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tricky

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All EP today...on this snowy day!!!

400
 

Epaulet

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Gitman Shirting

Hey guys,

Thanks for posting your feedback on the Gitman shirts. Overall, we've received a lot of positive notes and quite a few repeat MTO orders, but this was a brand new program, so we anticipated some hiccups. We ultimately want to make sure that everyone is happy and satisfied with their shirts.

So, there were two major cuttings for the shirts - Factory Finds were cut first, and MTO's were cut second. Factory finds took a long time for delivery, as that's the nature of the program. The factory offers us off-price fabrics in exchange for flexiblity on production and delivery dates. The first round of MTO shirts took a long time as well (around 7-8 weeks), but our current rounds are arriving in about 4. Any prospective MTO customers shouldn't worry about a late delivery window.

In terms of fit, both the Factory Finds shirts and the MTO shirts had some issues with sleeve length. Many of them (all of the mediums) came with sleeves that were longer than they should have been. We looked at each one and returned a bunch of them for alterations. They should have all been fixed, but my apologies if anything slipped through. If anyone out there has a shirt with sleeves that are too long, then drop me a line and we'll either take it back to have them shortened or pay for you to alter it on your side.

Regaring the sleeve diameter, we didn't see any issues with that, but, that doesn't mean it didn't happen. You guys are very familiar with our shirts so we take your feedback very seriously. If you want/need to get the sleeves tapered, then that's an easy alteration to make, and we'll be happy to work with you on the cost of that.

For other disparities (chest/shoulders being larger), this could be due to two factors. First off, Gitman was hand-cutting these early pieces, so they require a .3 - .5 inch variance on their sizing. Our MTO trousers have the same setup. When you're cutting by hand, things can get slightly off, and this isn't noticable by the majority of guys, although it might be if you're on the edge of two sizes.

The second factor is planned shrinkage. As the Factory Finds fabrics were all Gitman's in-house fabrics, they automatically calculate shrinkage into the sizing - resulting in some of them (especially liable-to-shrink fabrics like Madras and Oxford) making up larger than spec. For Made to Order shirts, the only thing that should be noticeably bigger (outside of the usual variance for production) is the TTX Oxford. But TTX shrinks a considerable amount, so you should get a good fit after a wash. Even the off the rack TTX shirts come pre-washed from Gitman.

So in summary, we want everyone to be satisfied with their purchase. If the sleeves are longer than they should be by over 0.5", then let us know and we'll get them shortened for you. If the fit feels a little big (but sleeve length is okay), then it's most likely going to be the shrinkage allowance. If it's a lot larger than that, then we'll absolutely work with you to improve the fit for you.
 

Epaulet

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My EP/Gitman MTO has the same issue, unfortunately. I was hoping to receive my first and then be able to order more, but will have to wait and see if this is normal. If it was on purpose and normal then even the minus 2 inches on the sleeves would still be too large (with the minus 1" sleeves on the current being way too big - almost seem longer than they would have been on a standard medium with no requested adjustments). I know it's already been brought up, and sorry to harp on the issue... just hoping this was an initial glitch as Gitman gets acclimated with the EP shirt patterns


My apologies - there's no reason for the sleeves to be over 0.5" too long. If you drop us an email with your details, then we'll get this fixed by Gitman directly.

Mike-

Any chance of the navy digital camo fabric making an appearance in the upcoming EPLA shorts?


Definitely! That Navy Digicam is the best.

So I washed and dried one of my new rivet chinos inside out the other day to shrink it before I got it hemmed and the blue part on the seams of the chinos fell apart. It doesn't affect the integrity of the pants but I thought it was odd that this happened after one wash prior to wearing it. Is there a better way to pre-wash your pants before getting them hemmed? I usually turn my clothes inside out to keep my clothes newer but I would not like the same thing to happen to my two other chinos. Also not sure how many times or if I need to wash and dry it on hot to get the length right for hemming. Thanks.


Ah, sorry to hear that. Although this isn't common, it shouldn't affect the overall durability of the trouser at all.

Typically what happens is that the sewing operator misses a stitch or two in the center of the fabric taping. If a little bit of the taping isn't sewn down, then the action of the washing machine can get under it and shred it from beneath. They're an ornamental detail, so this shouldn't affect the lockstitched main seam beneath it. If you ever have an issue with the construction, then let us know and we can have it repaired or compensate you to have it fixed locally.

In terms of the hemming, I find that one wash is typically enough, especially if you try it on right after the wash. Any cotton pant or jean contracts after a wash. They'll usually gain a half inch just by you wearing them for an hour. This half inch gain kind of balances out any small future shrinkage that might happen with subsequent washes, if that makes sense.

