Darting a RLBL dress shirt?

sho'nuff · Sep 22, 2009

dude, rlbl shirts are slim enough, do you want them to look literally like a triangle silhouette?

ramuman · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

dude, rlbl shirts are slim enough, do you want them to look literally like a triangle silhouette?

No, I want them to fit my body. If I have an 8" or 9" drop and the shirt doesn't follow that, what should I do with it?

CTGuy · Sep 22, 2009

I have seen some shirts with front darts and I really do not like that look. Rear darts don't really bother me if the shirt is solid colored, but I saw a guy wearing a patterned sport shirt with rear darts on the T the other weekend and I couldn't help thinking how feminine the shirt looked.

sho'nuff · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by ramuman

No, I want them to fit my body. If I have an 8" or 9" drop and the shirt doesn't follow that, what should I do with it?

i dont think a shirt has to follow your line exactly or even need to be as tapered as your body (congratulations to you btw) i have seen many a guy wear a dress shirt not billowy but standard classic fits (not slim) where it still looks actually pretty good. i am seeing more and more the classic fit (less waist suppression) being more of a better look than the ultra slim or tapered /too tailored look in men's clothing.
i wouldnt go altering a shirt that needs to be taken in more than 2 inches , i would go with a more made to measure shirt.
i recommend going to kent wang, i have seen a couple of his dress shirts on a guy here who works on occasion with me, the dress shirt is made very well. the fit is absolutely a hit. only 100 bux i think. kent wang is an affililate here

ramuman · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

i dont think a shirt has to follow your line exactly or even need to be as tapered as your body (congratulations to you btw) i have seen many a guy wear a dress shirt not billowy but standard classic fits (not slim) where it still looks actually pretty good. i am seeing more and more the classic fit (less waist suppression) being more of a better look than the ultra slim or tapered /too tailored look in men's clothing.
i wouldnt go altering a shirt that needs to be taken in more than 2 inches , i would go with a more made to measure shirt.
i recommend going to kent wang, i have seen a couple of his dress shirts on a guy here who works on occasion with me, the dress shirt is made very well. the fit is absolutely a hit. only 100 bux i think. kent wang is an affililate here

I think the main problem is I don't like excess fabric around my waist and lower back. That gives an unclean look when the shirt is tucked in.

I have considered Kent Wang shirts as well as the online MTM guys, but judging from the pics I've seen posted, the first try rarely nails it. Before that I might try a local MTM or bespoke shirt though.

Corniche · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by jamesbond

Its a toss up for me, darts can work fine if the shirt fits pretty well and it just the swall of the back thats too baggey. If the whole shirt, arm holes, sleeves, etc. are too baggey then go for the whole thing being taken apart. $40 is actually a pretty standard price for this alteration. I know tailors that won't even do it because its such a pain **********. I would definitely want a competent tailor doing such a job. BTW, I have had great success with this type of alteration. Some of the shirts have come back fitting much better then my bespoke shirts. Just don't go too tight in the chest area or you will regret it. Good luck.
I got the same feeling. I guess it's perhaps after being altered. the actual shoulder sewn looks below the actual shoulder bone and that makes you look stronger, as " he-man toys

I have realiced that some Versace or designers shirts already have that sewn placed below .

sho'nuff · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by ramuman

I think the main problem is I don't like excess fabric around my waist and lower back. That gives an unclean look when the shirt is tucked in.

I have considered Kent Wang shirts as well as the online MTM guys, but judging from the pics I've seen posted, the first try rarely nails it. Before that I might try a local MTM or bespoke shirt though.

i do remember the guy saying it was his first kent wang shirt. and i dont know if it was an anomaly but he certainly nailed it.
the shirt absolutely had no excess fabric or folding anywhere around his waist when tucked into his pant. it draped seamlessly from his shoulders to underarm to waist to tuck in. it was such a sweet shirt that day i emailed kent wang for a shirt or info.
havent received a word as of yet. that was like 2 months ago.

ramuman · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

i do remember the guy saying it was his first kent wang shirt. and i dont know if it was an anomaly but he certainly nailed it. the shirt absolutely had no excess fabric or folding anywhere around his waist when tucked into his pant. it draped seamlessly from his shoulders to underarm to waist to tuck in. it was such a sweet shirt that day i emailed kent wang for a shirt or info. havent received a word as of yet. that was like 2 months ago.
I didn't think Kent Wang did MTM shirts. Does he? In any case, my first MTM shirt would likely be a local job.

hitokiri8 · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by ranker

If RLBL doesn't fit you perfectly OTR, buy RLPL and get it taken in from the sides. You'll end up with a better shirt at the same cost. It's an expensive lesson I learned as I now have many RLBL shirts I don't wear.

