The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

JTA · Oct 28, 2011

musicguy said:
Cleaning up the list.
Anyone have clarification on:
J. Press - There are different lines. I have a feeling it should be higher than Mediocre
D'Avenza - From tuttofattoamano blog, I've read that D'Avenza isn't what it used to be. I think this list should be for suits that are currently made. What is the quality of current D'Avenza?
Sartoria Partenopea - I know nothing about this brand.
We also should include Cucinelli somewhere. They make RTW suits and sport coats. I think Very Good might be the place?
Here is a draft:

Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza (old brand, includes RTW Gieves & Hawkes)
- Kiton
- Oxxford
- St Andrew (includes made for RLPL)
- Sartoria Castangia
- Tom Ford (made by Zegna)
Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Belvest
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Luigi Borrelli
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Isaia
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale
- Raffaelle Caruso (includes Sartoria Parma / some RLPL / RLBL / old RL Signature)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Thom Browne
- Zegna Couture (higher quality than mainline Zegna)
- Ermenegildo Zegna
Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
- Hugo Boss Selection
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Canali
- K by Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Giorgio Armani Black Label
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline
- Samuelsohn
Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
- Benjamin Sartorial
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Etro / Boglioli
- Hackett
- H. Freemann
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvas)
- hickey
- Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
- Z-Zegna
Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
- Hugo Boss
- J.Crew
- J. Press

Owned D'Avenza in the past and quality is super though not as high as Attolini. Think there's a need to distinguish the handwork and construction.
Just my view, excellent construction with minimum handworks is less in my book than very good or decent construction with tons of handworks.
The list is off also, how on earth Boglioli is in the same category as Paul Smith London or Z Zegna while Hugo Boss Selection is placed in a higher bracket, that's a blasphemy. Also Zegna Couture line should be in the excellent category.

antirabbit · Oct 28, 2011

The list is looking better.
I would add in the Good catagory-Ciffonelli RTW, which actually may be in the very good catagory just on the quality of their pants.
Please add Enrico Isaia to the top level?

Boglioli has several different levels-
They have COAT, which is not as good as their own label, but still very nice from a fabric, cut, and style perspective.
They also make for a bunch of YOOX brand suits, I have purchased a few and will say they are no better or worse than the COAT line.

Luciano Barbera CS needs to be in the top tier, as their OEM makers are all in the top tier (Attolini, Partenopea, and St. Andrews)

Cucinelli is exceptional only in their fabrics and style not in construction (I find it average). I would put them in the good catagory, but others may see them higher on the list.

SirGrotius · Oct 28, 2011

Three suits I don't see on the latest list (although one of them was on the former) are RLBL, Dior, and Burberry. I like ultra slim cuts on my suits, I imagine if I were to rank these three in terms of quality it'd go Dior, RLBL and Burberry...from best to least.

Thoughts?

Should I be looking at any other brands? I'm more into the cut than quality if I had to choose (but half canvass at a minimum). I'm also uncomfortable spending over 2K on a suit.

antirabbit · Oct 28, 2011

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
RLBL is Corneliani, Burberry is a number of makers, and Dior is in a different class as it is a pure fashion label, not something you would see alot of the business world wear, thus, the cut is drastically different than RLBL or Burberry.

If you are all about super slim, try a Boglioli suit, they can be ultra slim, they are also less expensive on Yoox than say a Dior.
Borrelli is also very very slim, or rather lean.
Neither are as fashion forward as Dior, as Dior will tend to have trendy elements that seperate it from everything else on the list.