Anyone know if the navy hopsack blazer MTO will ever come back? I didn't realize it was a limited time thing and then it disappeared...


I'm pretty sure it'll be back. Mike mentioned the limited stock of hopsack right now or something but that it'll come back and that the hopsacks are slightly increasing in price as well? It's somewhere in this thread.


Yes, sorry - we'll put this back online shortly, just waiting for Southwick to get the fabric back in stock. It's not really limited, it's just that this is our best-selling MTO jacket, and we can't guarantee the normal turnaround until the fabric is back on-hand.

Mike, I'm looking for some true dark navy chinos in size 28. Any plans for MTO Galey & Lord twill navy rivets? How does the navy khaki twill trouser compare?


Yes absolutely, we're going to build that out this week
 

aldenfan

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Gitman Shirting

Hey guys,

Thanks for posting your feedback on the Gitman shirts. Overall, we've received a lot of positive notes and quite a few repeat MTO orders, but this was a brand new program, so we anticipated some hiccups. We ultimately want to make sure that everyone is happy and satisfied with their shirts.

So, there were two major cuttings for the shirts - Factory Finds were cut first, and MTO's were cut second. Factory finds took a long time for delivery, as that's the nature of the program. The factory offers us off-price fabrics in exchange for flexiblity on production and delivery dates. The first round of MTO shirts took a long time as well (around 7-8 weeks), but our current rounds are arriving in about 4. Any prospective MTO customers shouldn't worry about a late delivery window.

In terms of fit, both the Factory Finds shirts and the MTO shirts had some issues with sleeve length. Many of them (all of the mediums) came with sleeves that were longer than they should have been. We looked at each one and returned a bunch of them for alterations. They should have all been fixed, but my apologies if anything slipped through. If anyone out there has a shirt with sleeves that are too long, then drop me a line and we'll either take it back to have them shortened or pay for you to alter it on your side.

Regaring the sleeve diameter, we didn't see any issues with that, but, that doesn't mean it didn't happen. You guys are very familiar with our shirts so we take your feedback very seriously. If you want/need to get the sleeves tapered, then that's an easy alteration to make, and we'll be happy to work with you on the cost of that.

For other disparities (chest/shoulders being larger), this could be due to two factors. First off, Gitman was hand-cutting these early pieces, so they require a .3 - .5 inch variance on their sizing. Our MTO trousers have the same setup. When you're cutting by hand, things can get slightly off, and this isn't noticable by the majority of guys, although it might be if you're on the edge of two sizes.

The second factor is planned shrinkage. As the Factory Finds fabrics were all Gitman's in-house fabrics, they automatically calculate shrinkage into the sizing - resulting in some of them (especially liable-to-shrink fabrics like Madras and Oxford) making up larger than spec. For Made to Order shirts, the only thing that should be noticeably bigger (outside of the usual variance for production) is the TTX Oxford. But TTX shrinks a considerable amount, so you should get a good fit after a wash. Even the off the rack TTX shirts come pre-washed from Gitman.

So in summary, we want everyone to be satisfied with their purchase. If the sleeves are longer than they should be by over 0.5", then let us know and we'll get them shortened for you. If the fit feels a little big (but sleeve length is okay), then it's most likely going to be the shrinkage allowance. If it's a lot larger than that, then we'll absolutely work with you to improve the fit for you.
 

aldenfan

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Yes, sorry - we'll put this back online shortly, just waiting for Southwick to get the fabric back in stock. It's not really limited, it's just that this is our best-selling MTO jacket, and we can't guarantee the normal turnaround until the fabric is back on-hand.
Yes absolutely, we're going to build that out this week

Thanks, I'm looking forward to ordering one in the future. My first jacket with epaulet was the FF Harris tweed that just arrived. Fit is pretty much spot on from what I can tell and the construction and quality beats any other tweed jackets I have ever purchased. Looking forward to being able to order more jackets in the future.
 

malwear

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Jul 4, 2011
Messages
203
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Gitman Shirting

Hey guys,

Thanks for posting your feedback on the Gitman shirts. Overall, we've received a lot of positive notes and quite a few repeat MTO orders, but this was a brand new program, so we anticipated some hiccups. We ultimately want to make sure that everyone is happy and satisfied with their shirts.