If you're a 15.5 and want to unload those expensive lessons feel free to hit me up.

hendrix · Sep 22, 2009

I've been thinking about getting some darts put on my shirt. I've already had them taken in at the sides so they fit very nicely, but there's still a little of billowing at the small of my back. it's weird, only at the small of my back, fits well across the chest and stomach.

What i was considering was asking the tailor to put in a single, centred inverted pleat starting at the waist running down. Is this possible? anyone else have any ideas?

SkinnyGoomba · Sep 22, 2009

darts will fix that.

Just fair warning, have the darts put in for sharp, but dont take the sides in too much. You'll wind up with a shirt that fits very tightly across the waist when you are seated.

My darted shirts look great while standing, and terrible while sitting.

Side pleats and a tailor that knows what they're doing and you'll have a shirt that fits very nicely. A hair too snug and you'll never wear it.

ramuman · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

darts will fix that.

Just fair warning, have the darts put in for sharp, but dont take the sides in too much. You'll wind up with a shirt that fits very tightly across the waist when you are seated.

My darted shirts look great while standing, and terrible while sitting.

Side pleats and a tailor that knows what they're doing and you'll have a shirt that fits very nicely. A hair too snug and you'll never wear it.

So in my case would you suggest no darts and having it taken in at the side?

SkinnyGoomba · Sep 22, 2009

Darts, i think they're a great way to add shape without making a shirt too tight. Just insist that they're not too long or too extreme.

Recoil · Sep 22, 2009

I've altered three of my BL shirts, the ones I wear under suits, not ones I wear casually without a jacket. In the cases where I had them altered, I just have them close the pleats all the way down and it makes a nice shape. I personally don't mind the look but for some reason darts seem to have a bad rap on SF. I personally hate the look of a single stitch along the side of the shirt and long the sleeve once they have been taken apart. Unless you guys are having the tailor put box pleats back into your shirts?? Which I highly doubt. This gives the shirt a cheap look to me.

jamesbond · Sep 22, 2009

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

i dont think a shirt has to follow your line exactly or even need to be as tapered as your body (congratulations to you btw) i have seen many a guy wear a dress shirt not billowy but standard classic fits (not slim) where it still looks actually pretty good. i am seeing more and more the classic fit (less waist suppression) being more of a better look than the ultra slim or tapered /too tailored look in men's clothing.
i wouldnt go altering a shirt that needs to be taken in more than 2 inches , i would go with a more made to measure shirt.
i recommend going to kent wang, i have seen a couple of his dress shirts on a guy here who works on occasion with me, the dress shirt is made very well. the fit is absolutely a hit. only 100 bux i think. kent wang is an affililate here

I have received better results from having shirts altered in this manner then some of my high end MTM shirts from T&A, etc. and at much less the cost. Its definitely worth it compared to mtm.

Originally Posted by LVoer

I've altered three of my BL shirts, the ones I wear under suits, not ones I wear casually without a jacket. In the cases where I had them altered, I just have them close the pleats all the way down and it makes a nice shape. I personally don't mind the look but for some reason darts seem to have a bad rap on SF. I personally hate the look of a single stitch along the side of the shirt and long the sleeve once they have been taken apart. Unless you guys are having the tailor put box pleats back into your shirts?? Which I highly doubt. This gives the shirt a cheap look to me.

My tailor removes the side pleats alltogether. I guess since the entire shirt is pulled apart this is somewhat easy to do? Gives the shirt a very clean look.

I'll try and post pics of one of my RLPL shirts altered in this manner, allthough my camera skills suck.

Darting a RLBL dress shirt?

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