quality suits in normal sizes rarely (if ever) go on very steep sales. If they do, they're only available for a very short time, and in cities with large stores. 

 

2. Shopping suits online is a hit-and-miss game. You need to know your measurements perfectly, you need to have someone to do alterations. No two suits will fit identically...I've tried and bought identical coats and suits, from the same season and collection (after trying on in the store), only to find out that they fit differently. 

 

I now have a couple of perfectly fitting suits, that I picked up on the web...but then there's also those 20 suits that didn't fit, or turn out as I wanted. I pretty much threw away money on things like shipping, fees, taxes, customs, alterations, etc. It all adds up, trust me on this one. 

 

In fact, I'd rather spend 1-2 hours on finding a good fitting, but OK quality suit locally, than spending 20 hours scrolling Ebay/yoox/B&S/etc. only to churn through 5-10 suits, wasting cash and time on shipping and whatnot to finally end up with a high-quality and good fitting suit. 

 

In fact, If I added up all the cash I've wasted on shopping online suits and coats, I could probably bought a bespoke suit...It's a crap-shoot. 

 

So all in all: Beginners should just go to a store and find the best fitting suit they can find that fits their budget, you'll probably be better off in the end. 

 

+1000

 

that has exactly been my experience (and i've always been envious of people that got killer deals). 

 

suits of my size (38S) are hard to find at sale prices, and even when they're on sale, they are only available for a few hours at most.  the fits vary quite a bit even within the same brand name. for example, i've found black fleece and RLBL fit me almost right off the rack but isaia/canali really aren't my type.  

 

i imagine one must 1. have tried on many suits, 2. know their body well, 3. know an excellent (and cost-effective) tailor, to find bargains from online sources.  and this is definitely not for the beginners including myself. 

 

finally, most of us have full-time jobs - i often find the time i spend trying to score a deal online has become not cost-effective when it comes down to the dollars per time. 

 

for beginner like myself, at this point, i'm perfectly happy getting my black fleece at $500-600.  i'll continue to search for a RLBL bargain and perhaps one day, when i gather enough courage, order a benjamin line from eHaberdasher. 

post #988 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

This is a response to people wanting a cheap new suit from the likes of CT, BB, RLBL, M&S, J Crew, et al.

Don't bother with that crap, for about the sale price there are much better value for money propositions out there:
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
1) Find high-end widely distributed lines when they regularly surface at very deep discount online or offline (yoox, ebay, malford, ehaberdasher, costume limite, etc). E.g. zegna, canali, zileri, corneliani, caruso, etc. You'll be getting top notch NWT fully canvassed suits for the same price or just slightly more than some of the crap RTW fused suits mentionned. Worried about buying online without trying? Don't be. Return policies are awesome, you can often send back for full refund no questions asked. Also, you can walk into the luxury suit boutiques and try on models, and then hunt online for the same model from the same brand.

2) no one is mentionning on this thread the ultimate brand for cheap yet very convincing rtw: Boggi. That is the best suit & jacket brand in the inexpensive category, imho. Also great for everything else btw. (When Lander Urquijo ramps up distribution, if they ever do, they could also become a serious contender in that category.)

 

 

For the newer members out there, I would be careful with that brands/lines we throw under blanket statements.  In this case, I disagree with RLBL being added to this statement.  In no way is it a "crap RTW fused" suit.  Black Label suits are made by Caruso (a maker pointed out as "high-end"), are in fact fully canvassed, have hand detailing and use Holland and Sherry cloth.  If the slim fit works for you body type, RLBL can be one heck of a deal. 

post #989 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamspace View Post

I'm going to disagree with you on this one, and I've used your strategy for the past 3 years now. 

1. Staple high-quality suits in normal sizes rarely (if ever) go on very steep sales. If they do, they're only available for a very short time, and in cities with large stores. 

2. Shopping suits online is a hit-and-miss game. You need to know your measurements perfectly, you need to have someone to do alterations. No two suits will fit identically...I've tried and bought identical coats and suits, from the same season and collection (after trying on in the store), only to find out that they fit differently. 

I now have a couple of perfectly fitting suits, that I picked up on the web...but then there's also those 20 suits that didn't fit, or turn out as I wanted. I pretty much threw away money on things like shipping, fees, taxes, customs, alterations, etc. It all adds up, trust me on this one. 

In fact, I'd rather spend 1-2 hours on finding a good fitting, but OK quality suit locally, than spending 20 hours scrolling Ebay/yoox/B&S/etc. only to churn through 5-10 suits, wasting cash and time on shipping and whatnot to finally end up with a high-quality and good fitting suit. 

In fact, If I added up all the cash I've wasted on shopping online suits and coats, I could probably bought a bespoke suit...It's a crap-shoot. 

So all in all: Beginners should just go to a store and find the best fitting suit they can find that fits their budget, you'll probably be better off in the end. 

Same here. If I do find a 44 in a staple it is not marked down as much as I would like. I usually still pay around $1,000 for it so still better than full retail but not much of a bargain. My last bargain was crap. I only paid $350 for it but I just threw away $350.
post #990 of 1303
I purchased my first D'Avenza suit yesterday - I can certainly understand the high ranking it has received on this list.
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