So, there were two major cuttings for the shirts - Factory Finds were cut first, and MTO's were cut second. Factory finds took a long time for delivery, as that's the nature of the program. The factory offers us off-price fabrics in exchange for flexiblity on production and delivery dates. The first round of MTO shirts took a long time as well (around 7-8 weeks), but our current rounds are arriving in about 4. Any prospective MTO customers shouldn't worry about a late delivery window.

In terms of fit, both the Factory Finds shirts and the MTO shirts had some issues with sleeve length. Many of them (all of the mediums) came with sleeves that were longer than they should have been. We looked at each one and returned a bunch of them for alterations. They should have all been fixed, but my apologies if anything slipped through. If anyone out there has a shirt with sleeves that are too long, then drop me a line and we'll either take it back to have them shortened or pay for you to alter it on your side.

Regaring the sleeve diameter, we didn't see any issues with that, but, that doesn't mean it didn't happen. You guys are very familiar with our shirts so we take your feedback very seriously. If you want/need to get the sleeves tapered, then that's an easy alteration to make, and we'll be happy to work with you on the cost of that.

For other disparities (chest/shoulders being larger), this could be due to two factors. First off, Gitman was hand-cutting these early pieces, so they require a .3 - .5 inch variance on their sizing. Our MTO trousers have the same setup. When you're cutting by hand, things can get slightly off, and this isn't noticable by the majority of guys, although it might be if you're on the edge of two sizes.

The second factor is planned shrinkage. As the Factory Finds fabrics were all Gitman's in-house fabrics, they automatically calculate shrinkage into the sizing - resulting in some of them (especially liable-to-shrink fabrics like Madras and Oxford) making up larger than spec. For Made to Order shirts, the only thing that should be noticeably bigger (outside of the usual variance for production) is the TTX Oxford. But TTX shrinks a considerable amount, so you should get a good fit after a wash. Even the off the rack TTX shirts come pre-washed from Gitman.

So in summary, we want everyone to be satisfied with their purchase. If the sleeves are longer than they should be by over 0.5", then let us know and we'll get them shortened for you. If the fit feels a little big (but sleeve length is okay), then it's most likely going to be the shrinkage allowance. If it's a lot larger than that, then we'll absolutely work with you to improve the fit for you.

I apologize, I know this has been asked before, but I'm still not clear on it. When should we expect all the FF shirts to be delivered? Your post makes it sound like they have all been fixed by now.
 

edubs01

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Mike-
Is the Navy Hopsack completely tapped out? Thought you said you still have some left for a few units.
 

Dbear

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I received the FF shirts today, and after trying them on I would say I'm very happy with the fit. The arms might indeed be a bit bigger than the previous Epaulet shirts, but I'm not certain (did not measure) and they do not bother me as-is. The shoulders even seem to be a little bit narrower, which works great for me as the standard EP shirts in Large usually have shoulders slightly wider than ideal for me. So I won't have to "fry" them in the dryer after all, haha!

I'm very happy to see the Ashland MOP buttons on these shirts. Those are some of my favorite shirt buttons out there.

Shirts I got:

Baby blue flecked (flecks are difficult/impossible to see in my picture)


Gauzy neutral buffalo check


Are you a medium by chance? Just wondering if mediums received their shirts yet. I think I got that gauzy buffalo check...not sure tho, it's been a long time.

Anyways, things have changed where I'm most likely going to put them on B&S when I receive them.
 

MacktasticGDogg

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Are you a medium by chance?  Just wondering if mediums received their shirts yet.  I think I got that gauzy buffalo check...not sure tho, it's been a long time.

Anyways, things have changed where I'm most likely going to put them on B&S when I receive them.  

I'm a large. From Mike's post today, it appears that mediums haven't been shipped yet.
 

nathanl

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Mike-
Is the Navy Hopsack completely tapped out? Thought you said you still have some left for a few units.

He commented on this a few posts up - the fabric is available, it's just a logistics issue of getting it available to Southwick so they can meet the delivery timeframe.
 

Epaulet

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Mike-
Is the Navy Hopsack completely tapped out? Thought you said you still have some left for a few units.


He commented on this a few posts up - the fabric is available, it's just a logistics issue of getting it available to Southwick so they can meet the delivery timeframe.


It might be - if you want to place an order now then drop us an email. The last that I heard they had enough to do a few units, but it's not exclusively our fabric. But if anyone is ready to order now, then we can check and do it for you if there still is cloth. Otherwise, I believe the big restock is planned for end of May.

Mike is the Santa Monica store open today? I called the store, no answer.


It will be after 2PM. Sorry about that - running around like crazy with this being the last week, so our opening schedule will be a little unpredictable.
 

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