Clarification on 'the pinch test'

Larson McCord · Sep 12, 2010

If you pinch the bottom under the last button on the front and it's canvassed there does that always mean that it's fully canvassed? That is the only place I ever check.

And where do you pinch to check half canvassed?

bleachboy · Sep 12, 2010

I have always wondered... if you can't tell if a jacket is canvassed or not by looking at it, why does it matter?

Larson McCord · Sep 12, 2010

Originally Posted by bleachboy

I have always wondered... if you can't tell if a jacket is canvassed or not by looking at it, why does it matter?

Lots of things, canvassed jackets fit better and the jacket will mold to your body better over time. There is more 'effort' in making canvassed suits and it is typically a sign of a more well constructed garment.

bleachboy · Sep 12, 2010

Originally Posted by Larson McCord

Lots of things, canvassed jackets fit better and the jacket will mold to your body better over time. There is more 'effort' in making canvassed suits and it is typically a sign of a more well constructed garment.

Thanks!

Maccimus · Sep 12, 2010

Originally Posted by Larson McCord

If you pinch the bottom under the last button on the front and it's canvassed there does that always mean that it's fully canvassed?
Negative. You can have a jacket both "fully-canvassed" and fused. I experienced it once and there is another example (tested by Jefferyd I remember) on this forum. I do believe by using fusibles, the difficulty of basting canvass to the front piece can be reduced considerably.

phxlawstudent · Sep 13, 2010

Originally Posted by Larson McCord

If you pinch the bottom under the last button on the front and it's canvassed there does that always mean that it's fully canvassed? That is the only place I ever check.

And where do you pinch to check half canvassed?

Well, your test will probably net you a few false positives, so its not perfect. As is said above, some higher end fused suits have both fusing and a free floating piece. So you also have to test the thickness of the fabric you've just separated from the middle piece.

Ideally you would pinch at least two areas to make sure. But, I suppose pinching one area is good enough if you don't care about false positives or negatives.

To tell if a suit is half canvassed, you pinch both top and bottom. The top is free floating, the bottom is not. Where exactly the line is depends on the manufacture.

Maccimus · Sep 13, 2010

Originally Posted by phxlawstudent

Well, your test will probably net you a few false positives, so its not perfect. As is said above, some higher end fused suits have both fusing and a free floating piece. So you also have to test the thickness of the fabric you've just separated from the middle piece.

Ideally you would pinch at least two areas to make sure. But, I suppose pinching one area is good enough if you don't care about false positives or negatives.

To tell if a suit is half canvassed, you pinch both top and bottom. The top is free floating, the bottom is not. Where exactly the line is depends on the manufacture.
Truely. Thickness of the front part is ultimate indicator while floating canvass is not.

MTLGuy · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by phxlawstudent

Well, your test will probably net you a few false positives, so its not perfect. As is said above, some higher end fused suits have both fusing and a free floating piece. So you also have to test the thickness of the fabric you've just separated from the middle piece.

Ideally you would pinch at least two areas to make sure. But, I suppose pinching one area is good enough if you don't care about false positives or negatives.

To tell if a suit is half canvassed, you pinch both top and bottom. The top is free floating, the bottom is not. Where exactly the line is depends on the manufacture.

When you do the pinch test above the chest pocket how do you account for the chest piece that is in all suits? i.e. I have done the pinch test above the chest pocket on some jackets that I am pretty sure would be fused but I can separate the front fabric and feel a "free floating" thick piece, which I assume is the chest piece.

So what exactly should the pinch test reveal? An additional layer apart from the front wool and the thick chest piece??

pebblegrain · Dec 17, 2010

You should get more familiar with what unbacked, plain suiting cloth feels like. Feel the pants where there is no lining. it is very thin. Compare to the jacket. If the front of the jacket doesn't feel like this, obviously it means something is stuck to the back of it.

MTLGuy · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by pebblegrain

You should get more familiar with what unbacked, plain suiting cloth feels like. Feel the pants where there is no lining. it is very thin. Compare to the jacket. If the front of the jacket doesn't feel like this, obviously it means something is stuck to the back of it.

Fair enough. I did that too. And I think I felt that it was thicker.

I was just wondering how one goes about feeling the actual canvassing (i.e. rather than just the absence of fusing) around the area where there is also the chest piece.

MTLGuy · Jan 3, 2011

Anyone? I consider myself a pretty smart guy but for some reason I am still struggling with this... i.e. detecting canvassing above the chest pocket.

Clarification on 'the pinch test'

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