The Official Temple of Jawnz Thread

[impolyt_one]

also, as we've begun to buy fabrics and leathers by the roll, I've been able to glean more information on their origins as they are still tagged in the packaging.

The thin lambskin I used on the TOJ0/1 was Italian, the thick stuff I use is from New Zealand. Both are nice, but for me it's the NZ lambskin that really does it for me, it is not normal to see this kind of stuff outside of like RLPL, etc. The calf that goes into the calfskin DR jackets, I don't know where it comes from, but considering the trade laws of my country, it's probably from Australia, NZ, or America. It's seriously the cleanest leather I've ever seen, it comes in sides that are the size of tablecoths without any grain corrections or serious defects. It's about 150% more expensive than run of the mill calf. aeglus just got his calf DR tonight and I think he's gonna have one hell of a time breaking it in, but I told him to really beat the **** out of it. If you've ever tried to really wear in a pair of dry denims, you know what it's like to intentionally go hard on your clothes wanting to see some results; wearing this calf is similar, except ten times more intense, as far as seeing results and wear goes.

the lining materials; the cupro on the leathers (which is the only thing we're running for now) is Japanese and then dyed domestically. I just bought an APC coat last night and it's got the same exact stuff in it actually.

Other stuff, it's a mix here and there. YKK's are Japanese, snaps and stuff are made locally, we get stuff customized locally, etc. The textiles industry is a huge incestuous intertwining monster.


As far as manufacture goes, I think some guy in that leather jacket thread that got locked was somehow misinformed about the state of Korea's labor and economic health; there's been a ban on sweatshop labor here for quite some time, about 20 years or more, and the real fact of the matter is, labor isn't cheap (by manufaturing standards) here anymore. I probably pay my 2 leather jacket people more per hour than a lot of guys on this board make per hour at their own jobs, so yeah. It's not worth it to steez if it means having little kids crouched over sewing machines late at night, getting caned.

Anyhow, back to the happier programming, but I think it's nice to know where your stuff comes from.

 

[brad-t]

edit: ^^^ awesome post

So I read in another thread that your winter coats won't really be built for serious winter. It gets down to -20 celsius here, so should I just look elsewhere instead of waiting? LOL

 

[impolyt_one]

depends; it gets that cold here too (plus we have pretty insane Siberian winds that go pretty hard at us all winter, it's cold as **** here already), and I like to stay warm so I have decided that the wool stuff will get medium-thickness button-out quilt liners (cupro-faced poly fill insulation), but layering is essential too, in my book. I will make them warm enough to wear with at least an undershirt and a buttonup to survive an average winter day, but adding sweaters and stuff will always help, of course...

 

[brad-t]

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

depends; it gets that cold here too (plus we have pretty insane Siberian winds that go pretty hard at us all winter, it's cold as **** here already), and I like to stay warm so I have decided that the wool stuff will get medium-thickness button-out quilt liners (cupro-faced poly fill insulation), but layering is essential too, in my book. I will make them warm enough to wear with at least an undershirt and a buttonup to survive an average winter day, but adding sweaters and stuff will always help, of course...

sounds like i will wait then

any eta?

 

[impolyt_one]

I am here at home tomorrow on everybody's off day cutting various patterns all day tomorrow, and then we worked out Monday's agenda; we're putting in an order for CAD size patterning and grading on our pea and duffle coat (as well as the surprise third piece) and a professionally tailored sample, and we are gonna push them to have them completed by Thursday or Friday of this week. All of our fabrics are decided upon as well as the design and base pattern, so if everything goes according to plan and we like the way the stuff manifests itself the first time out, we'll show it by the end of the week.

Also making a more traditional varsity jacket again, probably ready for showing and orders by early the next week.

dizz and I now work 6 full days a week, and I work on Sundays too, so we're gonna have stuff really start pouring out soon. I am gonna start traveling a bit later on short trips to investigate viability on other stuff, I want to make some jeans and I am mainly putting my Japanese girlfriend in charge of that project, she will be inquiring with the denim type people in central Japan, seeing about the viability of TOJ denims.

 

[impolyt_one]

Man, tailors are gonna hate me though, every single one of my clothing projects takes off from where the last one ended and then I just pile on more details and ****, my mythical anorak is still waiting in the wings because it's so elaborate.

I just came up with an added step for the wool stuff too....

 

[Nil]

I know you made mention of suits awhile back, is there any plan for that in the future?

 

[aeglus]

Once you get the wool **** out, let me know and bring it during some drinks because I know wool a hell of a lot better than leather since I've been handling it since I learned to walk.

 

[impolyt_one]

I am sitting here thinking about how the whole lineup will manifest itself; right now we're featuring pieces one ore two (or three) pieces at a time, but eventually most stuff will come back all at once with updates and new additions using whatever we've learned along the way, I guess FW10. I am hoping to get S/S10 out early (not Southern Hemisphere early, but before March) and have it in bigger sets. I originally started off thinking I was making mainly American clothes, being that I am from America, but the stuff I want to do can't really be limited by something like that when the current definition of American clothes is just lots of flannel and heritage stuff. I like to see new stuff too and my real longtime interest isn't strictly clothing, but more the general idea of making tangible geometrical and architectural **** from scratch; if I wasn't doing this right now, I'd be in America making furniture, I think, so I figure I might as exercise my brain and drop that into wearable clothes. I'm not trying to be the Asian Rick Owens (although I think my personal life is going that way

) but seeing as though I have no real traditional education or notions about clothing making, my playbook is officially blank as snow and unofficially chock full of ideas, so I'll keep on doing stuff I like and I think people will like it too.

 

[realmisr]

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

Also making a more traditional varsity jacket again, probably ready for showing and orders by early the next week.


I need first dibs on the varsity

Can't wait man!

 

[Marbles29]

Man, the unwashed DR has ascended my rankings

 

[Biscotti]

finally placed my order, it's been a busy weekend, ******* up my life and all.

 

[spartanville212]

this might sound really stupid, but what can i do to place an order quickly. i tried pm'ing Impolyt but got no response. Sorry for the trouble i just really want to put in my payment and order the sweet Reversible Varsity.

Thanks

 

[mmm]

Originally Posted by spartanville212

this might sound really stupid, but what can i do to place an order quickly. i tried pm'ing Impolyt but got no response. Sorry for the trouble i just really want to put in my payment and order the sweet Reversible Varsity.

Thanks

Try the gmail account [email protected]

 

[spartanville212]

I'm really sorry if this comes off as snobbish or whatever but i've tried it twice in like two weeks. I don't mean to come off in a bad way I just want to order haha. Has anyone ordered the reversible varsity recently? If impolyt isn't making them anymore then i'll stop bothering you guys but I'm already in love with it.