NORE · Oct 28, 2011

musicguy said:
Here's my update. Moved Thom Browne down from Excellent to Very Good. I agree we don't need a new thread. Add your edits.
Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Oxxford
- RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
- St Andrew
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
- Belvest
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Jil Sander tailor made
- Lanvin
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
- (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Thom Browne
- Zegna Couture (includes Tom Ford)
Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Canali
- K by Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Etro / Boglioli
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Giorgio Armani (black label)
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline
- Samuelsohn
Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
- Benjamin Sartorial
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Hackett
- H. Freemann
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvas)
- hickey
- J Crew
- Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
- Z-Zegna
Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
- H&M
- Hugo Boss
- J. Press
- Joseph Abboud
- Marco Valentino (half canvas)

Where is Polo on this list? I have owned suits from each tier (except Mediocre) and can definitely say that I have rotated everything else out in favor of a closet full of Polo and RL Signature line suits and coats. For style, fabric, cut & fit. It should be noted that I could care less about handwork.

SirGrotius · Oct 28, 2011

antirabbit said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
RLBL is Corneliani, Burberry is a number of makers, and Dior is in a different class as it is a pure fashion label, not something you would see alot of the business world wear, thus, the cut is drastically different than RLBL or Burberry.
If you are all about super slim, try a Boglioli suit, they can be ultra slim, they are also less expensive on Yoox than say a Dior.
Borrelli is also very very slim, or rather lean.
Neither are as fashion forward as Dior, as Dior will tend to have trendy elements that seperate it from everything else on the list.

Perfect. Thanks so much.

Thanks SF (a new me) · Oct 28, 2011

are there any additional Canali line besides what's already mentioned here (i.e Milano, Canali, K by Canali) ? I guess need to pay more attention to the labels as I might have an opportunity to score great deal on selected sport coats this weekend. Thanks

antirabbit · Oct 28, 2011

Canali Proposta (something like that, I have one in the closet, but Im too lazy to go look). Its a lower level than the mainline.

musicguy · Oct 28, 2011

Okay, I give up! Too much info here. Why not just adjust my list with your additions/subtractions?

in stitches · Oct 29, 2011

musicguy said:
Okay, I give up! Too much info here. Why not just adjust my list with your additions/subtractions?

you mean not bicker, be tangential and argue just for the sake of it, but rather follow the original thread concept. thats SF heresy. lol.

KObalto · Oct 29, 2011

NORE said:
Where is Polo on this list? I have owned suits from each tier (except Mediocre) and can definitely say that I have rotated everything else out in favor of a closet full of Polo and RL Signature line suits and coats. For style, fabric, cut & fit. It should be noted that I could care less about handwork.

RLP made in Italy is Corneliani half-canvassed. I like them, too. Probably in the Good category,

Saturdays · Oct 29, 2011

NORE said:
Where is Polo on this list? I have owned suits from each tier (except Mediocre) and can definitely say that I have rotated everything else out in favor of a closet full of Polo and RL Signature line suits and coats. For style, fabric, cut & fit. It should be noted that I could care less about handwork.

KObalto said:
RLP made in Italy is Corneliani half-canvassed. I like them, too. Probably in the Good category,

Yup, however there are some RLP that is not Corneliani - I think those would probably land a bit lower. RL Rugby is the same way - post 2011 Made in Italy is Caruso made should be [***]-[****], however pre 2011 most likely fit [**]-[***].

Where does Paul Stuart land in this? They have fantastic quality suits. I would think near RLBL..

Also Ozwald Boateng - been fascinated recently with his work in Saville Row - I would think his suits are *****

Superfluous · Oct 29, 2011

antirabbit said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
RLBL is Corneliani, Burberry is a number of makers, and Dior is in a different class as it is a pure fashion label, not something you would see alot of the business world wear, thus, the cut is drastically different than RLBL or Burberry.
If you are all about super slim, try a Boglioli suit, they can be ultra slim, they are also less expensive on Yoox than say a Dior.
Borrelli is also very very slim, or rather lean.
Neither are as fashion forward as Dior, as Dior will tend to have trendy elements that seperate it from everything else on the list.

RLBL is Caruso.

Saturdays · Oct 30, 2011

Tony Romo said:
RLBL is Caruso.

Correct, old RLBL stuff was Corneliani though from what I understand..in any case it doesn't matter anymore since this list is based on current wares

dieselman89 · Dec 25, 2011

Are Brooks Brothers 1818 suits worth $600?

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